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??What oil should I use??

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463K views 458 replies 126 participants last post by  ufkincraig  
#1 · (Edited)
This seems to be a common question frequently asked here on the forums. Obviously when in doubt the first thing to check is your owner' manual or factory repair manual. As you will see it gives you a range of choices:
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So what do those numbers mean? The type of oil most automobiles use is called a multi viscosity oil. Hence the two numbers on the label. The first number designates the viscosity of the oil cold and the second the viscosity of the oil at normal operating temperatures. Motor oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia 5W30 is the recommended oil for best fuel economy and is what Subaru puts in the car from the factory. As you can see from the factory manual page above,5w30 basically works for most of us due to climate temps. Obviously some might run a different oil in the winter and summer seasons depending on where you live or by preferred choice.

But what should I use? Conventional or Synthetic? Or synthetic blend?The choice is up to you. There are some very good conventional motor oils on the market. As far as synthetic blends,it's kind of a scam. Either use conventional "dino" oil or your average Group III synthetic (it's basiclly a " synthetic blend anyways:)) I prefer synthetic due to longer oil change intervals,higher temp threshold (less chance of coking) and less sludge build up. Coking is a byproduct of oil when it breaks down. It is the solid like sludge that can block passage ways and drains.

"If the inside of the bearing housing resembles the bottom of a frying pan and is coated with black crusty deposits, oil coking was the cause of failure. The bearings are oil cooled, and during normal operation temperatures don't get hot enough to cause oil coking. But when the engine is shut off, temperatures can rise to 600 to 700 degrees F. inside the housing as the turbo undergoes a period of heat soak. The oil oxidizes and forms coke deposits in the housing that then act like an abrasive to wear the bearings. Using a high temperature "turbo" oil or synthetic oil, installing an auxiliary oil cooler, and changing the oil every 3,000 miles can avoid oil breakdown and coking problems. In water-cooled turbos, coking is less of a problem provided the oil is changed regularly and you use a quality motor oil. So if you find an accumulation of black crud inside the housing, better check the coolant hoses for a kink or restriction."

Turbocharger Diagnosis & Repair

As far as synthetics,not all are the same. There are generally three types found. Group IIIs,Group IVs and Group Vs.

Group III = Hydrocracked/hydroisomerized (mineral based "semi-sythetic")
Mobil-1
Shell Rotella T synthetic
Castrol oil Syntec
Quaker state synthetic
Amsoil XL7500

Group IV = Polyalphaolefin (POA)
Amsoil Synthetic
Royal Purple
Motul 6100
Lubro/Liqui Moly
Eneos Nippon
European Castrol oil Syntec
Greddy

Group V = Ester based
Motul 300V
Motul 8100
Redline

Group IV and V are the "true synthetics". Above I just showed some examples to give you an idea. Hopefully this clears up some confusion and also make sure to use a quality filter when ever possible!My opinion of a quality filter would be: Purolator,Wix,K&N or BOSCH.:)

One of the best sites for oil and filter information!!
Welcome

Good quick reads with lots of info
Motor Oil Viscosity Grades Explained in Layman's Terms
Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible
 
#11 ·
Highly stickworthy and possibly mandatory reading before joining.

This link is an eyeful - maybe add it? www.bescaredracing.com - /sti/oil/filters/ Someone went to a lot of trouble dissecting oil filters.
There are these as well:

Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources
Armand's Subaru Impreza Oil Filter Comparison
LesabreT.com's Oil filter write up..
Oil filter comparison, 4 top brand oil filters cut up and compared. - NASIOC

Flow and filtering ability are key with choosing a filter but most often overlooked is the proper bypass valve psi.
 
