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Discussion starter · #62 ·
I enjoyed my last one until I started a STi swap...still in progress...13 years later
Sounds like my dad in early 2000s wanting to put a 350 in his Nova; still she sits lol. Life happens.

I ended up calling Outfront this morning. Good convo. Regarding their EJ20 shortblock offerings: Closed-deck is overkill for what I'm looking for the guy said, 1/2" stud machining totally not necessary, and re-use of my stock heads should be fine regardless of if I go with their standard EJ20 or the 2.1L stroker. Seasoned vs. new case halves entirely personal preference. The stroker is very intriguing to me as a daily driver and I'd still keep the rumble noise character.
 
Discussion starter · #65 ·
THE STROKER HAS BEEN ORDERED! Ended up going w that 2.1L 'stroker' shortblock from Outfront Motorsports. OEM 10mm oil pump w their shimming service, ARP 2000 11mm head studs, and a large parts order elsewhere to keep me busy once the shortblock comes in.

I ended up talking with Bespoke Performance after @WRX-maniac seeing your recent tuning with them. In order to tune the 2.1L he wants to see me upgrade fueling to a set of ID-1050s and a Walbro 255 fuel pump, as well as an STI or equivalent TIMC (I've now purchased all incl. a new OEM STI TMIC from dealer). Cylinder heads go to machine shop after Memorial Day. Big pieces left to order include IAG AOS + street oil pan bundle, and I need to make a decision on UEL headers or keep stock, aftermarket downpipe or keep stock, and a turbo (was recommended a VF48 series but idk there are an overwhelming amount of options).

Wow these motors are not that cheap to build I will say that. Given the frequency of modifications people do to these cars I expected a much lower price tag going into this. But I'm committed now for better or worse.
 
You wont regret going to Bespoke. Sometimes they can be a little slow, but they are a super busy, but outstanding, shop. Can I ask why you are keeping UEL headers? EL is a much better choice,
 
Discussion starter · #67 ·
Can I ask why you are keeping UEL headers? EL is a much better choice,
I can appreciate the performance and reliability aspect of the EL, but I'm def more of character vs performance-type car person and the UEL sound is integral to that for me. This thing will still just be my daily driver so if it makes 2xx or 3xx whp totally cool w me either way.

Grimmspeed has an intriguing header claiming UEL sound w EL benefits, not quite sure about that, but there are potential oil cooler fitment issues I need to research more. I was excited about an IAG or RCM set but reading how you have to notch out the U-frame on the GD's to fit them I'm not a fan of doing that. If not the Grimmspeed unit I'm tempted to just get their 2-bolt up-pipe, retain stock exhaust manifold, and call it a day. The downpipe offerings seem to have dwindled since that EPA update a few years back.
 
I respect the decision to stay UEL. But the EL (at least the killer b holy header on my STi) sounds better IMO. But, EL headers do offer a lot more than the performance side of things. It is a natural cylinder 4 cooling mod and keeps everything cooler due to the runners all being the same length. Im sure you know this, but to me it is a worthwhile upgrade for performance and safety of the engine. Looking forward to seeing your build completed. Gonna be an awesome street car no matter what!
 
Discussion starter · #70 ·
I respect the decision to stay UEL. But the EL (at least the killer b holy header on my STi) sounds better IMO. But, EL headers do offer a lot more than the performance side of things. It is a natural cylinder 4 cooling mod and keeps everything cooler due to the runners all being the same length. Im sure you know this, but to me it is a worthwhile upgrade for performance and safety of the engine. Looking forward to seeing your build completed. Gonna be an awesome street car no matter what!
Ahh I've been listening to a lot of YT videos for the sound and I just cannot get into the ELH :/ That aside in speaking of cylinder 4, do you have the GDT Cylinder 4 cooling mod on your STI? I'm considering adding it to my parts list.
 
Discussion starter · #71 ·
Tuner wants to see a bigger intercooler for the forthcoming motor and I have obliged with a brand new STI one from dealer [part #21820AA252] - how cool you can still buy from Subaru! I can run this from Day 1 with an AOS too, should keep it clean for a long while. While perhaps a bit poser lol, this over an aftermarket one gives me more of the OEM+ feel. Still need to buy the associated hood scoop splitter and under-IC Y-pipe assembly (both differ from the WRX IC).

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Ahh I've been listening to a lot of YT videos for the sound and I just cannot get into the ELH :/ That aside in speaking of cylinder 4, do you have the GDT Cylinder 4 cooling mod on your STI? I'm considering adding it to my parts list.
No sir, I have the natural cylinder 4 cooling mods. EL manifold and E85.
 
