[runfor5]

Nice painting weather this week here! Went back and removed the drivers side fuel injector cover to paint. Tossed on my new OEM caps as well during re-install of the washer fluid reservoir: brake fluid cap [26453AC000] + washer fluid reservoir cap [86615AA060] + coolant overflow tank cap [45153AA000].

Got 1st round of coolant draining done and distilled water in. Will take numerous attempts I know, in order to get all the old 'green' stuff out before switching to 'blue'.

 

[runfor5]

Some misc. work coupled with the above: new brake booster vacuum hose [26194FE200] (*note it comes w 2 new hose clamps on both ends so you do not have to buy them separate as I had done) + new gas cap [42031SA010] as my tether has been broken since buying the car plus the rubber is all cracked anyhow.

I'll update here later regarding the current trouble I'm having swapping CV axles on one side LOL. It is stuck inside the wheel hub bearing, cannot get out, so I've run the entire assembly over to a shop to get it pressed out. Gotta love project creep from me just going in to change ball joints smh...

 

[WRX-maniac]

Something so satisfying replacing old dilapidated parts with new. Good work on this so far!

 

[Bozac]

So Im going through and "refreshing" my original 2004 wrx wagon as well and noticed these "dog leg" pieces or aka moulding protectors (OEM name) are extinct now. I have one brand new one for the left side just would love to find a right side. but Im going to reuse mine also and just use the 3M VHB tape like you did.

So I was curious how well yours are holding up so far with the tape that you used as well?

 

[runfor5]

So Im going through and "refreshing" my original 2004 wrx wagon as well and noticed these "dog leg" pieces or aka moulding protectors (OEM name) are extinct now. I have one brand new one for the left side just would love to find a right side. but Im going to reuse mine also and just use the 3M VHB tape like you did.

So I was curious how well yours are holding up so far with the tape that you used as well?

They have held up well including w the SEM “Trim Black” paint I did on em! I think post #15 onwards on here has what I did (assuming you read already). It’s been nearly 1 year. Just note upon removal you’re going to break one or both of the blue plastic clips that retain them onto the car; I don’t see how you can do it without breaking.

- Obviously be very careful to not break the molding piece itself too.

The “dog leg” right side still shows as available here FYI:

91022FE020 - Wheel Arch Molding. Protector (Right, Rear Quarter) - Genuine Subaru Part

Genuine Subaru Part # 91022FE020 (91021FE110NN) - Wheel Arch Molding. Protector (Right, Rear Quarter). Fits Impreza, Outback, WRX

parts.subaru.com

 

[Bozac]

They have held up well including w the SEM “Trim Black” paint I did on em! I think post #15 onwards on here has what I did (assuming you read already). It’s been nearly 1 year. Just note upon removal you’re going to break one or both of the blue plastic clips that retain them onto the car; I don’t see how you can do it without breaking.

- Obviously be very careful to not break the molding piece itself too.

The “dog leg” right side still shows as available here FYI:

91022FE020 - Wheel Arch Molding. Protector (Right, Rear Quarter) - Genuine Subaru Part

Genuine Subaru Part # 91022FE020 (91021FE110NN) - Wheel Arch Molding. Protector (Right, Rear Quarter). Fits Impreza, Outback, WRX

parts.subaru.com

Well, was able to source some new pieces but from multiple places. 😎

 

[runfor5]

Axle boots have been torn for some time now, so I bought new aftermarket axles to swap in then can do new boots on the original axles at my own pace. As such, I picked up "Wagon" specific axles off RA: GSP NCV66501XD | $82 each.
- Unsure of the sedan vs. wagon differences noted on RA; happy to learn more if anyone knows!

Starting on the Drivers (FL) side, of course none of this went to plan as I couldn't get the axle out of the goddam knuckle LOL.
- Ended up taking to a shop to press it out. Cleaned up and painted the knuckle + dust shield before re-installing.
- **Mark your camber bolts on the strut before removing those bolts from the knuckle!