#9 ·
valvoline synthetic. comes with a 300,000 mile engine guarantee as well as long as your mods are professionally installed.


i only know this becuiase i am a valvoline employee. five years now



any way, independent lab testing proves that our oil has 8X wear pretection than Mobil 1 and im sorry royal purple, but your oil is in the same class as our conventional oil. no not semi synthetic, conventional!!

granted thats still 3X better wear protection than mobil 1.


valvoline was the first company to produce a oil for use in a motor. the first locomotives were lubricated with valvoline base stock




all in all yes i do work for valvoline, but i have done my research, and so have they. they were the first in the buisness and are still at the top of the market.




so when it comes to the question," what oil do i use?" just ask jay lenno

i guarantee he will tell you his garage filled with supercars contains not a drop of oil other than VALVOLINE



does that help?
 
#14 ·
valvoline synthetic. comes with a 300,000 mile engine guarantee as well as long as your mods are professionally installed. i only know this becuiase i am a valvoline employee. five years now

any way, independent lab testing proves that our oil has 8X wear pretection than Mobil 1 and im sorry royal purple, but your oil is in the same class as our conventional oil. no not semi synthetic, conventional!!

granted thats still 3X better wear protection than mobil 1.

valvoline was the first company to produce a oil for use in a motor. the first locomotives were lubricated with valvoline base stock

all in all yes i do work for valvoline, but i have done my research, and so have they. they were the first in the buisness and are still at the top of the market.

so when it comes to the question," what oil do i use?" just ask jay lenno

i guarantee he will tell you his garage filled with supercars contains not a drop of oil other than VALVOLINE

does that help?
Valvoline is a great company and makes a great oil but your opinion of course is going to be biased:). Any links to data? I mean Amsoil employee/dealers are going to make their product seem like its the cats meow too:). AMSOIL - Comparative Motor Oil Testing
I personally go by UOA's on my personal vehicle to help me choose an oil and let me know if its doing its job.

Blackstone Labs
Oil Analyzers, Inc. - Oil Analysis, Oil Testing Services
 
#15 ·
i have been sending my samples to oil analyzers, inc. as well for about 60k now.


i am not sure the name of the lab that did the testing between valvoline, mobil 1, penzoil, royal purple, castrol, mystery oil, and a few others, but i will get with my market manager sometime this week to see if he still has the spreadsheet of the analysis and all the data availiable to him, if not at least the labs name whom conducted the reasearch. i do know it was conducted over a 2 year period and was funded by the socioty of automotive engineers, so in tern it was an extensive test with in depth results.

i will do my best to hunt down the information and come up with something to post
 
#16 ·
i only get paid 12 bux an hour after 5 years with the company, believe me, im not upselling the product for the company. haha..

i just have my personal experience and that lab test that i will try to get linked to me


but all in all, the warranty is FREE as long as you sign up before 75k on your vehicle, parts are professionally installed, and you get your oil changed every 4k. the store logs it for you, but if you decide to change your own oil, you can go online, type in the oils upc code, and it verifys that you bought the oil, and loggs a change for you, and you have three strikes, say you miss a change, or go somewhere else for once. guarantee still valid!


300,000 miles, any oil related failure gets you a BRAND NEW( not used) motor, rental car, and installation costs oin valvoline
 
#20 ·
The XFS are not beyond MB229.1 even though we're almost into 2011. The XF are MB229.5 and ACEA A3 -- great. However, they are generally unavailable where most people on the forum actually shop.
 
#23 ·
I've got 52k on 4qts of Mobil1 0w30 and 1qt of Lucas's Synthetic Oil Stabilizer with a K&N Gold Oil Filter. I should get an oil analysis. I don't have any consumption between my 5k Oil change intervals (3k during race season)
 
#24 ·
I USED to use Lucas in my oil at one point like that Kev.... But if you change it every 3K.... no need. I did an oil analysis a while back (one with/one without) about 10K miles inbetween and there was no difference. Snake oil in my eyes since then.


Just sayin
 
#25 ·
I was using castrol GTX for a while in my 2004 STi and Blackstone told me I could extend my O.C.I. beyond 3500 miles...this leads me to believe that your choice of oil should be dictated by what kind of abuse you put on the car, as I was doing mostly highway/commuting driving. If I were doing racing or modifying the car heavily, I'm sure their recommendation would have been different.

