[Mikie13]

No that won't work, sorry. Those AP's are designed for specific model years.

Interesting, things must have changed then. The manual for the AP Sub-002 I bought for my 2007 STI said it worked for all 2.5L Turbo Impreza models, including 04-07 STIs, and 06-07 WRXs. Then again, that was 3 years ago.

 

[wvh187]

Alright so i bought the AP it worked fine. I used it for about a week or so i was not getting the boost levels i was expecting maxed at 16psi. That was without a tune since i had it for a week. I sold it back to the kid i bought it from cause he thought he was going to go open source but the tuner told him he needed an AP. So i just sold it back to him. But with that said i really thought id see alot more out of stage 2.

So i am not leaning back towards doing a turbo upgrade im pretty set on it. I will be getting another AP and right now i will be building a mod list of all the components that i plan to upgrade and install with a tune.

Im looking at a 20g turbo i have been looking thru alot of threads for a while and cant seem to find a solid list of builds for this setup,most conversations seem to turn into an argument.

So i am looking at KEEPING my TMIC and maybe upgrading to a bigger one if needed. I do not want a front mount inter-cooler at this time. i am not looking to destroy my car i will be doing a decent build to yield 350-375whp.


2004 Subaru sti

Cobb AP with tune
Better injectors - Which?
Walbro fuel pump
Bigger TMIC - If needed
20g Turbo
TBE - Have already


Now with those mods with a good conservative tune that should do me pretty well. I do think im missing something but cannot remember so does anyone have any info? or thoughts? Lets start this convo so i can get some results?

 

[jd92677]

With those mods, forget the AP, you're just throwing money away. Go with an opensource tune. With injectors, usually the bigger, the better. You can go overkill with injectors but it won't hurt any if you're tuned properly, I would say 750CC is a good size but you could go larger if you wanted. At the point you'd be at with those mods, you may want to re-think the FMIC. In my opinion, it would do you good to go front mount.

 

[wvh187]

I was thinkin of 650-750cc injectors.

As far as the FMIC i just dont want to have to fabricate i would like to keep to stock look as im going for the sleeper look. I have been reading that you can run a TMIC but you just cannot get as much HP out of it. Since the turbo is not a huge turbo i would think that TMIC should be able to handle it.

Im not really that familiar with Open source tuning i liked the idea of being able to change maps and being conservative at times. So what are the differences between open source and AP?

I really feel like i need to learn about this more but am not finding results its very difficult to sift through so many threads its so time consuming.

 

[EJ257]

2004 Subaru sti

Cobb AP with tune
Better injectors - Which?
Walbro fuel pump
Bigger TMIC - If needed
20g Turbo
TBE - Have already

20G flows enough air to get you over the 400bhp mark. Add an intake to the list. Having a turbo inlet available during the install will be worth it if your OE tears during the turbo swap (somewhat common). If you need to recoup cash and your OE is fine, you can sell the aftermarket one for a slight hit.

I was thinkin of 650-750cc injectors.

650cc will not be enough. 740cc/850cc injectors if going with a pump gas tune, larger if your area has E85 and may use that in the future.

As far as the FMIC i just dont want to have to fabricate i would like to keep to stock look as im going for the sleeper look. I have been reading that you can run a TMIC but you just cannot get as much HP out of it. Since the turbo is not a huge turbo i would think that TMIC should be able to handle it.

TMIC would be fine, but a FMIC will get more power

Im not really that familiar with Open source tuning i liked the idea of being able to change maps and being conservative at times. So what are the differences between open source and AP?

What does your tuner use? If they tune OpenECU, it would be more cost-effective to go that route. If you feel like changing maps, you can pick up a tactrix cable and laptop (if you don't have one) for cheaper than you can buy an AP.

 

[wvh187]

Okay i will put my list together and see what happens i guess.

Okay so if i don't buy a Cobb AP and i run with the open source is my car always running (tuned) or is there a way i can run it to be good for economy driving? get what i mean. OR is it getting the car tuned and it runs better then stock and get good mileage with the tune and that's how its always going to be?


If you get the tactrix cable how do you use that system. Is is user friendly or is that an option that a tuner does?


I will prob get 740cc i really dont plan on doing much more after these mods.

I would imaging they have e85 somewhere but i do not wanted to be limited to where i purchase gas. what are the pros and cons of E85?


As far as the intake last time i went to the tuner he told me that the stock Intake is better then most intakes as its the forced air rather then having an intake under the hood?

I know im asking alot of Questions im getting some great answers and i really appreciate it guys!

