Subaru WRX Forum banner

Which Stage Tune Do I Use W/Cobb AP?

1 reading
12K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  ProZach626  
#1 ·
Hey there everyone, recently picked up a cold air intake and I'm wanting to try and flash the AP on my own to the correct tune to save me a few bucks on some one else doing it for me. I have a modified exhaust system - resonator and muffler delete along with the upcoming cold air intake and a Cobb AOS.

I'm just wanting to know which stage tune I should set the AP at - if there is one specifically for my situation - or do I need to go get it tuned by some one else? I don't want to risk any motor failure to save a few bucks unless it's safe to use the programmed tunes on the AP.

Also to clarify, I have a 2012 2.5l Hatch - if that makes a difference.

Thanks guys.
 
#2 ·
There are no OTS tunes that support your vehicle.

I am not confident in this statement: I don't think the Cobb AP has support for your vehicle/ECU. You will want to call and confirm.

The larger question is: is it worth it? That's a lot to spend on not very much gain.

EDIT: I read your question as "2.5i hatch, but I realize that may be a L as in 2.5 liter. Clarify please -- is this car a WRX?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
#3 ·
There are no OTS tunes that support your vehicle.

I am not confident in this statement: I don't think the Cobb AP has support for your vehicle/ECU. You will want to call and confirm.

The larger question is: is it worth it? That's a lot to spend on not very much gain.

EDIT: I read your question as "2.5i hatch, but I realize that may be a L as in 2.5 liter. Clarify please -- is this car a WRX?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Yes it is indeed a WRX... I used one of the OTS tunes and I was told by a couple of guys from O'Reillys that they are "doodoo". I have a Cobb turbo Inlet on the way, so I'm going to install that and then get it tuned by a local guy that works at our Subaru Dealership as soon as I can. Not that any of this matters anymore as I already went ahead and tuned it myself, but I was able to figure out that I shouldn't be touching those OTS tunes. You live and you learn I guess haha!
 
#5 ·
Don't just have it tuned by someone you don't know. That's probably the very worst thing you can do, regardless of how qualified you think your tuner is. Don't listen to your friends or the dudes from auto parts stores. They're going to lead you down the wrong path based on ignorance. Do research here and in other forums. I would do a lot of homework and seek out a reputable tuner with a dyno. It would be worth making a few hundred mile drive if you plan on keeping the car for a while. If you can't find a tuner within range and you decide that you just can't live without a tune I suggest going with a Bren Tuning E-tune.

In order for a cobb AP tune to be applicable for your car you need to have specific parts, as Zax said. You can't just intall other engine moficiations and expect it to be safe. The Cobb stage 1+ SF Intake tune requires specifically a Cobb intake and nothing else. If you don't have a Cobb intake then get rid of it if you plan on going with the Cobb tune. Your exhaust work will be compatible with it as long as you didn't do anything to the downpipe. Anything cat-back should be OK.

You can even upload a Cobb tune to your car without any modifications. It's the Cobb Stage 1 map. For either the Cobb Stage 1 map or the Cob Stage 1+ SF Intake map, you'll have the option for 91 octane tune, or a 93 octane tune. The 93 will give you the most gains, but you cannot use anything less than 93.

Cobb tunes may give you more conservative power gains, but they do so in an effort to cut down on engine failures. I hear of people with custom tunes trashing their motors frequently, but I can't remember hearing it often with basic Cobb tunes.
 
#6 ·
Don't just have it tuned by someone you don't know. That's probably the very worst thing you can do, regardless of how qualified you think your tuner is. Don't listen to your friends or the dudes from auto parts stores. They're going to lead you down the wrong path based on ignorance. Do research here and in other forums. I would do a lot of homework and seek out a reputable tuner with a dyno. It would be worth making a few hundred mile drive if you plan on keeping the car for a while. If you can't find a tuner within range and you decide that you just can't live without a tune I suggest going with a Bren Tuning E-tune.