I don't have time to do my own maintenance anymore, so I trust a reputable dealership and change my oil regularly, but I think for most cars that 3k number on synthetic oil is about 150% more conservative than it needs to be. I would probably start at 4500 miles and see what Blackstone said if I were using a premium synthetic such as Redline.
 
#29 ·
After doing some research I have decided on using Motul 8100 5w-30 oil for my car but I see they offer a few different choices and not sure I understand what is what. I see an Eco-nergy, XClean, Xmax, etc..

Here is some info I found on each, appreciate any help.

- 8100 X-cess 5W40: 100% synthetic engine oil, specifically designed for powerful and recent cars fitted with high displacement engines, gasoline, Direct injection turbo Diesel and catalytic converters. Numerous car maker approvals make this product multipurpose especially recommended when the car is under warranty. Suitable for leaded or unleaded gasoline, Diesel fuels and LPG. ACEA A3 / B3 / B4. API SL / CF. Approval by VW 502 00 / 505 00, BMW ‘Long Life’, PORSCHE, Mercedes Benz 229.3.

- 8100 Eco-nergy 5W30: 100% synthetic engine oil, provides outstanding lubricating properties such as wear and high temperature resistance and controlled oil consumption. Fuel Economy Engine Oil especially designed for recent engines, powered by turbo Diesel direct injection or gasoline engines, designed to use low friction and low HTHS (High Temperature High Shear) viscosity oil. API SL/CF, ACEA A1/B1 or A5/B5. Maker's Approval. Anti-oxydation, Anti-wear, Anti-corrosion, Anti-foam properties.

- 8100 X-Max 5W30: High power Gasoline and Diesel engines. 100% Synthetic, Ester based. Lubricant especially designed for flexible drain intervals for BMW gasoline and diesel engines when a BMW Long Life-01 approved oil is required or Mercedes-Benz gasoline and diesel engines type 646, 647, 648 et 271… when MB calls for MB 229.5 engines oils. API: SL/CF ACEA: A3/B4. BMW LL-01, MB 229.3, 229.5, VW 502.00-505.00

- 8100 X-Clean 5W40 C3: 100% Synthetic Gasoline & Diesel lubricant for EURO IV eingines. Lubricant specially designed for last generation cars, powered by turbo Diesel direct injection or gasoline engines, EURO IV emission regulation compliant, requiring an ACEA C3 engine oil, high HTHS(>3.5mPas.s) viscosity and “Mid SAPS” with reduced content of suphated ash (=0.8%), phosphorus (0.07=x=0.09%) and sulphur (=0.3%).
Suitable for any type of Diesel or gasoline engines calling for ACEA A3/B3 or A3/B4 lubricants.
ACEA C3 lubricants achieve extended drain intervals managed by vehicles computer on board. ACEA: A3/B4/C3
API: SM/CF
Approvals: BMW LL04, MB 229.31, Porsche, VW502.00-505.00
Recommendations: Renault/Nissan-Fiat-Kia-Suzuki-Ssangyong.

- 8100 X-LITE 0W30: 100% synthetic, ester-based. Good fuel efficiency. Specially designed for powerful and recent cars, diesel direct injection or gasoline engines and catalytic converters.
Recommendated for Audi TT and S3 and all W engines from Volkswagen group. ACEA:A3/B4, API: SL/CF. VW 502.00/505.00/503.01 – MB 229.3
 
#30 ·
After doing some research I have decided on using Motul 8100 5w-30 oil for my car but I see they offer a few different choices and not sure I understand what is what. I see an Eco-nergy, XClean, Xmax, etc..
You have a 2011. Follow the manufacturer's specifications to the letter. What oil does Subaru say to use? An API SL? CF? What viscosity?

Follow those recommendations.