I assume my hammering on it though botched my wheel bearing as there is a mighty roar now all back together. I bought a new Dorman wheel hub $22 [930501] + Timken bearing $35 [517008] + Timken inner and outer seals $10 [710463, 710464] + Timken snap ring $5 [RET176].
- But again, I will have to take the entire knuckle to a shop to press all this in. Too much money, I'd much rather just have the bolt-in style Subaru moved to not long after this. Would be soooo much easier and cheaper.
- Oh, and I did all new ball joints, sway bar end links, and outer tie rods [all Mevotech stuff] while everything was apart

Suspension torque specs I found here:
- https://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/04impreza/imp04_chas_6.pdf
- **Be sure the suspension is 'loaded' when tightening everything to spec.

Strut-to-knuckle 2 bolts: 129 ft-lbs
Ball joint pinch bolt: 37 ft-lbs
Ball joint castle nut: 33 ft-lbs [*??]
Outer tie-rod castle nut: 20 ft-lbs
Brake dust shield: 13 ft-lbs
Brake caliper bracket bolts: 59 ft-lbs
ABS wheel speed sensor: 24 ft-lbs
Sway bar end link: 33 ft-lbs
Axle nut: 162 ft-lbs
Wheel lug nuts: 66 ft-lbs

A 5/32 punch gets the zipper-pin out of these 2004 'female' style axles on the transmission end. A new pin was included with the GSP axle.

The entire assembly after removing from car and getting pressed out from the knuckle to separate.

The new GSP-brand axle in the trans on this FL side.

For just wire brush + wire wheel on drill these turned out quite solid. Still loving that VHT Caliper paint for any application these days.

The new outer tie rods, ball joints, and sway bar end links. I'll try my hand at the inner tie rods later on once ready to pay for an alignment. Outer tie rods I simply counted the # of turns (24) and reinstalled the same.

 

[runfor5]

Onto the FR / Passenger side! Pulled a knuckle off an '05 Forester out the junkyard, family member blasted and installed my new Dorman wheel hub + Timken bearing and seals [left one in 1st image below]. I think I mentioned above, from all that attempting to hammer out the axle on the drivers side I'm pretty sure I damaged the bearing. Pulled that again and took to a shop to install new wheel hub + bearing and seals for $200 but alas, pretty sure the shop installed the seals backwards [see compare of right knuckle in 1st image below]. And this is why I don't trust any other people doing car work lol. That said, I've re-installed it and will just run with it and cross my fingers bearing survives!

All in all now 2 new axles plus bearings and seals up front is a solid maintenance catch-up on this car I'm happy with.

 

[runfor5]

Well, disheartening news after this axle and hub work. The car has developed a 'knock' sound in the motor, aggressively louder than the normal chatter this motor has always had, and it got progressively worse driving from Tues night into yesterday afternoon. Today I've removed crank pulley and outer timing covers in an attempt to see if my issue is the belt tensioner hitting the block, akin to the video below. Unfortunately, pushing down on it w pry bar on the tensioner did not make the noise go away like in the video.

Next thing I'll do is remove valve covers, pull the "ignition" fuse, and watch both sides of the valvetrain while motor turns over. Perhaps that will tell me if its a problem in the heads vs. crank area before deciding to pull the motor.

 

[bue car]

Video of the sound? Does the knock sound follow the revs? Sounds like it does not disappear in higher revs...

 

[runfor5]

Video of the sound? Does the knock sound follow the revs? Sounds like it does not disappear in higher revs...

Thanks for making me do this! Here is a compilation of me driving Thursday, idle once parked (engine warm), then me trying to flex the tensioner to see if noise went away:

 

[runfor5]

Oh and here’s the AP readings while driving during this:

 

[bue car]

Your sound does almost sound like the tensioner... weird

 

[runfor5]

Your sound does almost sound like the tensioner... weird

Pulled the oil drain plug. I think I found my answer. 😭

 

[bue car]

A ball bearing rolling around in the oil pan would do it too....


Sorry for your loss :[

 

[runfor5]

Sad times indeed but shit happens. I was just shy of 170k miles on this original motor; my understanding from prior owner is the Cobb OTS tune had been on there since the 100k mile mark, exclusively for the Cobb intake.