 

[wvh187]

1 more thing i was just talking to a person that i bought my AP from and he had a pretty good setup on his WRX he sold that Cobb AP so he could get an open-source tune but the tuner told him he needed his Cobb AP to get a tune is that because of the car or is that the tuner.

He has an 07 wrx with vf39 and some other mods they said that open source was not good on this particular year and model?

with that being said your saying that i dont need a cobb ap to get an open source tune?

 

[jd92677]

Okay i will put my list together and see what happens i guess.

Okay so if i don't buy a Cobb AP and i run with the open source is my car always running (tuned) or is there a way i can run it to be good for economy driving? get what i mean. OR is it getting the car tuned and it runs better then stock and get good mileage with the tune and that's how its always going to be?


If you get the tactrix cable how do you use that system. Is is user friendly or is that an option that a tuner does?


I will prob get 740cc i really dont plan on doing much more after these mods.

I would imaging they have e85 somewhere but i do not wanted to be limited to where i purchase gas. what are the pros and cons of E85?


As far as the intake last time i went to the tuner he told me that the stock Intake is better then most intakes as its the forced air rather then having an intake under the hood?

I know im asking alot of Questions im getting some great answers and i really appreciate it guys!

In regards to the AP, the AP economy mode won't work with your mods. The Tatrix cable is just a means of connecting a laptop to your car's ECU, you can have mulitiple maps loaded to a laptop and switch between them if you wanted. To build a map is a different story. A good intake, if tuned for, is better than a stock intake, especially with a larger turbo.

1 more thing i was just talking to a person that i bought my AP from and he had a pretty good setup on his WRX he sold that Cobb AP so he could get an open-source tune but the tuner told him he needed his Cobb AP to get a tune is that because of the car or is that the tuner.

He has an 07 wrx with vf39 and some other mods they said that open source was not good on this particular year and model?

with that being said your saying that i dont need a cobb ap to get an open source tune?

The tuner is why he would need the AP, not the car. Don't know why he would say an opensource is not good for his car, completely untrue. You don't need an AP to have your car tuned, the AP is just a means of flashing your ECU, just like a tatrix cable

 

[EJ257]

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/tunin...134322320-opensource-tuning-your-questions-answered-here-romraider-tactrix.html

 

[wvh187]

Okay thanks for the reply i will read up on that.

Also what are thoughts on blouch td06 20g turbo with 8cm2 is that the best 20g turbo for your buck?
im still trying to find info about turbos and all but i think im pretty set on a 20g so if you have any info that helps i would greatly appreciate it.


I will look into a new intake i will be buying everything and installing it at once i think that would be the best way is just to get it over with and getting a tune.

I am trying to talk to the tuner or company that will be doing that tune. Im going to ask them about the set up I'm going to attempt and see what they recommend as well.


As for the open source tune it seems like your correct and it will be the best bang for your buck. so i will also ask them about that.

Thanks for your reply

 

[wvh187]

Hello all again ... I need some advice once again.... after several weeks of researching my build i am stuck... i was set on putting a 20g-xt turbo in my 2004 sti with all the mods to support it.

After talking with a couple tuners due to my milage its recomended to refresh/rebuild my engine first. So with that being said i am building the block i currently have it torn down to just the block will prob pull the heads later on today to check things out. I need some advice on what pistons and rods to run. 1 tuner says stock rods are good and other says get some better ones. I would also like to put cams on the car while its apart and being rebuilt. My plans are to rebuild the engine then drive it for a little bit to break it in then return to upgrading the turbo...

So with rebuilding the block i plan on cosworth or JE pistons those are the 2 recomended by tuners. what are your thoughts?

If i put cams (stage 2) 272's i believe what will need to be done for them to fit? any machine work? and will i need headers?

Im going to delete the TGV's and get an 11mm oil pump.

SO Since im building the block i might as well get a bigger and better turbo so my question is what turbo would anyone recomend to get to the 450-500whp range i want my car to be dependable still - it will be my weekend warrior- so does that sound resonable or am i just dreaming?

So my question is with a block with forged pistons/rods?/tgv delete/3in inlet/cams/refreshed heads/timing belt/water pump/oil pump/new pulleys is that enough for a build to withstand stand that much power and have the car run safe for a while?

Any info would be great i would like to get my car out on the road again asap its getting depressing seeing it sit day after day

I am also trying to find a good machinest in the PHX area not sure who to trust does anyone know anyone around here that specializes in subys?

