I would like to see some photos.

It is a bold move to modify. I certainly wouldn't, but if it makes you happy that's what matters.

RE: Hood -- vents are likely cosmetic. OEM hood is aluminum therefore very lightweight. Carbon Fiber good is very unlikely to he any benefit and (unless painted) liable to look poor in a few years time.

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Those are great cars and you are way braver than I am modifying one. Those are the collectors models.

 

Funny how you kept your regular STi’s stock but now decided to mod the collector one but it’s good it won’t be locked in a garage and never driven.

I’d agree with @zax about the hood. Unless painted, the clear coat will yellow from the heat and look quite poor. I’d start with the ‘right’ upgrades like suspension, brakes, tuning etc.

All the best with the car and congrats

 

To be fair, there isn't many real upgrades to those brakes and the suspension is far more capable than anything reasonably available on the market.

 

Thanks for some replies, I realize how risky it is to modify it but at the end of day wouldn’t someone want it being a collectors item and built and assembled right at the proper place? But same time I will absolutely have a blast in her 😈 I already took it to Colorado in the mountains n California, 1 week trip, I had a few places in mind to take her too. What about exhaust work and intake on her? Tune? Boosting the turbo? Hmm any ideas

and yeah it’s funny how I didn’t mod the other stis for warranty but I also was too broke at time to think of anything to do first with that lol.

 

I realize how risky it is to modify it but at the end of day wouldn’t someone want it being a collectors item and built and assembled right at the proper place?

Nope. As soon as you make any changes, it loses all collector value. If you're going to keep it and drive it, then go to town. But realize that it will just be another modded WRX at the end of the day unless pristine.

 

You enjoy that car there are not tons of them out there.

You mod till your heart is full, but strictly value wise it destroys the value of the car.

If it's a driver who cares. If you value the investment hold back. Either way you've got your hands on a gem many people lust after.

 

Oh, man.. did you say 10’s?


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That is my impression as well. Not telling OP what to do, but if I were in OP's shoes I'd sell the S209 for the premium it's worth, buy a base STI and destroy the crap out of it (should be easy with all that extra pocket change).

 

Yeah.. OP wants a 10sec Street Car. The S209 was not built for that. Either track it like it was meant for or store it as a collectible.


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10 second 1/4 or 10 second 1/8? you should already beat 10s in the 1/8

In the 1/4 unless you are a perfect driver you are going to need probably darn close to 700whp to get under 11. At that kind of power you are into Dodge Demon territory. The demon would be magnitudes more reliable, streetable, and probably cost a touch less. I personally wouldn't waste 100k bucks on a subaru, but with goals like that its easy to get there. 10s is stupid ass fast people throw that number out there like its nothing. I doubt people have driven or seen a vehicle capable of that in person.

 

10s is stupid ass fast people throw that number out there like its nothing

I'm pretty sure most people throw it out there because it was in Fast and Furious.

 

You can run high 9’s in a Stage 2 RS3 with a proper launch. Costs less than $75k in most cases too. We’re obviously talking apples and oranges though. I guess I was over in the Euro Scene for a bit too long.
Anywho, not disagreeing with you in any way, 10sec is indeed stupid fast for the Average Joe, and you’re right, the people who throw that number around most likely haven’t been in or around something that quick.


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You can run high 9’s in a Stage 2 RS3 with a proper launch. Costs less than $75k in most cases too. These folks take a trip to the track, run what they can before they get thrown out, rinse and repeat. We’re obviously talking apples and oranges though. I guess I was over in the Euro Scene for a bit too long.
Anywho, not disagreeing with you in any way, 10sec is indeed stupid fast for the Average Joe, and you’re right, the people who throw that number around most likely haven’t been in or around something that quick.


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The highest whp I can find for an rs3 stage 2 is 570ish assuming wheel but probably crank, with a 3800lb weight including driver, fluids, and safety gear a perfect run i mean perfect, inhumanly perfect, you'd barely edge under 11. Like 10.98. Now if the rs3 is awd it's going to be slower.

I've been around a drag strip for a long time and go watch people run all the time and of all the cars down there no stage 2 anything is running 10s

After even further research no, generic bs stage 2 is not what they are running they need modified fuel systems and racing fuel or e85 to come close.

 

The Audi RS3 is AWD. Intake/Downpipe/Stage 2 Tune/E85 will net you a 10sec Run. Once you lose weight and add stickier rubber you can dip into 9’s.

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Stock fueling on E85/104oct and an OTS Map. There isn’t much CUSTOM Tuning in the euro scene.

Also, for ~$3500 you can grab an upgraded Hybrid Turbo and make ridiculous power. THAT’S when you start running into fueling issues.

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Yeah exactly what I said.

 

Which is exactly what I said initially.


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Not trying to bicker, cause you seem to be one of the few with a head on their shoulders on here, but 10’s are more easily attainable than ever. For relatively cheap too.


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That car is not what is accepted as stage 2 widely. It's like the toolbags that slap a blower on their jeep and call it stage 1.

You are past bolt on bs there and into fueling and race fuel setups. I've spent years visiting drag strips and have run a few times over the years and 10 second cars are few and far between. Of 300 people on a test and tune night 5 will be 10 second cars.

