[runfor5]

Finished up my rear spoiler yesterday!!! Decided to hang it this go round so as to shoot upwards with the aerosol can. That worked for my 1st 2 re-coats but the can still shit the bed on the 3rd coat, leaving a heavy wet/dark line that is visible to me, perhaps not the casual observer. The 2-stage clear coat can went on fine. And of course, hanging it left a mark w the string [left side on photo #4 below] but it is what it is. Once the paint gasses off in 30-45 days I will wet sand the topside and see if I can help get some of the orange peel out. Otherwise I am much more pleased w this 2nd attempt compared to my first which ended up with streaks of light and dark blue (uneven coats). I'm calling it done and installed this morning after 2 painting go-rounds and about $200 in aerosol cans smh. Quality painting is hard!

Photo #5 shows the difference between my spraying of the spoiler and the drivers side "L" spoiler bolt cap, a new OEM factory painted part from the dealer. My passenger side "R" bolt cover cap didn't break upon removal, and thus I painted it at the same time as the spoiler itself.

No pics here but I got the STI hood scoop primed with my 'G6 grey' high-build primer as well yesterday, after having wet sanded w 320 grit. Turned out nice, now to wet sand once more w 320, and buy yet another batch of WR Blue and 2-stage clear coat paint. I'm in no hurry for that though as I know it will stand out as obviously not matching the original now-old hood color.

Feels really good to have the car all back together now between this and the side skirts Now, as my friends keep reminding me, I need to turn my attention to my #stillleaksoil issue haha.

 

[runfor5]

Officially decided to convert to the "i" Impreza JDM badge up front, despite buying a new Subaru logo. I'll save the latter for the future if I ever buy a new grille. Bought a heat gun from HD and worked a gift card into it to get off. Wasn't too bad, I've never removed a badge from a vehicle before!

Then I spiraled of course and since the badge is off no better time to paint it... in this thread and others I failed to find what the factory front grille OEM color was, as you may recall.

For purposes of cohesiveness I have just decided to hit it with the SEM Trim Black like all my other trim pieces as of late. I sanded with #320 grit then took a first pass of spraying yesterday. The plastic has silicone on it clearly (photo #3 below) which makes the paint not stick and look like shit. I ran into this with 1 of the trim pieces above ^. Wiping acetone does the trick (it removes all the paint too), re-wash the pieces, rub w 70% alcohol, then do your painting procedure.

Once my new can of black comes in (ran out) I will do just this and then put back together with the new badge.

 

[runfor5]

My alternator is pretty dungy looking and most likely old so in leu of just swapping like-for-like, I've been looking into Subaru factory alternator upgrades. This is a common and easy direct-bolt-on upgrade with the older GM trucks.

Well, from my research (mainly on older NASIOC threads), Subaru offered from the factory across various vehicles alternators in the amp ratings of 75, 90, 110, and 135. Maybe more? The 135 amp sounds like it was mainly used on the 6-cylinders and is not a direct bolt-on to the EJ20 motors (which here is my application and not the EJ25; I imagine it might also apply to that too?). However, from what I gather it appears the 110-amp factory alternator on the 2008-2014 gen Impreza/WRX's [GE, GH, etc.] is backwards compatible with the GD/GG chassis.

As such, and unless someone here tells me otherwise, I'll look to buy a 110-amp unit for my '04 in the near future. The price delta is negligible...a 75 or 90-amp replacement for me (idk which I have now) is about $160 vs. the 110-amp's go for $220, both ACDelco brands and as on RockAuto.

 

[runfor5]

Round 2 of SEM Trim Black on the grille turned out suuuuuper well, after the acetone + 320-grit sanding on those problem areas. Very pleased. I'm also surprised how well the rubber-ish mesh middle section took paint... to the point that my blue painters tape has annoyingly stuck to it lol. I must now tediously remove the leftover pieces of tape, re-assess if I need another spray, then my "i" badge can go on.

 

[runfor5]

A sight I'm sure has been over-done but I think the badge turned out nice on the grille. It's more subtle than I thought, I believe since it's blue just like the OEM logo.

 

[runfor5]

Finally changed transmission fluid for the 1st time. PO had obviously done this not too long before I bought because fluid looked good. Magnet had, I thought, a decent amount of metal on it, but I did learn to drive stick on this thing lol. The OEM magnetic drain plug had also been replaced to a 17mm bolt head design vs. my understanding is the factory one was a T-60 torx bit. I got about 3.5 quarts out of it, and put back in 3 quarts of Subaru OEM 75W-90 gear oil (may need to grab another bottle). Removal of the intercooler made re-filling wayyy easier.

And I bought a set of ramps... made this immensely easier than rolling out the jack and stands. Plan to use em much more often when I can.

 

[runfor5]

What does this mean?? Haha. Was running 16/16 DAM, dropped to 0/16 turning and hitting 3.x PSI of boost. No FBK that I noticed from that time, still showed 0. Car off and on back at home and still sitting at 0. Strange. Haven't gotten gas in 150 miles, wouldn't think it would be that. Oil level fine. Crossing fingers, ha.

