Subaru WRX Forum banner
201 - 208 of 208 Posts
I was just reading reviews on this tire on tire rack. People seem to love it. It's a Grand Touring A/S. One guy put it on his BMW 840i xdrive and likes them. Another guy said they are better than the Conti DWS's in wet and quieter on smooth surfaces. What do you think of these:
Vredestein Quatrac Pro
The tests and reviews look good on the Quatracs. They qualify more as "All Weather" than "All Season", as they have the 3PMSF rating. I noticed the Michelin CC2s scored well on that same test report.



I can understand (from a legal/liability viewpoint) Subaru's need to equip the WRX with UHP, 150 MPH rated summer tires, but I'd rather have an option of a less harsh tire for everyday, year-round use. When I picked up the WRX and made the 120 mile trip back home I got out the tire gauge. I assumed they overlooked the tire pressure in the PDI, and left them at the transport pressure of 45+ PSI. Nope, 35 PSI as spec'd.
 
Discussion starter · #202 ·
I think my problem with all season tires is my last set still leaving a bad taste in my mouth. I had Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+. They were brutal, but some of the reviews actually compared their performance to lesser performing UHP summer tires. They were more or less designed to get by in the winter, but also used in the summer. They handled well, but god damn they were noisy. There was a night and day difference between those and when I put my stock 2018 Dunlops back on. I also wonder if one of the main reasons this car rides so much more comfortably is because of the 18" wheels.
 
Everything is relative. Harsh is an understatement for the 305 X 30 X 20" Supercar3 (rear) and 285 X 30 X 20" (front) on that ZL1. MRC or not, there was little sidewall to help with absorbing any bumps. The WRX was a bit jiggly but rode with more compliance than that fire-breather. I'm ridin' on some all-season rubber on the TLX. The ride is, frankly, exemplary. Next to the general nature of the car, tires are likely the most influential part of the ride (A CLS450 rides better than a WRX - tires be d@mned).
 
I keep thinking there must be a lot of variance in production, too much saki flowing or something because I just bought a used White '23 Premium (HK stereo and short shifter) with 21k miles and some of the comments simply don't sound like the same car. I chose a used' 23 because I didn't want the PITA to disable every time I start the car Nanny Eyesight system.

Otherwise, I would have preferred a '25 Limited or TS (latter way too much $$$ as I was thinking of an Acura Integra Type S slightly used in that range, but the 680 pound weight limit and more to the point, low 4" ground clearance meant I'd probably have to have my driveway modified to no drag the front lip and exhaust on it. That cost them a sale. The regular Integra 5.1 inch height would have sold the car.

I've had a 2004 WRX Wagon (White), a 2011 WRX Limited (Charcoal Grey) and I just came 10.5 years off a 2015 Forester XT (before those, a '93 ProbeGT and an' 88 Cavalier Z24) all manuals save the Forester, where it was the 5-speed or the turbo. I chose the turbo at the time.

Other than one song by Delerium (Rain Down) causing a speaker or door rattle in the front passenger door (Subaru is going to take a look next week when I get the blue footwell LED lights installed), the new Rex car seems rattle free thus far. It came with Continental Extreme Contact All Seasons (probably change before winter in Ohio here) and the road noise is nothing compared to my noisy Forester (wind noise, tire noise galore).

It's by far the most quiet Subaru interior I've had in that regard. It is almost as loud as that SPT exhaust on startup (not quite; the Subaru building would shake and everyone in the waiting room would turn to look when my car was ready from an oil change and so I knew it was mine), but at highway speeds, you can barely hear the engine in 6th gear, unlike the 2011 constant drone in 5th gear. I think it has a nice balance, but then engine noise was never really a big deal to me. Others around me seemed to like that SPT exhaust better than I did. It was definitely more V8 sounding to my ears, but I like to hear music, not drone.

The STI shifter is a mixed bag on the '23. It feels better than the stock '11, but still has some side-to-side movement the Kartboy bushings seem to clean up on the 2011. Sometimes, it slides smooth as silk into the next gear, mostly I fell a slight almost metallic 'bump' into a gate or something that makes me want to not quickly shift, but this motor has no rev hang so you have to shift quickly or you'll miss the rev match point.

One thing that puzzles me a bit is the throttle response. During Rev matching, it blips too easy, but once in gear, you have to really push on the peddle to get some juice (the Forester always felt like 75% throttle at 1/3 peddle to me). Reviews keep saying there's even maximum torque from 2500 RPM onward, but it feels like mush to me at those RPMs. I don't feel the massive turbo punch, but it seems you really need to push the pedal down to get a big pull.

