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Discussion starter · #81 ·
I'll be dammed if I don't replace every screw on this manifold, so pumped with how its turning out! I have just the throttle body misc. sensor screws left, 6 in total [I believe all M4x0.7-12mm]

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I like the SubaruOnlyShow (YT channel) idea of using a rubber wristband under the turbo inlet worm gear clamp to help on it cutting into the rubber (as it did to my original one). Picked up a 8" band off AMZN and applied as so:

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Grimmspeed up-pipe has arrived! My OEM one off the car (EJ205 mind you) was a 2-bolt connection at the exhaust manifold. However, Grimspeed's site claims the "2-bolt" pipe is for '06+ WRX's and EJ25 motors - their "3-bolt" is advertised for the '02-'04 WRX's and EJ20 motors. Strange. Went with the 2-bolt since that's what was on the car. Black thermal coated one was same price as raw stainless so why not.

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Discussion starter · #82 ·
Finally purchased the IAG "street" oil pan package and got it on. Idk why no one seems to talk about it, but the gap/cavity in the oil pan tube after inserting the dipstick is much wider than that of the OEM pan which concerns me about letting water, debris, etc. intrude in. May find some correct size heater hose to put there to help seal and block it off.
- I also could not get the dipstick tube to not rub against the 2 vertical coolant hardlines there. Same thing I figure I'll need some pipe in between to help slow that.

Engine is slowly coming together now! Group N engine mounts, oil cooler, various top-side piping, and a few new sensors installed. Next up is the oil pump, drop in the camshafts, and factory exhaust manifolds (*surprisingly the Master Gasket Kit does not incl. the 2 gaskets for the cross-over flex pipe).

Feel like I still have a laundry list of things to buy blehhh... priority is timing belt kit w water pump so I can wrap up the front-side. New timing covers should come in this week. Still to buy a turbo, clutch, crank + cam sensors, AOS...might get a Fluidamper hmm...

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Discussion starter · #86 ·
Be a mess down the road but maybe a little sealer on top? Or a cone on the stick downwards ^
The cone is exactly what I was thinking! Something that could slip over the top of the tube and you run down to the bottom. Then another bit of hose to keep on the upper end to protect it from rubbing on those 2 coolant hard lines that go off the water pump.
 
Discussion starter · #88 ·
Turbo officially installed! Don't see much about this Blouch 16G online (everyone seems to go bigger lol) so here are my two cents:

1) Fitment to downpipe and turbo oil drain line are just like stock. All coolant lines come pre-installed.
2) There is a gold nipple-type piece threaded into the top of the turbo which an end of the braided ball-bearing oil feed line screws down into.

3) The other end of the braided line goes to the head w the factory banjo bolt (*2 crush washers on either sides). I am not a fan of how tight the line has to flex in order to fit so will keep an eye on that.
- Short of removing the extra material there on the back of the head, the line has to come up to the head from the bottom, otherwise it will not seat flush with the head. 3rd pic below for reference.

4) The gap between the 2 nipples on top (4th pic below) is greater than stock, so you must make your own vacuum lines to go there - along with a "T" to ultimately hook them up to the boost control solenoid. I haven't done any of this part yet. The nipples are also 2 different sizes with the inwards one being that of factory, and the outer most one being just a big larger.
- I'll be buying the Grimmspeed boost control solenoid then figuring out vacuum line routing once motor is all back in the car.

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Discussion starter · #91 ·
If it leaks, almost any industrial hydraulics place can make a replacement with a bent hard line at the banjo fitting to relieve the strain.
Thanks man. I will keep an eye on it and look for this if it starts to leak. I ended up leaving it as is for now given its totally replaceable while motor is in the car, if needed, later on.
 
Discussion starter · #92 ·
Happened to read online that the IAG oil pickup tube and baffle bolts should have loctite on them. So off came the oil pan again and blue loctite applied. Better now than once in the car! I took the time to put black RTV around the surface as well; although idk why I went to the outside and not inside of the bolt holes as you can see lol. Too late now...

New Walbro 255 fuel pump is installed and easily goes right into the stock fuel hanger!
- Everything online for these is on the sedans, located directly under the rear seat. That is not the case for the wagon. You have to remove all the rear floor panels as you can see. This gives you 2 ports, 1 on driver side (*not sure what this is? I didn't do anymore than remove the panel to see) and 1 on the passenger side (which is where fuel pump hanger is located).
- Replaced the rubber 3/8 or 5/8" fuel line on the hanger while at it, and new rubber seal [part #42060AA040].

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Discussion starter · #98 ·
Motor is back in the car! More pics to come once I get further progress there. Beforehand however, I mocked up the intake manifold for photos. Please enjoy those below haha.
And yes, I'm running a stock turbo inlet (had a brand new OEM one I bought last year so figured might as well use) and stock fuel pressure regulator + rails.

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