Also, Youtube clips are not accurate. Need to hear in person. My STi with the KillerB holy header and ETS exhaust the rest of the way back sounds amazing. Like a porshe and an evo had a baby lol. I love the sound and prefer it over the UEL. It is not high and raspy. Has some pops and a unique growl to it. It is amazing.
 
Discussion starter · #75 ·
Making progress before the shortblock arrives! Got the trans and subframe all cleaned up. Bought 2’ of Gates fuel line hose from O’Reilly’s and cut to match the 4 rubber lines as part of the under-manifold fuel rails ($20 in hose vs OEM fitted $90 for all).

Cruise control (CC) relocation bracket from Radium, installed so as to fit eventual IAG AOS. Straightforward install but also not - directions don’t mention routing cable to other side of the big grey connector (I did so it’s not rubbing and tight) + I had to cut the factory zip tie mounting the chassis harness loom to the subframe in order to have clearance below the CC module in its new home.

Need to get the new Walboro pump installed next, and pick a powdercoat place for the intake manifold so I can get that all back together. Ended up grabbing a new wiring harness for the manifold from iWire!

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Discussion starter · #76 ·
Turbo - I’ve narrowed down to 2 options: IHI VF48 Hi-Flo vs. Blouch 16G-XT R.
The latter is a ball bearing-based turbo. Is that worth an extra +$400 for my not-closed-deck and still stock 5-speed application?

Headers - talked again this week w Bespoke Performance/AndrewTech. Going to stick w the stock exhaust manifold and grab a Grimmspeed 2-bolt up-pipe. They say I’ll see more benefit by spending my header money on a hi-flow catted downpipe as the stock one is quite restrictive; this does mesh with what I’ve seen online.
 
Discussion starter · #77 ·
Well after almost 1-mth the shortblock has finally arrived from Outfront! No pics, haven't unboxed yet, but you've seen them a million times lol.

In the interim, the manifold, both "GBD" covers, and other misc. brackets are back from powdercoat ("aluminum silver" color to keep a close-to-stock-ish look), while an entire rubbermaid of other parts are with a buddy for sandblasting. I need to paint the TGV housings (didn't want to do a full delete nor try to remove the plastic gears in order to have powdercoated) then the entire sub-project of restoring the manifold can conclude.

Had to pause on further Subie parts purchases for a bit as another of our cars experienced lifter failure (classic GM) so I'm currently dismantling a 6.2 and have all parts to do a DoD + VVT delete.

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Discussion starter · #79 ·
Very close on wrapping up the 'sub-project' of restoring the intake manifold; I need to spend time on the parts diagrams for what vacuum hoses go where to the right of the turbo inlet. Also need to clean up the throttle body before installing on here. A few pics in order below:

#1 - layout of most all parts needed. I did not buy a new factory fuel pressure regulator, add ~$180 if you want to replace that.
#2 - the tiny screws holding in the butterfly flaps on the factory TGVs all broke on me lol. Apparently non-removable. I've talked to my prospective tuner and supposedly this is okay how I'm running it (no butterfly flaps) as I'm still retaining the sensors and actuators on both ends of the TGV housings (so ECU will see 'movement'). I'm not comfortable doing a full delete at this time until actually working with them and given everything else changing in the engine here.

#3 - the new ID 1050cc injectors installed (red color).

#4 - intake manifold as it sits now. Yes, I'm just going with factory turbo inlet since I already had a new one on hand.
  • Boy am I glad I got the iWIRE factory harness replacement, what a pleasure to work with! That said, it is thicker than the tray the holds the factory harness underneath the manifold. So I need to figure out a proper connection / holding method there. Might wait until the manifold is ready to go into the car idk yet.
  • After seeing all the new parts I hate using some of these old bolts lol. I need to order about 16 new ones from dealer and I'll swap em in.

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Discussion starter · #80 ·
Got in a handful of OEM bolts for the intake manifold + elsewhere today, as well as brand-new bellhousing bolts (the longs ones FYI are size M10x1.25-100mm), and the smaller circular gasket for the fuel pump once I get to that. I'm determined at this point to replace effectively every bolt on the manifold assembly, so I ordered the remaining stainless bolts off AMZN to wrap up. Sizes I have left to replace are predominantly:

  • M6x1.0-10mm [these can go in-place of the factory-style combination hex/Phillips head screws w locking washers on them]
  • M6x1.0-15mm [IIRC these are the smaller bolts attaching the sensors to TGV housings]
  • M8-1.25-15mm [fuel rail bolts]
  • M8x1.25-40mm [throttle body bolts x4]

Finished the other unexpected engine work finally in the meantime; have put about 500 miles on it since completion. Goddam are Subaru motors expensive compared to LS stuff, I had no idea! Pic for those curious. I now officially have 2 vehicles that are tuned, what am I doing... LOL.

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