???? What's your oil temp then? Mine goes to 220-230F in summer with the oil cooler.
Depends. Gets up to 110+F around Lamar Colorado in the summer. When I smash on it at those temperatures, I see around 230-250 but I am running in excess of 140mph for several minutes when I see 250. It does come down as fast as it did on the old engine with the cooler in place. There are roads in Colorado with no one but you, straight, flat and freshly paved so it isn’t a regular thing but you can do it. LOL The cooler isn't really a cooler because the surface area doesn't have a lot of time to work on the crazy amounts of volume the pump pushes through it. I use Subaru synthetic and it is supposed to handle upwards of 300 F. Just guessing on that one because they don't tell you what oil they rebrand so I went with a generic synthetic temp rating. At some point I am going to put in a real oil cooler because I like my temps around 200 just for my personal comfort level. My tuner told me if I was worried about the temps to use 10W40 but I am worried that it would be too thick even hot to flow around the 8million feet of oil lines, channels and bearing surfaces on that small motor.
Before you put it in I suggest changing the pickup tube out with an aftermarket to prevent oil starvation. I think that is what contributed to my spinning a rod bearing a 140K miles on the old engine. I cleaned the hell out of it before switching it out (intake valves, exhaust valves, EGR system complete, replaced the timing chains, tensioners) I also put on an air oil separator to prevent it from pooping where it eats. Just a tip if you put in a block off plate on the EGR pipe where it comes out of the head you don't get a check engine light and can leave everything in place without gumming up the engine with waste gasses. A triangle gasket is in place and its held on by 2 studs with 10mm nuts. I changed the studs out with new ones about 1/2 inch longer than the original ones so I could put in 2 gaskets and the plate I cut out of 1/4inch flat steel. It’s easy to switch out before emissions testing putting it back to stock condition for testing. The only drawback is there is a bunch of stuff cluttering up the engine. That brings me to the last thing about a JDM engine. If you get a chance change out the o-rings for the water crossover on the JDM engine before putting it in because they don't make it easy to get to them without practically disassembling it. The worst part is the fuel lines are bolted onto that crossover making it difficult at best to remove without bending them.
Sorry I went way far on a simple response but just in case someone doing a JDM swap see's this it may help them to resolve problems I learned the hard way doing multiple times.
If your going to be dumb you have to be tough so that has made me the man of steel!