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Boost leak test instructions

74K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  2:43AM  
#1 ·
i searched the forums and couldnt find any posts about instructions on performing a boost leak test, so i thought id post one showing everyone how i performed the leak test on my own car.


Items Needed:
2" PVC Cap
2" Double Sided Rubber Coupling (2" on both ends)
Valve Stem
Air Quick Connection (Female)
Air Regulator (It's not needed, but makes the process MUCH safer)
Rubber Plugs
Air Compressor
Screw Driver
Boost Gauge (optional but very handy)

Here is an example of the finished product. (I put the hose for extra play in the tight area of the engine bay, i had the extra time at work.)
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I forgot to take pics while actually performing the leak test so these will have to work, haha.

Steps:

1.) Remove Intake Elbow, and the intake box for some extra room. (if your going to be monitoring the air pressure in your engine via boost gauge then do not unplug your mass air flow sensor when removing the intake box. And if your not going to be using a boost gauge then disconnect your battery cables FIRST, THEN remove your mass air flow sensor.)

2.) Remove rubber line on your intake that is connected to the purge valve(your purge valve is the black circular object located directly to the left of your alternator), and plug the nipple on your intake with any type of plug (i used rubber vaccum caps).

3.)Remove rubber line that is connected to the BACK of the purge valve...this line leads to the intake manifold. Plug the metal nipple coming off the intake manifold, and make sure your plugs are secure. If you do not remove the purge valve when performing the leak test, then it will make a buzzing sound, which could damage the seats of the valve and ruin it.

4.) Install 2" coupling to the intake, and make sure it is secure. Instead of trying to fit clamps on my plugs and couplings, i decided to put zip ties on the end of them to make everything somewhat easier.

5.) Hook up regulator and air compressor to the valve stem on the pvc cap, and turn air compressor on. Slowly let air in with the regulator, and get someone to watch the boost gauge to keep an eye on how much air pressure is in the engine. Be very careful not to put too much air in your engine, as you can damage components. Keep the psi a little higher than what you normally run. For instance, if your going to be running around 15psi...then pump about 17-18psi. Many ppl suggest that you do not exceed 20psi unless you run this amount of psi normally.

Now just listen and spray soap and water on flanges, hoses, intercooler, ect...

Here's some more pics to help out along the way.

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Caps i use for plugs
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After performing the leak test, i found a HUGE leak at the manifold where i am leaking over half the amount of boost i am suuposed to be making. Going to replace gasket and see what happens.
 
G
#6 ·
So did you end up finding any leaks man? I got all the stuff at Home Depot tonight and ready to tackle it tomorrow. Interesting though, I put the stock BOV back on (had a hybrid 50/50) tonight to see if that was part of my problem too, and I noticed some oil residue on the BOV hose right underneath the throttle body/intercooler hose...and so I took it off and sure enough, there's a little split in the bottom of my tb/ic hose and I think that might be the leak...but I still want to test the intake tract too.

Where did you get the little vaccuum caps? I looked all over Home Depot for something to use and came up empty handed.

Stupid question time: did you take all the hoses off the turbo inlet hose and then plug the openings on the hose itself, or did you leave the hoses on but just disconnect that one purge valve and cap/plug it?
 
#9 ·
U can get a set of those caps from AZ or Napa. Even in Harbor Freight u can get a nice set of assorted sizes. We always keep one of those assortment vacuum cap boxes by the dyno.
 
#13 ·
i bought the caps in the local Oreily auto parts. I left the inlet coupling on the turbo, the only thing removed was the intake elbow right at the filter. Dont forget to remove the lines from your pcv valve right beside your alternator, plug both nipples that the valve ties into (one on the intake and one on the manifold.)
 
G
#15 ·
Do you happen to have any pics of the PCV valve plugged? What I mean to ask is, I know to plug the PCV valve nipple on the inlet hose, but what about the line you popped off the nipple, do you plug that as well or just leave it hanging there until you're done?
 
#14 ·
yea i ended up finding a huge leak at the intake manifold and am getting Corr performance to change the gaskets for me this wednesday. It was very easy and took under 20min to set everything up.
 
#18 ·
What a coincidence that nice boost leak tester you put together there looks identical to the DFCustoms boose leak testers on ebay that I sell.

Im not suprised, but all I ask is to give credit where its due.

I have been making boost leak testers for years. If anyone wants some boost leak testers with different options (tire valve stem, 0-30 psi gauge, 3" to go over the plastic intake pipe) send me an email at huth1913 @ hotmail . com or go on ebay.com and use key word "Boost Leak Testers"

Word from the wise, dont forget to remove your oil cap or the air pressure will build up in your valve cover and blow out your cam seals. It happens.

Dave
 
#20 ·
Just reading through this thread since I am about to do the test myself on my WRX, and I noticed that the OP removed and plugged the connection from the manifold to the purge value. I don't see why. The backside of the purge valve would in fact see pressure in the manifold during normal operation. Removing it from the equation would remove a possible failed/leaking purge valve from the test procedure.

And for further clarification, if you wanted to be doubly sure you weren't over-pressurizing your crankcase, you would simply remove and cap the nipple on the inlet that connects to the PCV (rear, side of inlet tube) and the nipple (lower front, side of inlet) that connects to the crankcase blowby hose, i.e. the one that spans across the TMIC.

Word up.