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How to safely clean an engine bay

274K views 82 replies 37 participants last post by  EdZ2  
#1 · (Edited)
I've been washing the engine bays of all of the cars I have driven for the past 25 years or so.

How did I get started? Isn’t this really bad for my car? Why did / do I bother?

I worked with a guy back then who was seriously obsessed with keeping his 1986 Thunderbird clean - way more so than I ever was or currently am. He popped the hood one day and I marveled at the near showroom appearance of the ~ 4 year old engine bay.

I asked the same questions many of you have about getting the various components and systems wet. The owner of the car was quite talented with most things automotive, especially the electrical systems as he was a professional car audio install technician with a high end audio shop. The sound system in that car was phenomenal even by today’s standards.

He was quite confident that the water would not cause problems. That engine bay got a rinse with nearly every car wash and a regular washing. I was still skeptical. I carefully tried it myself starting out away from wiring and the alternator gradually becoming more confident until the entire engine bay was squeaky clean. It looked great then and still does.

I’ve never had a problem with getting any electrical items wet – even a distributor. A modern engine bay is engineered to get somewhat wet during normal use. Assuming your engine bay is in reasonably good shape, with no defects in the electrical, crankcase ventilation and intake systems you will most likely have no problems as well. This works best and is easiest from when a car is new as dirt and oxidation never have a chance to start. Even an older engine bay can be transformed with a little extra work.

This is being provided as a guide only - I cannot guarantee you will not experience difficulties.

Wash your engine bay at your own risk.


This is what works very well for me …

Start with a cold engine. A warm or hot engine will cause any detergent you spray on to quickly evaporate. Letting it sit and soak is what gets things clean. I’ve never covered electrical components, but have put a plastic bag over open exposed conical air filters. Obviously do not spray liquid directly into the air intake. Use a garden hose with a variable nozzle to go from a fine spray to a concentrated stream depending on what you are hosing down. A pistol grip style of nozzle is the easiest and fastest to use. A high pressure car wash hose is asking for trouble. Common sense is called for here.

This the perfect nozzle imo. Plastic coated so it is easier to use in cold weather and has a rubber collar around the outlet to prevent damage if it makes contact with the paint. I just bought this to replace my worn out old one.

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I wash the underside of the hood first. I removed the fiber insulation the day I brought the WRX home as I have with all of my previous cars. I personally believe the insulation is largely for sound suppression. It becomes a dirt magnet if left on and seems logical to assume it also promotes heat soak. I have not observed any engine heat related effects on the exterior hood paint with four different cars.

Hose down the hood, fenders, windshield and engine hosing off loose debris. Spray liberal amounts of full strength Simple Green all over, especially in the inaccessible areas. You would probably see good results with diluted Simple Green as well. I use a quart sized commercial type variable nozzle spray bottle rather than one Simple Green is sold in – it’s much easier and faster. Hose off any overspray from the fenders as Simple Green is too harsh for polished waxed surfaces. Let soak for ~5 minutes or so. While I wait I have a few odd brushes I use to scrub around where I can.

Thoroughly hose off all areas (with common sense) until all traces of the detergent are gone. Some areas can take higher pressure, like the intercooler and around the firewall. Once the car / engine wash has been completed I take the car on a drive to heat and dry the engine bay out. I repeat this maybe four times a year – that’s all it takes to keep everything looking showroom clean. The WRX’s under engine cover does a great job in keeping dirt out of the engine bay. My previous cars without a bottom cover required more frequent washing to keep things as clean.

Happy bay cleaning. :)
 
#3 · (Edited)
#4 ·
04.SPT.WRX said:
Yeah ... why didn't I think of that? More images in the Pics link in my sig ...

A high resolution (2816 x 2112) image: http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m245/04sptwrx/2010/WRX_Misc/cf64dc91.jpg

It is best seen in person. :)
Remind me not to park next to your car @ CretinFest 2010; my engine bay looks nothing like that, and would feel quite inferior :sadwave:

The only thing that would make that engine bay look better would be a set of hood dampers (plus, it would make cleaning it easier, as well).
 
