My car is a 2011 Subaru wrx

 

Up pipe designed for an external wastegate, the wastegate, controller, custom tuning solution, the kit to disable the OEM wastegate.

With the modifications you listed its a poor spend of money in my opinion. The OEM doesn't start to show its weakness until a turbo back is installed and especially with a catless downpipe.

 

So I shouldn’t go with turbo back exhaust? Can I still do a external waste gate? I love the sound. I plan on a ebc to.

 

I would refrain from doing anything because of sound. It's typically not the correct path.

The external wastegate solves a problem with the overboost common with the factory turbo when paired with a catless downpipe. Without a catless turbo back an external wastegate setup is pointless in my opinion. Ranks up there with blow off valves.

The problem you are going to come across is fuel system capability. The system will be completely tapped out with the intake and turbo back thus requiring fuel system upgrades to even fully realize the power from just those two modifications.

You need to step back and look at what you have. A 10 year old vehicle that is likely in dire need of other more important maintenance. Number 1 being the timing belt. If it fails, you are looking at a easy 10k to repair that damage. The suspension is likely shot or close to it, and suspension bushings are likely there too. On top of those things you'll want to take a look at the hoses and accessory belt, all at their end of life after 10 years.

If you have no proof of any of this work being completed recently it should take precedence.

Once you are past all of that you need to have a goal in mind that isn't "cool people put this crap on their car". Engine failures are stupidly expensive and common. nobody wants to be 30k in on a 10k dollar vehicle unless it's a true passion project.

 

I have a brand new motor with 3,500 miles on it. Brand new stock turbo with piping. Brand new alternator, battery, new flywheel clutch system. New front and rear brakes, sway bar links, tie rods, belts and a new cold air intake. All of this is only 6 months old. And there is a ton of warranties on everything for 3 years, like motor, turbo and clutch set up.

 

What is your reason for doing this?

 

I bought the car from a dealer. I bought the car with 200 miles on everything. The dealer dropped like $10,000 before I bought it. That is why I bought the car mainly. 102,000 on the body now. I want to see if I can do a external wastegate?

 

I didn't ask for the car's history, I asked your REASON for wanting to install an external wastegate.

There is a very well defined progression of modifications and this one is pretty far down the list.

 

Sound of the external is awesome. I like it. I have a pro tuner that will do the tune if I go that route. Just seeing if I can achieve that route without damaging the car. Just asking? If not what about me throwing a catless uppipe? Do I need or would it help with headers to then?

 

If you are working with a pro-tuner, these are questions you need to ask that person.

They will have preferences based on their experience and available base maps.

IMO, you are a long way from needing an EWG based on the limited information you've provided here. The EJ platform is more than 3 decades old. Every possible permutation has been worked out with regards to modifications. There is a REASON for suggested modification paths and significant reasons against deviation from those paths.

In my experience, sound and appearance are the two primary reasons people irreversibly damage their cars.

 

Ok. So I’ll talk with my pro tuner. What about thoughts on the uppipe? Anything else? Do I need a ebc? Also what performance mods can I do next? Maybe give me 4 performance mods? Not a short sifter.

 

Up pipe isn't an issue on your car as there is no cat in the up pipe.

Outside of that. The Cobb stage 2+ is going to be about your limit until you get into fuel issues. Intercoolers can net you a little, but still fuel limited. Tgv deleted can net you a little but still fuel limited. Ebc is going to be tuners preference as at those levels the factory unit is capable enough. Start going further than that you are entering e85 territory and building an engine to hold the power.

This isn't the slap shit on go fast platform that the world thinks it is. Once you've got that stage 2+ new top mount, tgv deletes, maybe e85. You enter the situation where your transmission is running out of power handling head room. Even on the 2011 that's notably more durable than the older 5 speeds. It isn't the tank that is the STI 6 speed.

Let's circle around to the beginning. What's your budget on this? You can easily spend yourself into bankruptcy

 

^ Solid advice right there.

 

$2,500 right now. Every week maybe another $90.

 

Yeah. You are going to want to stick with what you have for a while. The price of entry into these cars is sky high plus the rice tax.

 

Alright I’ll do the catless uppipe and have the pro tuner do the rest. But first I have to see if that’s ok with my tuner. Thank you for the input

 

The oem one is catless.

Oh yeah. What about the Cobb turbo input tube? Can I do that? Also is there a plug connector for my egr plug for when I put that uppipe in? Or do I just buy the 2.2 ohm resistor?

The turbo inlet does have a tendency to tear with age.

You would first have to install an EGR system into the car. That would require custom exhaust, egr system, and ecu, likely an aftermarket custom ecu. At that point you can bypass it by installing the oem equipment back into the car.

Also what brand will be best for the uppipe?

If you are just looking to throw away money I am accepting donations. As mentioned before, at your point there is zero reason to replace it.

You are playing with fire. It's beyond simple to detonate an EJ when you have no idea what you are doing. This isn't the platform to just throw random bolt on trash at the car so you can have a sweet parts list with the most trendy brands among the list.

Stick with your stage 1+ Cobb setup. Save money because you are going to need it I guarantee that. That 10k dollar engine replacement is right around the corner for you if you keep going on with what ever it is your mind is doing. [

 

Oh yeah. What about the Cobb turbo input tube? Can I do that? Also is there a plug connector for my egr plug for when I put that uppipe in? Or do I just buy the 2.2 ohm resistor?

 

Also what brand will be best for the uppipe?

 

Sorry that was a auto correct. I was talking about the etg. My stock wrx comes with a cat after the headers before the uppipe. You can get up pipes that’s delete the stock cat.spot. I’ve read if you do a uppipe you need to jump the egt connector with a 2.2ohm resistor. Is there a connector plug made to do the jump or not?

 

You are confused.

The uppipe sits between the header and the turbo. Only 2L EJ205 WRXs and SOME early 2.5L Forester XTs have the cat in the uppipe. You are likely confusing the flex joint with a catalyst. There is no catalyst or EGT sensor in your car prior to the turbo. If there is, you don't have a 2011 WRX engine in your car.

 

Well damn. I do have a cat. After the headers which then connects to the uppipe. I have a oxygen sensor that was replaced before the cat. After the headers and I have a etg sensor to. So where would I find my engine code at?

 

I find that highly improbable.

But in interest of continuing the dialog, take a picture of what you see.

It's possible that someone has installed an aftermarket EGT sensor (if that's what you mean -- it's Exhaust Gas Temperature).

 

I’ll try and get a pic tomorrow. But I installed the oxygen sensor in front of the cat after the headers. It costed me $275 for that front o2 sensor. It goes header with flange. Flange cat flange. Flange uppipe flange then turbo. There is a heat Shield all over the header and cat. I wrote the egt wrong again. I knew it was exhaust gas temperature

 

It is POSSIBLE (and a very stupid move) that a previous owner installed a 2002-2005 WRX Uppipe in a poorly researched effort to "go back to stock." The old uppipes will technically fit.

If that's what has happened here, you should be asking bigger questions like what other stupid shit did a previous owner do to that car during their ownership.

 

Are you talking about the cross pipe?

 

What the hell. No it’s not the cross pipe. Where can I find my engine code on the motor?

 

I'm making sure. The one on the right is the header minus the up pipe. You have a collector, cross pipe collector and output to the up pipe.

Should be back of the motor on top by the bell housing if I recall.

 

Ok I’ll try and post the pics tomorrow. But those pictures above don’t look like mine.