Check out THIS LINK. Also you may want to explore the links in my signature too.

 

UP is catless. Is the TBE on it already???? You should have it flashed to stage 2 at the same time as having the downpipe on, otherwise you may not be running optimally.

You will need nothing short of an upgraded larger turbo, intercooler, supporting fuel system mods, etc.

You gotta do a lotta research and spend a lotta money for 400hp.

 

how to get 400hp?

$$$$$$$$$$$$$

The question begs an answer though.. why does one need that much snot?

 

BTW OP are looking to be in around 400hp or 400Whp

 

Yeah...cause 400hp is alot more easily attainable then 400whp! Heck, I think I am close to 400 hp.....maybe...look at my mods.

 

if you have a TBE and no tune, you're car might not make it to 400 hp...

 

the car had the TBE when i got it.

as for why do i want 400hp why not... its my weekend car and want to beef her up a bit. AND i have a couple friends that are getting pretty serious with their hondas and i dont really plan on letting them getting ahead...

it would be nice to have 400whp but i know thats a big number to obtain so prob just 400hp.

i know after the AP stage 2 i will be around 350 but im looking for that extra 50.

and i am open to upgrading the turbo but that is a big step and i really dont want the FMIC due to i want my car to remain stock looking.

 

the car had the TBE when i got it.

as for why do i want 400hp why not... its my weekend car and want to beef her up a bit. AND i have a couple friends that are getting pretty serious with their hondas and i dont really plan on letting them getting ahead...

it would be nice to have 400whp but i know thats a big number to obtain so prob just 400hp.

i know after the AP stage 2 i will be around 350 but im looking for that extra 50.

and i am open to upgrading the turbo but that is a big step and i really dont want the FMIC due to i want my car to remain stock looking.

You mean 400 hp right? Not 400 whp.

 

Shoot for 300whp to start. That might be plenty. It's all too easy to dream in numbers.

 

Peak numbers are so important. What dyno would you like your numbers on?

 

Im trying to find a used AP on here i bought one for my wrx a while back just waiting for a deal to come up.

ya i argee i have to start at the bottom and work my way up.


as for dyno what do you mean im not that familiar with dyno?

 

as for dyno what do you mean im not that familiar with dyno?

Dynamometer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

They all read differently, some higher than others. What makes 400whp on one dyno will make 350 on another.

If you tell us the dyno you're looking to hit your power goals with, we can likely tell you what you'll need to reach them.

 

okay i get ya. i went to this tuner once to get my wrx tuned but i had something wrong with my ecu so it did not go thru but i cant remember what it was.

and yes i would be fine with 400hp not 400whp.

 

Don't forget the suspention and drivetrain mods to renforce your new found power safley....

 

will do i am just shopping around tryin to get some pointers.

 

Hey does anyone know if a COBB AP from a 2007 STI will work for 2004 it shows that they are the same part number just want to make sure b4 i buy it? AP-SUB-002?

 

Yes that should work.

 

Hey does anyone know if a COBB AP from a 2007 STI will work for 2004 it shows that they are the same part number just want to make sure b4 i buy it? AP-SUB-002?

CobbTuning.com - Contact Info

 

Alright so i bought the AP it worked fine. I used it for about a week or so i was not getting the boost levels i was expecting maxed at 16psi. That was without a tune since i had it for a week. I sold it back to the kid i bought it from cause he thought he was going to go open source but the tuner told him he needed an AP. So i just sold it back to him. But with that said i really thought id see alot more out of stage 2.

So i am not leaning back towards doing a turbo upgrade im pretty set on it. I will be getting another AP and right now i will be building a mod list of all the components that i plan to upgrade and install with a tune.

Im looking at a 20g turbo i have been looking thru alot of threads for a while and cant seem to find a solid list of builds for this setup,most conversations seem to turn into an argument.

So i am looking at KEEPING my TMIC and maybe upgrading to a bigger one if needed. I do not want a front mount inter-cooler at this time. i am not looking to destroy my car i will be doing a decent build to yield 350-375whp.


2004 Subaru sti

Cobb AP with tune
Better injectors - Which?
Walbro fuel pump
Bigger TMIC - If needed
20g Turbo
TBE - Have already


Now with those mods with a good conservative tune that should do me pretty well. I do think im missing something but cannot remember so does anyone have any info? or thoughts? Lets start this convo so i can get some results?

 

With those mods, forget the AP, you're just throwing money away. Go with an opensource tune. With injectors, usually the bigger, the better. You can go overkill with injectors but it won't hurt any if you're tuned properly, I would say 750CC is a good size but you could go larger if you wanted. At the point you'd be at with those mods, you may want to re-think the FMIC. In my opinion, it would do you good to go front mount.

 

I was thinkin of 650-750cc injectors.

As far as the FMIC i just dont want to have to fabricate i would like to keep to stock look as im going for the sleeper look. I have been reading that you can run a TMIC but you just cannot get as much HP out of it. Since the turbo is not a huge turbo i would think that TMIC should be able to handle it.

Im not really that familiar with Open source tuning i liked the idea of being able to change maps and being conservative at times. So what are the differences between open source and AP?

I really feel like i need to learn about this more but am not finding results its very difficult to sift through so many threads its so time consuming.