In order for a cobb AP tune to be applicable for your car you need to have specific parts, as Zax said. You can't just intall other engine moficiations and expect it to be safe. The Cobb stage 1+ SF Intake tune requires specifically a Cobb intake and nothing else. If you don't have a Cobb intake then get rid of it if you plan on going with the Cobb tune. Your exhaust work will be compatible with it as long as you didn't do anything to the downpipe. Anything cat-back should be OK.

You can even upload a Cobb tune to your car without any modifications. It's the Cobb Stage 1 map. For either the Cobb Stage 1 map or the Cob Stage 1+ SF Intake map, you'll have the option for 91 octane tune, or a 93 octane tune. The 93 will give you the most gains, but you cannot use anything less than 93.

Cobb tunes may give you more conservative power gains, but they do so in an effort to cut down on engine failures. I hear of people with custom tunes trashing their motors frequently, but I can't remember hearing it often with basic Cobb tunes.
Ok, this is what I wanted to read. So what I did last night was change the tune from Stage 1 + SF Air intake 93 oct to the 91 octane. I was getting the cruise like, traction control and check engine light - as if my gas cap was loose. This has been better so far and no codes are showing up. I'm assuming it's due to the fact that we don't have 93 octane in Oregon so it was throwing those codes..? I don't know for sure, but that's logically what I was thinking. I do still have my cats, but another thing I have a question about is if I'm running 92 octane with a 91 octane tune, is that going to severely mess with the system all that much? Gas is formulated a certain way and the system reads it a certain way, but is 1 whole octane going to cause a ripple effect?

Also, I did install a new Cobb tuning turbo inlet because my stock one had a crack/whole around the mount to the turbo. So because it is bigger and creating more air flow, is that also going to be a big factor when it comes to the tune? I'm just now starting to do some research on tuning softwares and seeing if I can start to learn myself - partially because I'm also interested in performance systems myself, so I think it would be a fun subject to go down. I know this isn't a day and night sort of thing and it will take awhile to learn, but it will be helpful in the end when it comes to knowing the performance of my car and longevity as well.

Lastly, I got my car tuned by Steve Hamann (I think that's his last name) he owns HMS? He works over at the Wilsonville Subaru here in - well Wilsonville haha! But I've heard some mixed reviews on his flakiness which I am now learning as he has blown me off twice for scheduling so I'm just done trying to give him business to be honest. I'd rather give it to someone who is going to get it done and not blow me off. But yes you are 200% right - I need to do my homework when it comes to this sort of thing instead of just taking first opinions. You live and you learn I guess right?

Thanks for the response.
 
#7 ·
As far as the turbo inlet goes, I would take the Cobb part off and find a factory part to replace it ASAP. You don't want any variant that will throw off the cobb tune. The only engine modifications you should have on your car at this point if you're running a cobb tune is the intake and your exhaust.

92 gas won't hurt the 91 tune. The problem is more when you put lower octane gas with a tune programmed for higher octane.

If you have a tune uploaded with the guy you talked about, I would ditch it ASAP. The tune is the most important thing.
 
#8 ·
Right now I changed the map he put on to the Stage 1 + SF 91 octane tune. Unfortunately I dont have the cash right now to get another stock turbo inlet at the moment, so I'll take it easy.

I'm paying attention to the numbers on my AP - boost pressure, fine knock learn, coolant temp, Injection duty cycle, AF ratio and one that I cant remember off the top of my head. AF cruises at the 14.7 range, max boost I've pushed out is 16.9, fuel injection is running so far the highest has been 88.7. I had to test it to see how it has been running and so far the numbers are showing that its stable. It's not a race car so I didnt expect too much to change, but you know just keeping an eye on it at the moment.

Thanks for the input!
 
#9 ·
Sounds good. Just either work toward that stock turbo inlet, or work toward getting a reliable tune. There are only a few places I would trust in the country to tune my car. But, I'll never be in that boat, since I plan to keep it stock! I still have an AP and Intake sitting in my basement from my 2015 STI. I refuse to get rid of it for pennies, just in case I ever get the urge to install it later, which is doubtful.