The odd 9 o'clock start of the tach (used to 7) makes me think I'm at a higher RPM at a glance than I am. There's a noticeable improvement in gas mileage getting the engine down to 2k-2.5k cruising, but you're going to slog the engine at those speeds if you need to step on it so you have to downshift. The more even torque curves suggest the ability to leave it in gear, but then it starts to drone in the 3500-4000 range to just cruise at that.

The gears are too short for daily driving and a flat torque curve, IMO. I could easily get to 60mph in 4.7s in the 2011 because there was only one shift needed to get there. To even get 5.6s here, you have to add slip the clutch because time shifting is time not accelerating. It's not a question of power and more a question of wasting time shifting gears. That is why DCM beats a manual every time. Here, I question why even shift into 2nd. Redline 1st, go to 3rd and get to 60 in one shift. But there's that mush/lack of torque feeling in 3rd at lower RPMs. But I thought it was max torque at 2500? I'm not convinced, but then maybe I'm not flooring it.

Every other gear feels like a waste except to maximize the fuel economy for a given speed limit. 1000 RPM difference on average between gears? Why? You're supposedly at max torque to 2500-6000. WTF is the point in shifting to drop 1000 RPMs? If I'm at 6000 RPM in 2nd, 3rd will only give me 1000 RPM before I have to shift again. Going to 4th instead puts me closer to 4100 RPM but feels a little less natural.

The closer shifts make sense to maintain very narrow band torque curves (not applicable here) and for short shifting for fuel economy purposes. With this engine/tube, the gearing makes no sense to me. I'd prefer a 5-speed with closer to 1800 RPM drops and if it had a sixth gear, make it an extra overdrive for freeway cruising at 75+mph. Shifting just for shifting sake makes no sense to me.

Steering doesn't bother me so far, but the 2015 Forester had me used to electric steering. The seats are a bit tight in the bottom bolstering for my fat arse (time to lose some weight I guess). I might have preferred the lumbar support my previous two cars had, but lower back pain isn't a real thing with me yet. Getting up from 5.3 inches off the ground (plus seat elevation) is taking some getting used to I think my last two WRX were at 6.3 inches so a little easier. The Forester at over 9 inches was pretty much slide straight sideways.

Comparisons

The 2004 Wagon, which was my favorite WRX with zero issues and was so much fun. It had the stock exhaust (but a great Kartboy ultra-short shifter that felt more like an Atari 2600 joystick it moved so little) and it was stealth quiet in that regard. I don't recall any real rumble.

The 2011 Limited had the SPT exhaust and STI short shifter with Kartboy bushings, which took all the slop out of the shifter, but it felt like medium throw compared to that 2004 short shifter, which was just awesome. The car made me feel like an amateur. Despite 19+ years of driving only manuals, I must have stalled that car a dozen times the first six months, mostly in parking lots, but eventually I got used to it.

That reminded me of my Z24 when I was still learning to drive a manual (it had almost as unforgivable clutch and would stall under 6mph in 1st, but you got used to it. But I loved that Z24. 2500 pounds, 130HP V6. 0-60 in 8s in 1988 wasn't awful. Digital dash. Upgraded stereo with remote unlock alarm. A drunk lady totaled it in 2001....

I got a '93 ProbeGT used next for $5600 (just into my first post-college job). A mechanic friend of mine (who worked for Ford at one point) went over it with a fine tooth comb. I put a killer Alpine stereo with 12" sub in it that is still the best stereo I've ever had in a car (I do audiophile and Atmos home theater at home). Its transmission was my favorite. Despite being long throw, it could go 3mph in 1st with the clutch out without stalling. The clutch was light enough that traffic jams wouldn't wear your leg out regardless and it dropped like a stone between shifts (short throw probably would have helped, but it was so smooth I didn't want to mess with it). Just okay speed, but definitely a fun cruiser with that stereo and the pop-up headlights.

Really, it's too early to tell, but I'm at least enjoying shifting again. The Forester had paddle shifters, but they weren't super responsive, especially for making more than one shift. I also don't understand why they put them on the steering wheel instead of the steering column like Ferrari and others do that take them seriously instead of a toy after thought.
 