Not bothering with pulling the valve covers after seeing the drain plug. I've started disassembling to pull the motor.

Spent the weekend researching options for a new motor. This below video from Flatiron Tuning, albeit old, seems that a 2.5L swap into mine is quite easy: potentially re-use my non-AVCS cams, buy a sensor bracket + AVCS plugs from IAG, and get a tune.
- The aspects I still am not sure on is if I can re-use my existing exhaust pieces, fueling, and turbo. I plan to give them a call today.

My current thought is either an IAG 550 2.5L shortblock or Subaru OEM Type RA 2.5L shortblock (I presume the IAG one fixes the OEM issues with ringland failure and out of spec bearings), on top of which I'd install OEM 2018+ STI 2.5L heads that I'd put OEM non-AVCS cams into. I don't have a "power goal" here (also keeping in mind I'm still on the original 5-speed trans), but in my mind this path gets me back on the road sooner while also giving me a solid foundation should $ allow later on and I want to build further.

 

[runfor5]

Good progress over the past 2 weeks - motor is out and on the stand! Took last week disconnecting everything, then borrowed a hoist and pulled the motor this past Saturday. Bought a foldable engine stand from Harbor Freight to work off of. Removed the oil pan/pick-up/windage tray this morning and confirmed by "knock" is cylinder 4 (rear-most connecting rod) via which I presume I spun a rod bearing.

3 noteworthy comments in removing the motor:
- 1) Perhaps just me, but I didn't realize you had to pull the clutch fork "upwards". Mine was still stuck on the throw-out bearing, despite wiggling freely (in my mind). As such, we had to maneuver the motor on the hoist to duck the clutch fork under and out of the transmission hole.
- 2) I chose to remove the intake manifold first as you can see from pics. That in and of itself is an intimidating-looking mess but man it sure does give you so much room for the bellhousing bolts and hoist mounting points.
- 3) I did not remove power steering or AC system lines.

My rear main seal was leaking bad, as was my oil cooler gasket (pissed because I thought I got the seating correct 2nd try after botching the 1st seal install). I've never seen a clutch in person but that also doesn't look great (replacing anyways) nor does my flywheel lol.

I've spent a lot of timing bagging+labeling bolts as I go and labeling connectors. Taken some time but will be well worth it for re-install.

While I've replaced a transmission before on a different vehicle, this feels like a much bigger undertaking that I can't say I would have confidently attempted this if not for the multitude of Smeedia tutorial videos on YT and having regularly watched his uploads since I bought my own WRX. So a big thank you to him for those educational videos for sure.

 

[runfor5]

I'm also still back and forth on what direction to go... Fighting between "will I do this again just go built" or "save a few $k go OEM it lasted this long". OEM 2.0L shortblock from Subaru = $2.3k | Built EJ20 shortblock from Outfront Motorsports (forged EJ205 or their 2.1L stroker) or IAG's 750 EJ20 offering = $4-6k. The forged route would entail more money spent on a new turbo and fueling too.

- Regardless, I will be buying a new OEM master gasket kit, new factory oil cooler, IAG AOS system, new clutch, new starter, RCM unequal length headers, and proper dyno tune to get off the Cobb OTS tune.

I'm running my cylinder heads down to a shop in southern VA and debating on having GSC/Brian Crower (BC) valves and springs installed over OEM. I plan to re-use my camshafts.

If anyone has recommendations please chime in!

 

[bue car]

Outfront. I plan to do my EJ18 with them again, 11:1 high compression N/A build.

 

[runfor5]

Outfront. I plan to do my EJ18 with them again, 11:1 high compression N/A build.

Sounds spicy! Have you used their shortblocks before, and what was your experience w it over time?

IAG sells a "750-EJ20" forged motor but there are no reviews on it. That also feels like overkill with my still stock/original 5-speed trans lol. Outfront is intriguing to me in that they sell seemingly 'mild' performance motors. Decisions decisions.