 

Stage 2, on the MQB Platform, is a Downpipe and Tune. It’s RECOMMENDED you replace the Intake, Turbo Inlet and Intercooler but not required. Obviously the more air, and cooler air, you pull in will maximize power. Those cars don’t run a MAF either, so their Canned OTS Maps are different. But yeah, a “Stage 2” RS3 running basic bolt-ons and E85 will run a 10sec 1/4 Mile.


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A stage 2 sti will make 1000hp with the right fueling tune and turbo.

 

But “Stage 2” in the Subaru Community doesn’t include a Turbo Upgrade.


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It doesn't in the rs3 community either because with my searches stage 2 is the downpipe and tune. It can support an intake but it is not part of the package, and neither is the fueling or ethanol/leaded fuel support.

 

Incorrect.
Stage 1 is JUST a Tune. Intake is optional.
Stage 2 is a Tune and the Downpipe is required.
You can add an Intake, Turbo Inlet, Charge Pipes and Intercooler to either without having to modify your tune. They power numbers advertised are with all supporting mods. Some Companies offer a “High Output/High Torque” Tune and those would require a TCU Tune or Upgraded Clutch. NA Direct Injected MQB’s can only up to like E60 where ROW Cars can run full E85. Turbo Swaps aren’t Staged, except for the RS3/TTRS when tuning with Unitronic, so once you go bigger you’re no longer “Stage 2” but Hybrid or Big Turbo.

Looks like IE Requires their Intercooler for Stage 2. That’s news to me.

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Can someone do a little math for me? What does it cost to take a 2018-2019 RS3 to be a reliable 10 second car? Please include the cost of the car. Same question for 9 second car.

What is the car like for a daily driver? How well does it handle being put on a road course (NCM Raceway or COTA, etc.)? What are the reliability projections at each point?

I'll leave behind the starting with a ~$65K Subaru.

 

Can someone do a little math for me? What does it cost to take a 2018-2019 RS3 to be a reliable 10 second car? Please include the cost of the car. Same question for 9 second car.

What is the car like for a daily driver? How well does it handle being put on a road course (NCM Raceway or COTA, etc.)? What are the reliability projections at each point?

I'll leave behind the starting with a ~$65K Subaru.

Roughly $5k in Parts/Tuning (Integrated Engineering) for the RS3 to run High 10’s. You can grab a Used RS3 for anywhere between $45-55k. Probably another $15k in parts (Unitronic/Iroz) to run Low 10’s/High 9’s.

Hank Iroz Daily’s his 9sec RS3. Takes his kids to school in the damn thing too.

The last time I took my S3 to the track a guy pulled up in a Stage 1 RS3 (UM Tune and E85 Blend) and ran a 10.8 his first pass.

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I don’t believe they’re known for their handling. I only ever see them built for Drag. Also, yeah, if you were to bring your car into the dealership for any service it would almost positively be flagged for TD1.


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So I spent some time talking to some guys today as well as doing some research about vehicle et compared to hp/ton and gearing.

I call bs on the youtube videos. Not only can I not get anyone i know who races regularly to verify seeing anything with power at the highest end of their claimed stage 2 hp come anywhere close to 10.99, nor could I find a set calculator that I could verify against known power and weight that suggested this was possible. One calculator said it can, but it also shows a known 8.34 second car hitting sub 8. Gearing matters but not enough to improve, only hurt.

Until I see this in person or I get real power numbers I don't believe it.

 

There’s a Woman Driving a Stage 2 S3 on 93oct with Full Weight running 11.4sec Passes. Verified with Slips and a Dragy. That’s not even an RS3.

Dyno Numbers really aren’t that big of a thing in the MQB Community. It’s definitely strange to see coming from the JDM World. It took me a long time to acclimate but those cars really put things in perspective.

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Like I said. Not buying it. Until I see this in person and can verify specifically the mods to the car im erring on the side of my experience and research as well as the educated input of people doing this for the past 40 years.

 

Forced Induction, AWD and a Dual Clutch Transmission make for quick 1/4 Mile times.
You should definitely check out any Euro Track Days if there are any in your area.


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I was just using it as an example since she continually posts her slips because of all the doubters. Just wanted to show what an S3 is capable of let alone an RS3.


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I understand that once you start tuning, things can get explosive. The new M139 2.0 Litre, 4 pot produces 382 HP and 354 pound feet in U.S. trim. The Euro only S - spec produces 416 hp. The AMG comes already plumbed with a second set of fuel rails and spark plug holes. I just don't have enough money to do a proper build and flush a warranty, on a hand assembled engine, in one fell swoop.

Just to restate, for the amount of money it takes to build a 10 second, one trick pony, with no warranty, sketchy reliability and questionable longevity, you can buy a brand new car, with a full warranty that includes track and strip duty, that runs 10 second quarter miles stock (yep no tire change needed - just really good mineshaft DA), tops out at 200MPH+ and does Ring laps in the 7:2X area. You can drop both the quarter mile time and the track times by simply changing the tires, even on the stock rims. All that with a three year, bumper to bumper warranty and 5 years / 60,000 miles on the powertrain

 

I’d have bought an RS3 last year but the dealer was disappointing.

AWD - great!

Staggered wheels with wider wheels where they belong (in the FRONT) — even greater!

Straight 5 engine? Take my money!

But they wouldn’t. They wanted to talk about my needs and options instead. Get to know my preferences. BS marketing crap. Waste of my time. I’m not about meeting people; in fact I don’t like the people I know already.

So I kept the money instead.