#5 ·
The only thing that would make that engine bay look better would be a set of hood dampers (plus, it would make cleaning it easier, as well).
I've thought of those, but not sure which ones would be best. The Tein's are the wrong color - for anything.

I've done well with an old broomstick as a prop rod when working on the turbo side of the engine.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Does taking that bottom engine guard have an affect on performance at all? Was told it allows more cold air in, is that true?
I think the engine bottom cover helps keep the engine bay clean. All of my previous cars did not have one and they required more frequent attention to keep them clean.

I'd guess the cover enhances cooling while the car is moving. Air is forced through the radiator without any turbulence from below. The lack of this turbulence probably makes for better aerodynamics increasing overall performance.

I've cleaned mine just using simple green and rags, always a little weary about hosing it down. With your advice, now I can get all those hard to reach places clean. thanks. poor pic quality. i'll have to take a more recent one.
Glad it worked out for you. A less than clean bay will start to look better each time you give it a cleaning.
 
#8 ·
I can attest to the fact that Bills engine bay really IS THAT CLEAN. I would pretty much fell perfectly comfortable eating food from his engine bay.



...Expect he would probably kill me for dropping crumbs in there. lol
 
#18 · (Edited)
Rewind to 7/2/03

I totally forgot about these images ...

This is the engine bay I had then - a 2000 Honda Prelude. Once again, TheJ would be proud to eat off of it. Zero aluminum oxidation - repeatedly cleaned with original Simple Green.

Image


Image
 
#20 ·
:rolleyes:

I really loved that car. Way more refined than the WRX, the OEM handling was superb. Long hood, short rear deck. I still pleasantly sigh when I see one.

Two problems arose:

  • I was too large to reasonably fit into it. A bumpy road would suddenly introduce my skull with the headliner.
  • It drank oil at the rate of 1 quart every 1000 miles. The dealer made TWO attempts to fix this. After which it gulped a quart in about 400 miles. And spewed droplets of oil rich exhaust residue all over the rear of the car.

Image


I traded this problem car in for the WRX I now love. Zero oil consumption at nearly 54k miles. :)
 
#21 ·
I honestly love the looks of the prelude. If she had a turbo, and RWD... I would've owned one.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Like I said ... I still pleasantly sigh when I see one. Absolutely gorgeous.

I traded that asphalt spray gun to the dealer I bought the WRX from. To this day I wonder what happened to that poor Prelude I fell in love with.
 
#23 ·
I just have never understood why honda made such a great looking car FWD and with such a pig of an engine.
 
#24 ·
Pig? :confused:

Aside from it being a torqueless wonder I thought it was most entertaining once it hopped onto the VTEC cam lobes. Pre VTEC was an exercise in patience waiting for some forward momentum.

The intake was a terrific noise maker. It really sounded great and was quite loud in the higher RPMs. I completely understand why WRX n00bs always ask about intakes.
 
#25 ·
160whp isn't exactly much of an engine... that car looked like a sports car. it should have performed like one too.
 
#26 · (Edited)
At the time of the 5th generation Prelude intro (1997) 160 was a lot of horse pressure. My stock 2000 Prelude (ironically OEM shod with RE92s) handled a lot better than the new 2004 WRX with the same crappy tires. The HP was bumped up to 200 after the into. Not sure of what year that was.

The 2004 WRX I bought required stiffer springs, fatter sway bars, a performance alignment, and sticker rubber to outdo the bone stock Prelude.
 
#29 ·
I got a question: Will regular cleaning of the engine and stuff, help keep down on rust? I live in the Chicagoland area of Illinois, and they use alot of salt on the roads so rust on cars seems to be a big issue around these parts. I don't have a WRX yet, but I figured I might as well ask, so I am prepared for maintenance and what-not, when I get one :)
 
#30 ·
Removing salt will cut down on rust, so yes I think it would help. We see a good amount of road salt in SE PA. This past winter was one of many nuisance snowfalls - just enough for the salt crews to do their thing.
 
#33 ·
Correct, and if you'd like you can scrub away at most of the motor or firewall (whatever is dirty) with a rag or brush and then spray it down.

Afterwards it really is a good idea to take her out for a lil spin just to let it warm up and burn off any excess water left over.
 
#37 ·