[Maximus1991]

Cleaning the original oil tube leaved some “crater” in the metal when I removed the rust. I dont know if I can feel safe with that, considering I will repaint high temp enamel, but it won’t change the fact the metal is thinner.

I am maybe adventuring into building my own tube with fittings from Earl’s Performance. Still don’t know if I can make it work.

I have to make sure of the stock -AN size, I am guessing -6 at the block line.

That fitting is advertised as carburator adaptor but I guess it would work for the turbo;

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[Maximus1991]

FA20DIT 2015+ wrx GT2259 oil feed line specs;

At the block line;
Line o.d is 1/4” so should be -4AN

At the turbo banjo;
10mm X pitch is tbd, not 1.25

Lenght of the turbo line;
Tbd

(I will be updating this post as I confirm everything) Any inputs are appreciated.


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[Maximus1991]

I personally don't know why the hell they would offer an updated part that doesn't fit at all.

Building new lines isn't too bad. I've done it numerous times in my jeeps because rust and jeep is synonymous.

Thats something I don’t understand also! It’s also frustating. The only way around is to replace the 127$cad oil line from the block.


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[Maximus1991]

Looking at it, it could be something as simple and cheap as a stainless steel brake line;

Still doing the brainstorm.

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[Maximus1991]

Pick up a flaring kit. This should be a piece of cake to build from scratch. You can just use a cylindrical object to form your bends.

Okai then, said like that, do you think I can just cut the excess and “reflare” the end pipe!?

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[Maximus1991]

What is actually different between the two?

1. The lenght of the pipe is longer.

2. The extra round “sleeve” at the tip of the nut is way too longer too. (Although this one is the easiest to cut)


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[Maximus1991]

Don’t worry, I am freak with contaminants, I was planning to do. But thats great you mention, if anybody go the same route.

My Rex is a 2016 with about 4 canadian winters, and this oil feed takes a beating down there with heat and salt. It could cause a turbo/engine failure in long terms. Especialy at the elbow very close to the turbo (more heat cycles)


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[Maximus1991]

On my journey to figure out something that works. I decided to try it with the extra length and maybe rebend a little if needed the brand new oem line.

My guess is that clearance will be minimal if none with an adjacent water pipe. If thats the only problem I can probably figure something out.

That would eliminate the steps of cutting the tube and making a new double flare.

In the photos; Green is showing the stock location original line which is now discontinued.

Red is showing path of the new oem replacement.

None of the picture shows the “on-turbo” exact location, that is just an estimation of the path. Handheld.


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[Maximus1991]

Cutted the tip so it fits the block hose.

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[Maximus1991]

Subaru dropped the ball with the updated feed line not matching. The best bet is repurposing your old fitting or having a custom line made using 4AN braided hose and proper adapters. I had a similar issue on my FA20 build and ended up using Earl’s parts with a 90° elbow to clear the water pipe no leaks since and easy future access.

I thought about doing something similar when I was into the work. But I didnt feel like spending on trials/errors about getting the correct set of fittings. Untill I figured out that cutting the tip of the new turbo line enabled me to hook it up to the old line from the block.

You mentionned 4an Line. Thats one piece of the puzzle, do you have more specs about each fittings you used to hook onto the hardline from the block and the turbo feed?
That could be usefull for someone else or in unknown future.
Thanks