 

[EJ257]

So with rebuilding the block i plan on cosworth or JE pistons those are the 2 recomended by tuners. what are your thoughts?

Use what they tell you to.

If i put cams (stage 2) 272's i believe what will need to be done for them to fit? any machine work? and will i need headers?

Do headwork. Your turbo will have your powerband high in the RPM range, and you want the motor to move air.

You'll want headers for your build (though, that's part of the exhaust, so I'm not sure why you grouped this with the headwork).

SO Since im building the block i might as well get a bigger and better turbo so my question is what turbo would anyone recomend to get to the 450-500whp range i want my car to be dependable still - it will be my weekend warrior- so does that sound resonable or am i just dreaming?

You want to be going rotated; GT35R should get you there. The shop doing the work knows their dyno/work best, so they'll be able to give you the most accurate answer.

So my question is with a block with forged pistons/rods?/tgv delete/3in inlet/cams/refreshed heads/timing belt/water pump/oil pump/new pulleys is that enough for a build to withstand stand that much power and have the car run safe for a while?

Depends on the build, tune, and fuel.

If I was in your shoes and wanted a good amount of power and reliability, I'd ask for a conservative meth tune since your gas sucks. The meth will help prevent knock, which is killer on our motors.

 

[Mikie13]

You'll want headers for your build (though, that's part of the exhaust, so I'm not sure why you grouped this with the headwork).

Headwork...Headers...all have head in it...makes sense to me

 

[wvh187]

Just thought i'd throw headers in there cause it would be the only thing missing. Im just trying to focus on the engine build so i can get the car going. Then worry about the turbo build.


Just trying to figure out what direction to go there are so many options..

 

[Mikie13]

Just thought i'd throw headers in there cause it would be the only thing missing. Im just trying to focus on the engine build so i can get the car going. Then worry about the turbo build.


Just trying to figure out what direction to go there are so many options..

As EJ above mentioned above, if you are looking for that power goal, you will want headers, and for a larger turbo, ultimately EL Headers. You will lose the boxer rumble though by going to ELs.

 

[EJ257]

As EJ above mentioned above, if you are looking for that power goal, you will want headers, and for a larger turbo, ultimately EL Headers. You will lose the boxer rumble though by going to ELs.

If you're going to spend the money on headers, may as well buy the more efficient ELH anyway, even if you do lose the rumble.

I like the way ELH'd Subarus sound anyway...

 

[farmerjonbmx]

I have another option (much better IMO)

I HAD 405whp with 350wtq and...... my current set up with higher tq is much faster

I currently have 400wtq and only 365whp with the stock turbo
it was a simpler and much less expensive then the gt30 set up for 400whp as well

BIG TMIC
BIG injectors
downpipe
fuel pump
BIG exhaust
access port
e85 tune

I freaking love it my car is all kinds of pissed off fast

 

[teflon_jones]

365 WHP/400 WTQ with the stock turbo? On what block? What kind of dyno was that measured on?

What mods did you have to get the previous numbers?

 

[farmerjonbmx]

dyno

here is the 19.5 psi e85 dyno

i cant find the 20.5 psi dyno.
but at 20 psi its 365wtq/403?wtq (4...0... something)
Ill keep looking and add it to this post when I find it.

here is the baseline dyno with an accessport and 17psi 92 octane tune

its a mustang Dyno, from what I understand they read very accurately if not on the conservative side

tock block and stock turbo with the listed mods,
The car has the Subaru SPT exhaust 2.5 inch. An aftermarket 3" may even do better.

e85 is the ticket.... best Mod I have made on any vehicle.
Of course its never enough.
My next step is a gt30/FMIC on e85.... (with built motor, clutch and flywheel) I cant wait : )
I'll se how long the 5 spd lasts b4 doing the 6 speed swap

my old set up with 400whp was on my 06 legacy GT
i wasnt pushing it that hard on 92 octane with the stock block (blew motor 1 with a gt35 on stock internals)
gt30
fmic
perrin headers
cosworth heads
greddy sp2 cat back exhaust
intake
UTEC EM
perrin dp/up
Turbo Xcess digital boost controller

 

[teflon_jones]

Mustang dynos read low which is why I was wondering what dyno you got measured on. I know e85 gives you better numbers, but those are really high with the stock turbo.

With a stock turbo, going to a 3" catback and those numbers should give you a little better performance. At about 400 BHP you start to get benefits from the larger piping.

I'll won't be going to e85 any time soon. Barely anybody sells it here around Denver, and I'm too far from Denver to make it worth it. I have to drive 20 minutes from my house just to get gas period.