I keep thinking there must be a lot of variance in production, too much saki flowing or something because I just bought a used White '23 Premium (HK stereo and short shifter) with 21k miles and some of the comments simply don't sound like the same car. I chose a used' 23 because I didn't want the PITA to disable every time I start the car Nanny Eyesight system.

Otherwise, I would have preferred a '25 Limited or TS (latter way too much $$$ as I was thinking of an Acura Integra Type S slightly used in that range, but the 680 pound weight limit and more to the point, low 4" ground clearance meant I'd probably have to have my driveway modified to no drag the front lip and exhaust on it. That cost them a sale. The regular Integra 5.1 inch height would have sold the car.

I've had a 2004 WRX Wagon (White), a 2011 WRX Limited (Charcoal Grey) and I just came 10.5 years off a 2015 Forester XT (before those, a '93 ProbeGT and an' 88 Cavalier Z24) all manuals save the Forester, where it was the 5-speed or the turbo. I chose the turbo at the time.

Other than one song by Delerium (Rain Down) causing a speaker or door rattle in the front passenger door (Subaru is going to take a look next week when I get the blue footwell LED lights installed), the new Rex car seems rattle free thus far. It came with Continental Extreme Contact All Seasons (probably change before winter in Ohio here) and the road noise is nothing compared to my noisy Forester (wind noise, tire noise galore).

It's by far the most quiet Subaru interior I've had in that regard. It is almost as loud as that SPT exhaust on startup (not quite; the Subaru building would shake and everyone in the waiting room would turn to look when my car was ready from an oil change and so I knew it was mine), but at highway speeds, you can barely hear the engine in 6th gear, unlike the 2011 constant drone in 5th gear. I think it has a nice balance, but then engine noise was never really a big deal to me. Others around me seemed to like that SPT exhaust better than I did. It was definitely more V8 sounding to my ears, but I like to hear music, not drone.

The STI shifter is a mixed bag on the '23. It feels better than the stock '11, but still has some side-to-side movement the Kartboy bushings seem to clean up on the 2011. Sometimes, it slides smooth as silk into the next gear, mostly I fell a slight almost metallic 'bump' into a gate or something that makes me want to not quickly shift, but this motor has no rev hang so you have to shift quickly or you'll miss the rev match point.

One thing that puzzles me a bit is the throttle response. During Rev matching, it blips too easy, but once in gear, you have to really push on the peddle to get some juice (the Forester always felt like 75% throttle at 1/3 peddle to me). Reviews keep saying there's even maximum torque from 2500 RPM onward, but it feels like mush to me at those RPMs. I don't feel the massive turbo punch, but it seems you really need to push the pedal down to get a big pull.

The odd 9 o'clock start of the tach (used to 7) makes me think I'm at a higher RPM at a glance than I am. There's a noticeable improvement in gas mileage getting the engine down to 2k-2.5k cruising, but you're going to slog the engine at those speeds if you need to step on it so you have to downshift. The more even torque curves suggest the ability to leave it in gear, but then it starts to drone in the 3500-4000 range to just cruise at that.

The gears are too short for daily driving and a flat torque curve, IMO. I could easily get to 60mph in 4.7s in the 2011 because there was only one shift needed to get there. To even get 5.6s here, you have to add slip the clutch because time shifting is time not accelerating. It's not a question of power and more a question of wasting time shifting gears. That is why DCM beats a manual every time. Here, I question why even shift into 2nd. Redline 1st, go to 3rd and get to 60 in one shift. But there's that mush/lack of torque feeling in 3rd at lower RPMs. But I thought it was max torque at 2500? I'm not convinced, but then maybe I'm not flooring it.

Every other gear feels like a waste except to maximize the fuel economy for a given speed limit. 1000 RPM difference on average between gears? Why? You're supposedly at max torque to 2500-6000. WTF is the point in shifting to drop 1000 RPMs? If I'm at 6000 RPM in 2nd, 3rd will only give me 1000 RPM before I have to shift again. Going to 4th instead puts me closer to 4100 RPM but feels a little less natural.

The closer shifts make sense to maintain very narrow band torque curves (not applicable here) and for short shifting for fuel economy purposes. With this engine/tube, the gearing makes no sense to me. I'd prefer a 5-speed with closer to 1800 RPM drops and if it had a sixth gear, make it an extra overdrive for freeway cruising at 75+mph. Shifting just for shifting sake makes no sense to me.

