Does the car consume/burn oil? Do you have a lot of oil blow-by?

 

Oil level appears to be about the same level it was. It ran great. Sat for a week. And started it up and it does this. If I drive under boost, car runs great till I start going up a hill, etc that puts strain on the motor. Then it starts stalling and sounds like it wants to backfire. And of course the idle surges from 500-900ish. It does have a kill switch that I turn off whenever I shut the motor off. Could that reset the ecu? I tried swapping a different untuned ECU over and it ran the same. tried scanning with the COBB for codes but it just says none found. I'm about to rip my hair out.

 

Oil level appears to be about the same level it was. It ran great. Sat for a week. And started it up and it does this. If I drive under boost, car runs great till I start going up a hill, etc that puts strain on the motor. Then it starts stalling and sounds like it wants to backfire. It does have a kill switch that I turn off whenever I shut the motor off. Could that reset the ecu? I tried swapping a different untuned ECU over and it ran the same. tried scanning with the COBB for codes but it just says none found. I'm about to rip my hair out.

Re-flash the Stage 2 tune and log the following parameters on the AP:

Boost
Throttle Position
Dynamic Advance Multiplier
Feedback Knock
Fine Learning Knock
RPM
Calculated Load


Take the system out on the road and drive it hard. Post up the log file and link here.

 

When I got the car, it only came with a OBD connector and the V1 accessport. I reflashed Stage 2 and said "done". But have no way to log it.

 

Yeah IIRC you can't log with the V1 AP.

HOWEVER, you may still be able to log. If you contact Cobb, they may be able to get you up and running with AccessTuner Race, which can datalog.

 

Yeah it only logs boost. Which is 8-9 psi idleing, depending on the surging RPM.

 

Do you mean -8 PSI?

 

Yes, lol. Sorry.

 

What does your maximum boost read in a 2nd gear pull?

 

It won't even get into boost. It like slows down and then starts jerking if I try to give it more gas so I have to down shift to a lower gear so it stays out of boost and slowly take the hill by my house. If I try to keep giving it gas, it will go up to about 8-9psi. I havent adjusted the MBC, either....

 

OK, I would seriously suggest putting the OEM EBCS back on the car. Without a datalog, it's virtually impossible to diagnose anything. Follow my post below and contact Cobb.

 

Will do so. I'm hopeing it is something small. I believe the cable can be used to datalog straight to my laptop with Enginuity?

 

Kind of sounds like a bad fuel filter. I'd look at A/F learning and fuel pressure (with a gauge in the line temporarily).



Check for leaks in the intake track, make sure the filter box is closed, torn turbo inlet coupling etc.


(this in addition to what Zax is saying, not disagreeing with him at all).

No codes? That part seems bizarre.

 

Yes, no codes when I scan it with the COBB AP. I haven't tried a normal scanner though. I'm going to try the fuel filter tonight. I know it's one of the things that havent been checked yet.

I doused every vacuum line, every coupling, I'm talking everything with carb cleaner, and noticed no real change in idle, even though it was idle surging the whole time anyways. If it is a vacuum leak, it has to be one hell of a leak. I havent checked the gauge pod line but I would think being inside the car, you would hear it leaking but I'll check it anyways.

In the meantime, will try and find a way to datalog it.

 

Alright. I can log with rom raider. I really don't want to drive it, I barely got home last time over the hill hah. Are there options I can check off to look at during the oscillating idle that may show what sensor, etc is causing the problem?

 

Ran learning view and got a list of no memorized CELS but a nice sized list of temp DTCs

DTC TEMPORARY: P0500 VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR A
DTC TEMPORARY: P1591 NEUTRAL POS. SWITCH LOW INPUT (AT)
DTC TEMPORARY: P0480 RADIATOR FAN RELAY 1 LOW
DTC TEMPORARY: P0136 REAR O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
DTC TEMPORARY: P1230 FUEL PUMP CONTROL UNIT MALFUNCTION
DTC TEMPORARY: P0131 FRONT O2 SENSOR LOW INPUT
DTC TEMPORARY: P0132 FRONT O2 SENSOR HIGH INPUT
DTC TEMPORARY: P0037 REAR O2 SENSOR LOW INPUT
DTC TEMPORARY: P0245 WASTEGATE SOLENOID A LOW
DTC TEMPORARY: P1096 TGV SIGNAL 2 (OPEN)

I have a rear O2 fix in (I'm guessing maybe thats what the p0037 is for?
TGV signal 2 (open) has me wondering if this could be why the car won't boost and idles like ****... What TGV sensor would it be anyways pass or driver?

 

Sheesh.

Just to hazard a guess, if all that stuff crapped out at once, maybe a major connection in the harness got loose.

I'm wondering how you get a high and low input cel for the front O2 for example.

I'm almost wondering if the ECU bricked.

 

Its swapped. Its actually an RS. But 03 motor and ecu. So a lot of the bits like speed sensor and such are i guess typical with swaps. Tgv an O2 codes are odd. It has a cel "fix" for the rear O2 since it is catless(exhaust and uppipe)

 

Oh. That is a whole different ball game.

The front O2 and most likely the TGV should not be throwing those CELs as a solid assumption. The TGV issue would be involved in the idle issue likely, and generally running like crap, and the O2 would be more running like crap on top of that as your A/F is probably whacked. The front O2 is known to have a limited lifespan (~120K). The rear O2 is just a catalyst checkpoint - if the cel fix was working there should be no cel there. Also I thought Cobb disabled the common rear O2 CEL the fix is for, but the "malfunction" part makes me think that may be a different code.

 

From what I read, COBB didn't remove that rear O2 code. At least in earlier revisions. I'm 1.xx something.

I'll go get a new TPS sensor and try replacing the TGV that is easiest to get to. OR swap it for my TPS sensor, just to see if it clears that code up.

 

Be sure you deal with the front o2 code too.

 

So. Replaced my TGV sensor last night. Reset ecu and ran learning view again. Same code came up. Well I looked and somehow or another the sensor near the firewall was unplugged. So I plug it in. Bam code gone. NOW p1092 comes up. Which is TGV valve stuck open. looked into manualy moving it to see if it would. Stuck solid in the horizontal position. Freed it up and worked it back and forth and it finally started moving with no effort. Put the new sensor back on (making sure to preload it) and thats as far as I got. It said stuck open but if the tab on the ends is in a horizontal position, doesn't that mean the TGV is closed??

 

NEW ECU... no difference

Stupid question. But aren't a lot of my codes the same as what you get if the car is in test mode?
The fans and fuel pump would cycle in test mode, HOWEVER my fuel pump is hard wire and my fans are on switches. CEL light on the dash is most likely not working. Seems far fetch but my A14 orange wire could be grounding somewhere in the spaghetti wiring. Best way to bypass it? I'd rather just run a whole new wire than take apart that mess (ghetto, but if it work, I can deal with that)

 

Down to 3 codes and out of test mode now. Not as much surging idle but im still getting fuel cut at 3-4 psi. Waiting on my new fuel pump install kit to get here and ill put the new walbro in.

 

Glad to hear you are making some progress.

 

Sucksess!

It was the fuel pump. It had some nigerian pos pump in it anyways. The new walbro 255 is about 8 times louder. No issue gettting into boost at all now hah. Getting it pro tuned asap.

 

Awesome - it must be a big relief to get that all straightened out.

 

Oh yeah haha.