 

[runfor5]

Gave it some boost this morning, kicked right back up in increments of 4 to 16 without any FBK. Strange. Anxiety diverted, almost time for some beers on the 4th lol.

 

[runfor5]

Bought a new OEM turbo inlet hose [part #14459AA361 about $127 after-tax]. My old one appears original and, despite having a fresh <20k mile PVC part in there, leaks oil blow-by at the turbo connection where the metal clamp goes. Found somewhere online/YouTube before of a better method for clamping down the turbo end on this inlet and I need to find again. The factory worm clamp on there has sharp ends which bothers me given that fitting is rubber.

I'll be removing the intake manifold at some point for install. Not worth the risk to me of F'ing it up by trying to squeeze it in there otherwise. Which leads me to some downtime as I'd love to get the intake manifold blasted and powder coated silver (factory color) while it's off.

 

[runfor5]

Got the cowl off today in <20min. Oddly quick having never done it before, but watched the HawkeyeSTIGuy video on YT first. A few comments regarding his video...

- After removing the clips for the rubber seal (*90-degree pliers work brilliant btw), the hood cowl doesn't quite just 'come off' as he shows.
- It has very mild pop-clips holding it on on its windshield side.
- Starting at one end, I worked both hands on either side of the cowl gently rocking it from front-to-rear of the vehicle until they popped off. This is old ass plastic so be careful out there remember.
- Also, the rubber end caps remain on the cowl and come off with it all as 1 large piece. I have new OEM rubber ones that I'll probably end up putting on, along with all new clips I bought.

I would 100% remove this yourself BEFORE taking it somewhere to have your windshield replaced. I don't see how you could get the glass out with this still on there, as it comes up about 1" on the glass. I certainly wouldn't trust them to not F up this piece given the cars age now.

Hopefully all the weird permanent spotting on it come off with acetone. I'll get this painted in SEM Trim Black over the weekend - the last real plastic piece needing painting on the front-end!

 

[runfor5]

Cowl work ^ is still ongoing. My acetone wipe down trick didn't want to work; I presume too much embedded acid/silicone/etc. overtime given its a flat plastic surface? Not sure. Ended up lightly sanding it and to paint a 3rd time here soon.

In meantime, pursuant to addressing my ever-present passenger side valve cover gasket leak (which I've now attempted twice w different gasket makers lol - more to come), I installed a new turbo oil feed line + painted up the top side of the heat shield and some misc. hose brackets really cleaning up that side of the engine bay. Yay for the VHT Brake Caliper paint (rated 600 deg) which dries quick and doesn't flake off when you put a sock on the bolts like Rustoleum and Krylon have been doing to me lately.

Turbo oil feed line:
- Part #'s for reference below; minus the crush washers as I just bought a kit from FastWRX.com for about $115 earlier this year.
- Banjo bolts get torqued down to 11.6ft-lbs per internet. *I could not get a torque wrench on the lower bolt so just tried to match 'feel' with the top one.
- To get to the turbo oil feed line, you MUST remove the bracket holding on the up-pipe to turbo (PB Blaster soak it the night before).
- You do NOT have to remove the turbo coolant line nor reservoir tank to do this, nor drain your oil.

- BE SURE TO PRIME YOUR TURBO after install! Can't stress this enough given the air gap you created by pulling the oil feed line. Pull the 15amp fuse in the box to the left of clutch pedal inside the car labeled "IGN", then press in both clutch + gas and crank the car over for 5 seconds. Do this about 5 times, waiting 30 seconds in between each.

- Intercooler + turbo heat shield have to be removed.
- The YT vides for this online sucked, I took some vids on my phone, perhaps will post.

 

[runfor5]

As noted above, I had a time with the passenger side valve cover gasket... did it twice. Should have trusted my gut and gone with the tried and true Permatex from the beginning. The Hondabond (that Subaru ppl seem to fawn over) I purchased off AMZN I let cure for 30 hours (box says 16-20). Well, it f'ing leaked at the lower rear corner decently upon starting up; upon removal of the half moons it was still damp! POS.

Ripped it all back out, used Permatex "Ultra Black" (debated between that and the grey), waited ~40 hours this time, and knock on wood 50+ miles in I might be good. I used new OEM Subaru gaskets here, and the Becks/Arnley bolt gaskets (had some on hand from trying to fix a prior leak).

Comments on DIY Passenger side valve cover gasket [this is wayyyyyy easier than the internet makes it to be]:

- Undo the motor mount nut on the side you're working on, loosen the opposite side down to the bottom of its stud, and LIFT the motor up via transmission with a jack.
*This allows you socket access to each valve cover bolt incl. a torque wrench!

- Remove air intake box + ignition coil packs (12mm?) + 02 sensor wire (move it out the way (unplug it) after removing its related retaining bracket attached to the rear-most ignition coil bolt).