Steering doesn't bother me so far, but the 2015 Forester had me used to electric steering. The seats are a bit tight in the bottom bolstering for my fat arse (time to lose some weight I guess). I might have preferred the lumbar support my previous two cars had, but lower back pain isn't a real thing with me yet. Getting up from 5.3 inches off the ground (plus seat elevation) is taking some getting used to I think my last two WRX were at 6.3 inches so a little easier. The Forester at over 9 inches was pretty much slide straight sideways.

Comparisons

The 2004 Wagon, which was my favorite WRX with zero issues and was so much fun. It had the stock exhaust (but a great Kartboy ultra-short shifter that felt more like an Atari 2600 joystick it moved so little) and it was stealth quiet in that regard. I don't recall any real rumble.

The 2011 Limited had the SPT exhaust and STI short shifter with Kartboy bushings, which took all the slop out of the shifter, but it felt like medium throw compared to that 2004 short shifter, which was just awesome. The car made me feel like an amateur. Despite 19+ years of driving only manuals, I must have stalled that car a dozen times the first six months, mostly in parking lots, but eventually I got used to it.

That reminded me of my Z24 when I was still learning to drive a manual (it had almost as unforgivable clutch and would stall under 6mph in 1st, but you got used to it. But I loved that Z24. 2500 pounds, 130HP V6. 0-60 in 8s in 1988 wasn't awful. Digital dash. Upgraded stereo with remote unlock alarm. A drunk lady totaled it in 2001....

I got a '93 ProbeGT used next for $5600 (just into my first post-college job). A mechanic friend of mine (who worked for Ford at one point) went over it with a fine tooth comb. I put a killer Alpine stereo with 12" sub in it that is still the best stereo I've ever had in a car (I do audiophile and Atmos home theater at home). Its transmission was my favorite. Despite being long throw, it could go 3mph in 1st with the clutch out without stalling. The clutch was light enough that traffic jams wouldn't wear your leg out regardless and it dropped like a stone between shifts (short throw probably would have helped, but it was so smooth I didn't want to mess with it). Just okay speed, but definitely a fun cruiser with that stereo and the pop-up headlights.

Really, it's too early to tell, but I'm at least enjoying shifting again. The Forester had paddle shifters, but they weren't super responsive, especially for making more than one shift. I also don't understand why they put them on the steering wheel instead of the steering column like Ferrari and others do that take them seriously instead of a toy after thought.
Thanks for a well thought out review.
I have the "twin" (2023 prem with the STi short shifter & SPT exhaust).
Many ppl rag on the STi/SPT mufflers, but I don't find them "droney" or too loud.
Even with stock mufflers, the "stratified warmup injection strategy" is loud, IMO.

My main gripe is that the adaptive suspension isn't offered except for the GT & TS trims.
The Oklahoma roads are a disgrace, pothole central. I'm not a Travis Pastrana wannabe when driving to the supermarket & back, and the "Buckboard" suspension is fine on the track, but I'm never on the track, and will prolly never go there.

Due to the poor roads, I upgraded to 18" Subaru Ascent wheels (18"X 8.5"). They have a load rating for a #6000 SUV, so they should be less likely to see damage than the OEM WRX wheels.

I run Michelin CC2s in the stock size. I had them on my previous Ascent for 18K miles, and never lost traction in either summer or winter, rain, snow, or ice.

I am happy with the purchase, but with the new higher prices ($42K+ for the Prem trim), I think they are pricing themselves out of the market. When I was shopping, I could have bought a 2023 Base for around $25K, OTD (I was tempted, but wanted some of the "extras")
Image
 
Thanks for a well thought out review.
I have the "twin" (2023 prem with the STi short shifter & SPT exhaust).
Many ppl rag on the STi/SPT mufflers, but I don't find them "droney" or too loud.
Even with stock mufflers, the "stratified warmup injection strategy" is loud, IMO.

My main gripe is that the adaptive suspension isn't offered except for the GT & TS trims.
The Oklahoma roads are a disgrace, pothole central. I'm not a Travis Pastrana wannabe when driving to the supermarket & back, and the "Buckboard" suspension is fine on the track, but I'm never on the track, and will prolly never go there.

Due to the poor roads, I upgraded to 18" Subaru Ascent wheels (18"X 8.5"). They have a load rating for a #6000 SUV, so they should be less likely to see damage than the OEM WRX wheels.

I run Michelin CC2s in the stock size. I had them on my previous Ascent for 18K miles, and never lost traction in either summer or winter, rain, snow, or ice.