If it were my car I'd look at the two ACEA A3 choices above, and probably use either or prefer the one that meets LL-04. You are still under warranty though, so you should follow the Subaru spec. specifically. Keep all receipts.
 
#33 ·
Ya, I noticed that but I read a good amount of people use it for a wrx. Oh well, the more I think about it I just want a good oil I can get without much hassle (advance, walmart, etc..) at a reasonable price since I plan on following the 3750 mile interval at least for the first few changes then up to 5000 miles. All this reading about oil is enough to make you crazy :eek:
 
#36 ·
I did read about that and called my dealer. Talked with the service manager and he said that is the maximum interval for the car under normal operating conditions. However, he said if it was my car I wouldn't go past 5000 miles. I am still unsure about what brand to use. I've used Mobil 1 5w-30 in my Frontier with no problems but after some research it doesn't seem like a good choice in a wrx. Shell Rotella T6 has plenty of good info behind it but I only see 5w-40 available. I would hate to pay top dollar for Subaru oil from my local dealer because they are pricks.
 
#39 ·
BUMP THIS....Shell Rotella T6 is good stuff. To add a bit, the only oil I've heard shearing on a turbo car is Mobil1 5w-30 down to a 20wt. I guess it really depends how you drive, how often you change your oil, etc. I know Mobil1 has their 5w-40 as well, but I've never used it. I usually stick to either Rotella T6 5w-40 or Valvoline full synth with no issues...
2005 WRX, 62K, no issues.
 
#40 ·
As a guy that makes his living advising people in the oil industry, including people such as the King of Saudi Arabia, any stories of a particular oil causing engine failures is ridiculous. The oil isn't doing it. That particular engine may have had issues that caused it to fail earlier than others. Tranny fluid or brake fluid or any of those others are a different story, but engine oil is engine oil. Synthetic is better than conventional, but in general, no oil if properly maintained/replaced will ever cause a failure. They're all too similar to ever blame one for an issue.

But what do I know, I've just made a quarter million a year+ for years doing this job. Listen to gossip or listen to somebody that knows.
 
#43 ·
I would have to agree with this. I also wish I made half as much as you.

After some research when I was looking into oils I came to this conclusion. The wrx and sti tend to consume oil when driven hard if you use a 5w-30 energy conserving oil. People end up not checking the oil, run the car hard while low on oil, engine has failure, they run to the forums and bad mouth that oil.
 
#41 · (Edited)
Well I have a hard time believing that mistakes are never made:D . Mobil 1 5w30 was an oil,for a while,known for shearing early. It's a mass produced product like everything else. I'm sure quality control sometimes can lack or a "mistake" is made in the oil additive package. Not saying the product still does shear down but this is not just a Subaru thing. But your absolutely right,the are other variables that need to be looked at before just blaming the oil for engine failure. For one if your not running a quality filter than even the worlds best motor oil isn't going to save you. If you want to know if your oil (and filter) is working for you then spend $20 on a UOI (Used Oil Analysis).
 
#42 ·
I ran Mobil 1 stock, and stage 1. I stopped using it at stage 2 as it was no longer up to the task. Will I run it in my current WRX with it's mods: No.

Would I run it in a stock WRX: I would have, but I've since found an oil I'm very happy with that gets excellent reviews.

Will I continue to run it in my 4runner: Absolutely.
 
#52 ·
I look at it this way, I'm a castrol fan.. always have been and never had any issues with it.. in various applications (even air cooled.. which is hell on oil) however.. that said.. Porsche spec's mobile1 for their machines... and those engineers aren't messing about. So.. as its always up to the consumer to decide how to spend their money.. Mobil1 is still a good product. My wrx at 46K mi now (in case you guys haven't noticed I rack up mileage like highschool kids get pimples) and has had mobil1 in it since its first oil change. I'm all factory for now, looking to go stage1 pretty soon.. but no further. For me and most others (as stated above) mobil1 should be just fine.
 
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