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Another revive post: saw the mention of the Valvoline warranty and looked at the details. For most of us, this will not work since they state:

"“Qualifying Vehicles” excludes: a) vehicles modified or used for any type of competitive, timed, or exhibition motorsports activity (e.g. racing, autocrossing), b) vehicles used for agricultural purposes, c) vehicles where the engine has been modified with equipment or parts that would void the vehicle manufacturer’s warranty,"

Nuff said. Apologies if this was mentioned before in this thread, unfortunately I wasn't able to find a function to search within the thread.
 
Hello folks,

Was hoping to ask for an oil recommendation as I am not really a car person. I have a 2018 WRX CVT. The WRX has 25,000 miles on it and it has been about 7 months, 2,500 miles since the last oil change.

Almost all of the recommendations i have seen are for manual transmissions, does the CVT change that situation?

From a bit of quick Googling it looks like I want a 5W-30 synthetic oil? How many quarts do i need and what is a preferred brand for long term engine health?

Thank you
 
The 0w20 is not chosen for its protective qualities…if my wife drove it primarily then I would stick with what’s in the manual…but she doesn’t.
It actually is. The weight of oil is determined for multiple reasons. Newer engines have tighter fits and run the oil system as a hydraulic system for valve timing changes.

When you use heavier oil it doesn't flow through clearances as easily so it takes the path of least resistance and that's not to the rod bearings. Higher performance engines, not the fa24, have larger clearances to compensate for growth under the heat.

What you are doing is limiting the flow and the cushioning capability of the oil.
 
It actually is. The weight of oil is determined for multiple reasons. Newer engines have tighter fits and run the oil system as a hydraulic system for valve timing changes.

When you use heavier oil it doesn't flow through clearances as easily so it takes the path of least resistance and that's not to the rod bearings. Higher performance engines, not the fa24, have larger clearances to compensate for growth under the heat.

What you are doing is limiting the flow and the cushioning capability of the oil.
So do you not recommend increasing the weight to compensate for heat shear?
I’m no expert but after reading numerous articles and literature on the subject I switch my oil to a 0–40 European formula in my 2016 WRX. I live in Texas so when the season changes for winter I do a change to the 5W-30 Subaru synthetic. I found a lot of convincing evidence at the time.
 
So do you not recommend increasing the weight to compensate for heat shear?
I’m no expert but after reading numerous articles and literature on the subject I switch my oil to a 0–40 European formula in my 2016 WRX. I live in Texas so when the season changes for winter I do a change to the 5W-30 Subaru synthetic. I found a lot of convincing evidence at the time.
Not specifically. I'm not a chemical engineer by any means though. Bob is the oil guy may have better info than me.

Again, if you are having that issue then yes. However most of us, and most modern oils, are extremely shear resistant and will remain so for the life of the oil. Older oils would have more issues with shearing as time wore on. These days not so much.

One of the big reasons people ran to brotella, including myself, was it's shear resistance common with diesel oils, low cost, and low winter weight for a diesel oil.

With oils like pensoil platinum using the correct weight shouldn't be an issue at all for 99% of drivers, even those beating the hell out of it. A dedicated track car where the engine sees hours under heavy load and higher oil temps, you may be benefitted by heavier oil.

The EJ and fa20f have never really had huge oil cooling issues. So it isn't likely the oil will be breaking down that easily.
 
Not specifically. I'm not a chemical engineer by any means though. Bob is the oil guy may have better info than me.

Again, if you are having that issue then yes. However most of us, and most modern oils, are extremely shear resistant and will remain so for the life of the oil. Older oils would have more issues with shearing as time wore on. These days not so much.

One of the big reasons people ran to brotella, including myself, was it's shear resistance common with diesel oils, low cost, and low winter weight for a diesel oil.

With oils like pensoil platinum using the correct weight shouldn't be an issue at all for 99% of drivers, even those beating the hell out of it. A dedicated track car where the engine sees hours under heavy load and higher oil temps, you may be benefitted by heavier oil.

The EJ and fa20f have never really had huge oil cooling issues. So it isn't likely the oil will be breaking down that easily.
Ok gotcha. I did read some of Bobs stuff at the time before making a change though I can’t remember if it was him or another source that said turbocharged engines shear synthetics down to half their weight by the time we do our normally scheduled oil changes and going up to a 40w along with using the European formula would provide additional protection. Again it has been close to 5 years when I read that so I could be a little off on details.
 
I’ve been an Amsoil dealer since 1996. I’ve put over 1 million miles on my vehicles since 1996 running Amsoil products. I wouldn’t run anything else. Plus—Amsoil invented synthetics.
They got that TV ad, "Amsoil runs on freedom" and it's utterly meaningless.

I don't like their marketing and I never found the product necessary given less expensive mainstream options in my location.

However, I called them on the phone and they were very nice and did give me the truth (one of their oils wasn't a Group IV or Group V synthetic, it was hydrocracked Group III or something to that effect, I can't recall now). Good straightforward customer service; marketing that just doesn't work for me.

I'm not the target audience I don't think.
 
I contacted the manufacturer directly when I had such a question. However, I have no idea who makes those oils, and the suppliers may vary.
 
I contacted the manufacturer directly when I had such a question. However, I have no idea who makes those oils, and the suppliers may vary.
Thanks. I think they're US/American based oil companies as the 3 brands I listed are American based. They're some of the most affordable oils 10 quarts for $38.99 currently. A few years ago it was 10 quarts for $24. and it's API SP Certified, latest certification. Resource conserving
 
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