I am happy with the purchase, but with the new higher prices ($42K+ for the Prem trim), I think they are pricing themselves out of the market. When I was shopping, I could have bought a 2023 Base for around $25K, OTD (I was tempted, but wanted some of the "extras") View attachment 340064
I don't know how the SPT exhaust sounds on the new WRX. It was impressive sounding on my 2011, but it did drone at freeway speeds. I did like how the 2004 and 2011 had a separate control for the subwoofer. This HK feels a bit backwards with just tone controls, especially with the passenger door rattling with some material.

As for the suspension, yes, it's pretty stiff, but railroad tracks aren't as bad as I remember them being on the 2011 and even though my Forester XT had a smoother suspension, it wasn't "good" on bad roads, certainly not like the Lincoln/Cadillacs some relatives owned (my dad's '78 Caddy was like riding on a cushion of air even over uneven sets of 4 tracks at once). I have been considering the Michelin CC2s for winter as well.

But yes, I would have loved to have the TS suspension and have the option of a nicer or stiffer ride. I'm not tracking the car, after all. That's why when I was looking at the Honda Type R and the Acura Type S, I wanted the Type S as it was a smoother ride (you could switch the module, though). I'm afraid my butt is too big for those extreme Honda bolsters, though and frankly, I'm not crazy about the WRX bolstering at the moment, either. It's tolerable, but not real comfortable. My 2011 Limited was leather and had give to it (tended to squish the bolster on it and the forester, but it was soft). I dont' remember having any issues with the 2004 seats, but I don't think they had large bolsters and I weighed 50 pounds less then.

I'm not sure if there's any other changes to my car either I'm not noticing. The engine compartment looks normal, but you never know with these as they don't need any extra hardware to tune more power, etc. Many say 1st gear doesn't have the "rocking" problem earlier models had, but I disagree. I get rocking about half the time in 1st, especially if I don't step on it or go extra slow (seems to want to rock in the mid-throttle range).

I have no idea if the gear shift "feel" is normal either. There's some definitely resistance sometimes and a "clink" feel that's hard to describe, like I hit the gate instead of sliding into it, but I've tried pulling a little further left/right and it doesn't seem to matter much. No grinding or anything odd, but reverse doesn't usually just slide right in. I have to jiggle it a bit. I used to just go up into 5th on the 5-speeds and then down if there was resistance, but there's nothing about reverse as it's in its own spot. Double clutching didn't seem to help this.

But then compared to trying to get into 1st on my Cavalier Z24 if you came to a stop and went to neutral like you should, it could be terrible to get into 1st, espeically if you were in a hurry. I found it was easier in traffic just to hold the clutch in. The throwout bearing got ticky/noisier over time doing that, but it was still working at 128k miles when a lady crashed into me and totaled it. The 2011 felt smoother, but I had Kartboy bushings and that seemed to make a difference.

This STI short shift was already installed so they probably used the STI bushings (or reused the old ones). It still feels better than the 2011 WRX did when I got it (they had to order the kit so I went on break-in vacation to Northern Ontario from Ohio and put over 800 miles on it driving around and so it was ready to go when it got back. It was pretty nice feeling after the install, but the 2004 had an ultra-short shift I really liked (but not enough to rip the STI one out and try something else. I never looked to see what brand it was or even if I could tell as the previous owner already had it and a corner pillar analog needle style turbo gauge installed, which I liked much better than this digital graph gauge).

I'd really like to order thoes aftermarket JDMuscle after-market LED headlights with the little turn-on animation, but then I keep thinking I can never see the daytime running lights while driving. The handbrake has to be off for them to come on and so I never see them. I guess I could see the animated startup if I used the FOB to unlock remotely instead of grabbing the door handle, but $1200 a pair seems a lot for a "bling" like animation.

Image


Image


Image
 
Yep, "To each their own". I see folks spending close to $300 for a weighted billet shift knob (with free advertising attached). Personally, I have better uses for $300 than some overpriced bling.

One "trick" I read on another forum, is to place your palm on top af the shift knob (rather than encircling it with your hand) and put a slight bit of downward pressure on it when shifting.

This sems to make the shifts, especially from 1 to 2, more "positive" and notchy than if you place your hand around the knob when shifting. Keep in mind this is a cable actuated shifter, so it will never be as positive as one controlled with solid steel rods.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MagnusX
201 - 208 of 208 Posts