• You DO NOT have to drain coolant nor oil! YT videos claim removal of the coolant reservoir above the valve cover gasket. Absolutely not.
• Insert half moons onto the head first, with a bead of sealant applied first in the half moons groove. Be sure to PUSH THEM IN so they seat flush with the edge of the head; you will notice at first it will not on its own.

• [Pic #3 below] Spread some sealant nicely above and below the half moons on the head surface.
• [Pic #4] Since this was my 2nd attempt and I was pissed, I went for it and applied sealant into the valve cover beneath where the gasket sits. This is not per the service manual but I wanted the more the merrier at this point in time.
• [Pic #5] Per service manual online, the spots I have sealant over the gasket (once inserted into valve cover) are where you must put it.
• Once valve cover is placed on, hand thread in each of the valve cover bolts. If using Permatex, wait 1 hour, then using a 1/4 drive torque wrench, I torqued each to 5ft-lbs [4.6ft-lbs per service manual].
• *Torque bolts in the correct pattern! Front middle > Rear middle > Center top > Center bottom > Front top > Rear bottom > Front bottom > Rear top.

- [Pic #6] I took a finger and spread even more sealant (again, should not be necessary) over the half moon openings at top and bottom.

[Pic #1] I went with the IAG aluminum half moons. $65. Better than plastic.

Cleaned/painted the valve cover while it was off. VHT brake caliper temp paint.

 

[runfor5]

Finally finished the hood cowl painting, and boy is it a satisfying before > after Not perfect by any means as the spots I sanded I didn't go up high enough grit so I notice up close in sunlight, but otherwise it's solid. And no, those are not wet spots in the 'before' photo; rather what I assume were sap/fallout/etc. spots from the last 20 years - hence why I noted in an earlier post my use of acetone didn't get them all out and I had to resort to sanding.

Put a new rubber seal on the windshield side [part #91414FE000], will eventually buy the hood side seal - $25 idk why I didn't buy at same time.

There are 3 different style clips holding the cowl onto the sheet metal:
1) Pink-male-into-white-female 2-piece clips in most all center sections (I re-used all mine so don't have part #'s);
2) Grey-into-black 1-piece clips on the far ends [#909130026]; and
3) Tabbed grey-male-into-female-side of black-male 2-piece clips on the 2nd-from-the-end spots of the cowl [part #91167AA000 into #91167A110].

Noticed a torn inner CV boot on drivers side few weekends ago, need to order a new boot and get to that here in not too long. The OEM kit was about $38. I also believe my oil cooler gasket is leaking again, so will do that again since only a $4 part.

 

[runfor5]

Was able to replace the Drivers-side valve cover gasket over Xmas break. It was not leaking bad like my passenger side was, more of a weep, but I had the ability to take the downtime to do this job. Painted the valve cover while off + the oil fill tube bracket.

New cylinder head vent separator cover [11831AA121] + gasket [11832AA031] + 3 new bolts [010406200] + new rubber vent hose [99071AB760], all installed while as well (have to come off anyways!). I used an OEM valve cover gasket [13272AA094] and spark plug gaskets [13293AA051], but for the valve cover grommets went with the Beck/Arnley ones [0396600] once again. I had 1 leftover IAG half moon I used for the bottom-most seal and an OEM one for the upper one.

- *Install steps and torque specs are the same as those found in my above post #32.

While waiting for the gasket maker to dry on there, I went ahead and painted up + installed 2 new bolts [57313FA001] (*note the factory red locktite-type stuff already on them) on the hood latch. I got them hand-tight - did not research torque specs.

And installed my new OEM positive battery terminal cover [81611AA000]. Old one was very grungy and wouldn't clean up. It's the little things

 

[silver_scooby]

It's looking very good now, nice.

 

[runfor5]

Decided, F it, buy them while I still could. Grabbed brand new headlights last week (the CAPA-certified Depo ones off RockAuto).

 

[runfor5]

Ordered a new coolant overflow tank (the plastic one attached to radiator on front drivers side) which comes w a new hose going from inside it to the radiator + the smaller 2nd hose that goes to the radiator right in that area too (labeled in the Subaru parts model as an "automatic transmission cooler hose" for some reason).

Short of replacing the radiator, which I'm not doing, I believe I have most everything else ready to go to not only switch over to the Subaru 'Blue' coolant finally, but also replace the remaining old rubber coolant lines I haven't done yet: the two aforementioned + turbo coolant line + both heater hoses.

 

[runfor5]

Still had the windshield washer reservoir off so I removed both washer pumps off it (gently wiggle them out as held in place by a large rubber circular grommet) and ran through the dishwasher 3x - bottom rack | 'normal' cycle | not high-heat | air-dry. Surprisingly worked halfway decent!

No longer sold OEM nor aftermarket from my searching so making due with what I have.

 

[bue car]

This thread is awesome! GD chassis FTW. Love all the PNs as well

 

[runfor5]

This thread is awesome! GD chassis FTW. Love all the PNs as well

Thanks! Figured it might help others, and helps me keep track of what I've done, who choose to go the OEM/mild restoration route and not mod the shit out of em lol.