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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Anybody ever eard of an aftermarket oil feed line for the 2015+ wrx?

I need a replacement oil line part#15192AA732

Subaru said it’s discontinued, replaced by part#15192AA760

Subaru dealer confirmed me with my vin# that is the case. Wanna know the good news? It’s not even close being the same, so what do you do with something so stupid?

Replacing the full line attached to the motor is sounding like stupid way to do it…


Edit;any inputs on the size of the an? Fitting would be great!

Recycling my original one will be plan b.


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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Cleaning the original oil tube leaved some “crater” in the metal when I removed the rust. I dont know if I can feel safe with that, considering I will repaint high temp enamel, but it won’t change the fact the metal is thinner.

I am maybe adventuring into building my own tube with fittings from Earl’s Performance. Still don’t know if I can make it work.

I have to make sure of the stock -AN size, I am guessing -6 at the block line.


That fitting is advertised as carburator adaptor but I guess it would work for the turbo;



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I personally don't know why the hell they would offer an updated part that doesn't fit at all.

Building new lines isn't too bad. I've done it numerous times in my jeeps because rust and jeep is synonymous.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
FA20DIT 2015+ wrx GT2259 oil feed line specs;

At the block line;
Line o.d is 1/4” so should be -4AN

At the turbo banjo;
10mm X pitch is tbd, not 1.25

Lenght of the turbo line;
Tbd

(I will be updating this post as I confirm everything) Any inputs are appreciated.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I personally don't know why the hell they would offer an updated part that doesn't fit at all.

Building new lines isn't too bad. I've done it numerous times in my jeeps because rust and jeep is synonymous.
Thats something I don’t understand also! It’s also frustating. The only way around is to replace the 127$cad oil line from the block.


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Pick up a flaring kit. This should be a piece of cake to build from scratch. You can just use a cylindrical object to form your bends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looking at it, it could be something as simple and cheap as a stainless steel brake line;


Still doing the brainstorm.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pick up a flaring kit. This should be a piece of cake to build from scratch. You can just use a cylindrical object to form your bends.
Okai then, said like that, do you think I can just cut the excess and “reflare” the end pipe!?



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Okai then, said like that, do you think I can just cut the excess and “reflare” the end pipe!?



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What is actually different between the two?
 

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1. The lenght of the pipe is longer.

2. The extra round “sleeve” at the tip of the nut is way too longer too. (Although this one is the easiest to cut)


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Yep, so you can cut the end on both, remove the fitting, put the old fitting on the new line and then reflare. Just make sure you clean up the fitting.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Don’t worry, I am freak with contaminants, I was planning to do. But thats great you mention, if anybody go the same route.

My Rex is a 2016 with about 4 canadian winters, and this oil feed takes a beating down there with heat and salt. It could cause a turbo/engine failure in long terms. Especialy at the elbow very close to the turbo (more heat cycles)


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
On my journey to figure out something that works. I decided to try it with the extra length and maybe rebend a little if needed the brand new oem line.

My guess is that clearance will be minimal if none with an adjacent water pipe. If thats the only problem I can probably figure something out.

That would eliminate the steps of cutting the tube and making a new double flare.




In the photos; Green is showing the stock location original line which is now discontinued.

Red is showing path of the new oem replacement.

None of the picture shows the “on-turbo” exact location, that is just an estimation of the path. Handheld.


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