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Master Of Pain said:
Read the first post again.
Ahhh, I missed that bit, sorry to be a pest. So which one are you going to keep? Aftermarket or OEM gutted? I'd be tempted to go with OEM to keep leaking problems at bay, and look stock.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
I didn't get the dyno on the stock unit as I gutted it prior to testing. The only other thing I am going to test is a bellmouth catless downpipe (bolt-in) vs. stock. That should leave in one cat to pass emissions with and plenty of flow.
 
WHO CARES????

thanks for posting results for the rest of us to see...wish there were more ppl like you....but someone help me out here....why the hell should someone buy a new up-pipe or gut theirs...the results SUCK perdy much nothing changed...i think i could do better things with $200 than buy a piece of metal pipe to put on my car..... it just doesnt make sense...
 
Re: WHO CARES????

jugger said:
thanks for posting results for the rest of us to see...wish there were more ppl like you....but someone help me out here....why the hell should someone buy a new up-pipe or gut theirs...the results SUCK perdy much nothing changed...i think i could do better things with $200 than buy a piece of metal pipe to put on my car..... it just doesnt make sense...
Are you kidding me? No cats in the uppipe allows your turbo to spool up faster, not to mention you don't run the risk of your cat breaking up and destroying your turbo as well as lowering your EGTs...those reasons alone are enough to invest in a catless uppipe or gut your stock one.
 
Re: WHO CARES????

jugger said:
thanks for posting results for the rest of us to see...wish there were more ppl like you....but someone help me out here....why the hell should someone buy a new up-pipe or gut theirs...the results SUCK perdy much nothing changed...i think i could do better things with $200 than buy a piece of metal pipe to put on my car..... it just doesnt make sense...
You must have missed the original post- he was comparing an aftermarket catless uppipe w/ a gutted oe (catless) uppipe. No comparison was made to a oe catted uppipe. The uppipe is worth 10-15 hp/ft lbs of torque, not to mention the other reasons verdugo mentioned.

The uppipe is at the top of my list as a must do performance mod.

Big Sky
 
Nice results! I could have just gutted my up instead of buying one. :eek:
BUT I wonder what would the difference would be if this was a high hp application...

edit: OUCH I didn't even look at how long ago he posted this until I remember he got an STI... STIs don't have a catted up. I have been cheated!
 
not to offend anyone, but the results look misleading to me. I mean it seems like the stock gutted pipe was done a day b4 the aftermarket one. Doesn't the ecu have to be reset, and the timing and a/f ratios be relearned b4 actually getting a normal power reading? I'd like to see the results of the aftermarket one 3 weeks after:).
 
Since the thread was brought back and hippy is skeptical, I was thinking that the 1/4 mile time seems high for just those mods. Also, as someone else said, the hp's to the wheel seem high also. If it isn't high, I'm getting a MBC as soon as I get a few extra bucks because that is all my car is missing and i don't feel like I can do mid 13's in the 1/4.
 
hippy78 said:
not to offend anyone, but the results look misleading to me. I mean it seems like the stock gutted pipe was done a day b4 the aftermarket one. Doesn't the ecu have to be reset, and the timing and a/f ratios be relearned b4 actually getting a normal power reading? I'd like to see the results of the aftermarket one 3 weeks after:).
Not necessarily. If the AM (advanced multiplier) was at 16 before the mod, there is no reason to reset it. If the AM was low, then yes it could definitely make a difference. Unfortunately, w/o a delta dash (or simialr logging device) most people don't have a clue where they are sitting at.

I still think the basic premise of this thread holds true, that removing the uppipe cat will deliver the goods- whether one goes w/ a gutted oem one or an aftermarket one and the differences between the two are likely neglible.

The 1/4 mile times do seem to be on the rather good side, but you never know.

Big Sky
 
"Not necessarily. If the AM (advanced multiplier) was at 16 before the mod, there is no reason to reset it. If the AM was low, then yes it could definitely make a difference. "

The way I see it is, the guy had the gutted uppipe on for a while, and braught it to the dyno. Then he changed the uppipe out and braught it back the next day. Now, when most people do an uppipe install, they remove the negative terminal from the battery because that is how most people start every install:). This would kill the multiplier, and this post was made b4 everyone knew about shiv's multiplying method, so I would still like to see the car at the dyno a few weeks later..... That's just me though. I guess it really doesn't matter either way, it's just giving people with gutted uppipes the illusion they are getting the same performance as buying an aftermarket one(even though it could be). I really think the test could have been done much better(no offense).

peace
 
I have been running a gutted OE up pipe for 5 months. I found an Sti up pipe for a good price. Anyone interested in the gutted OEM up pipe. It is still in my car now but should be out with in the week. PM me with an offer.
 
Richie03 said:
I have been running a gutted OE up pipe for 5 months. I found an Sti up pipe for a good price. Anyone interested in the gutted OEM up pipe. It is still in my car now but should be out with in the week. PM me with an offer.
Why are you going from a gutted OEM to an STi pipe?
 
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