 

2004 Subaru sti

Cobb AP with tune
Better injectors - Which?
Walbro fuel pump
Bigger TMIC - If needed
20g Turbo
TBE - Have already

20G flows enough air to get you over the 400bhp mark. Add an intake to the list. Having a turbo inlet available during the install will be worth it if your OE tears during the turbo swap (somewhat common). If you need to recoup cash and your OE is fine, you can sell the aftermarket one for a slight hit.

I was thinkin of 650-750cc injectors.

650cc will not be enough. 740cc/850cc injectors if going with a pump gas tune, larger if your area has E85 and may use that in the future.

As far as the FMIC i just dont want to have to fabricate i would like to keep to stock look as im going for the sleeper look. I have been reading that you can run a TMIC but you just cannot get as much HP out of it. Since the turbo is not a huge turbo i would think that TMIC should be able to handle it.

TMIC would be fine, but a FMIC will get more power

Im not really that familiar with Open source tuning i liked the idea of being able to change maps and being conservative at times. So what are the differences between open source and AP?

What does your tuner use? If they tune OpenECU, it would be more cost-effective to go that route. If you feel like changing maps, you can pick up a tactrix cable and laptop (if you don't have one) for cheaper than you can buy an AP.

 

Okay i will put my list together and see what happens i guess.

Okay so if i don't buy a Cobb AP and i run with the open source is my car always running (tuned) or is there a way i can run it to be good for economy driving? get what i mean. OR is it getting the car tuned and it runs better then stock and get good mileage with the tune and that's how its always going to be?


If you get the tactrix cable how do you use that system. Is is user friendly or is that an option that a tuner does?


I will prob get 740cc i really dont plan on doing much more after these mods.

I would imaging they have e85 somewhere but i do not wanted to be limited to where i purchase gas. what are the pros and cons of E85?


As far as the intake last time i went to the tuner he told me that the stock Intake is better then most intakes as its the forced air rather then having an intake under the hood?

I know im asking alot of Questions im getting some great answers and i really appreciate it guys!

 

In regards to the AP, the AP economy mode won't work with your mods. The Tatrix cable is just a means of connecting a laptop to your car's ECU, you can have mulitiple maps loaded to a laptop and switch between them if you wanted. To build a map is a different story. A good intake, if tuned for, is better than a stock intake, especially with a larger turbo.

1 more thing i was just talking to a person that i bought my AP from and he had a pretty good setup on his WRX he sold that Cobb AP so he could get an open-source tune but the tuner told him he needed his Cobb AP to get a tune is that because of the car or is that the tuner.

He has an 07 wrx with vf39 and some other mods they said that open source was not good on this particular year and model?

with that being said your saying that i dont need a cobb ap to get an open source tune?

The tuner is why he would need the AP, not the car. Don't know why he would say an opensource is not good for his car, completely untrue. You don't need an AP to have your car tuned, the AP is just a means of flashing your ECU, just like a tatrix cable

 

1 more thing i was just talking to a person that i bought my AP from and he had a pretty good setup on his WRX he sold that Cobb AP so he could get an open-source tune but the tuner told him he needed his Cobb AP to get a tune is that because of the car or is that the tuner.

He has an 07 wrx with vf39 and some other mods they said that open source was not good on this particular year and model?

with that being said your saying that i dont need a cobb ap to get an open source tune?

 

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/tunin...134322320-opensource-tuning-your-questions-answered-here-romraider-tactrix.html

 

Okay thanks for the reply i will read up on that.

Also what are thoughts on blouch td06 20g turbo with 8cm2 is that the best 20g turbo for your buck?
im still trying to find info about turbos and all but i think im pretty set on a 20g so if you have any info that helps i would greatly appreciate it.


I will look into a new intake i will be buying everything and installing it at once i think that would be the best way is just to get it over with and getting a tune.

I am trying to talk to the tuner or company that will be doing that tune. Im going to ask them about the set up I'm going to attempt and see what they recommend as well.


As for the open source tune it seems like your correct and it will be the best bang for your buck. so i will also ask them about that.

Thanks for your reply

 

Hello all again ... I need some advice once again.... after several weeks of researching my build i am stuck... i was set on putting a 20g-xt turbo in my 2004 sti with all the mods to support it.

After talking with a couple tuners due to my milage its recomended to refresh/rebuild my engine first. So with that being said i am building the block i currently have it torn down to just the block will prob pull the heads later on today to check things out. I need some advice on what pistons and rods to run. 1 tuner says stock rods are good and other says get some better ones. I would also like to put cams on the car while its apart and being rebuilt. My plans are to rebuild the engine then drive it for a little bit to break it in then return to upgrading the turbo...

So with rebuilding the block i plan on cosworth or JE pistons those are the 2 recomended by tuners. what are your thoughts?

If i put cams (stage 2) 272's i believe what will need to be done for them to fit? any machine work? and will i need headers?

Im going to delete the TGV's and get an 11mm oil pump.

SO Since im building the block i might as well get a bigger and better turbo so my question is what turbo would anyone recomend to get to the 450-500whp range i want my car to be dependable still - it will be my weekend warrior- so does that sound resonable or am i just dreaming?

So my question is with a block with forged pistons/rods?/tgv delete/3in inlet/cams/refreshed heads/timing belt/water pump/oil pump/new pulleys is that enough for a build to withstand stand that much power and have the car run safe for a while?

Any info would be great i would like to get my car out on the road again asap its getting depressing seeing it sit day after day

I am also trying to find a good machinest in the PHX area not sure who to trust does anyone know anyone around here that specializes in subys?