Hey I read on here how everyone is against the K&N filters due to the wetness of them but has anyone tried the Fram Air Hog? I read where it is just washable but you dont put any lubricant back on it. Just curious.
bikefreax
is the same as a k&n, except its orange and not red, and yes they sell a cleaning kit, you have to use oil on them because that is what traps and filters the dirt out, without it the filter (cotton) would be too porous, just be careful of over spray and saturation of oil, and check and clean your maf sensor( MAF sensor cleaner) when it gets dirty
There are indepth analyses of Fram oil filters floating around on the web. Nothing made by Fram will ever touch a car I own.
I have had a K+N in my car for 100k miles. I pulled the manifold about 3 weeks ago to do the TGV delete and discovered that the manifold, valves and the i ntake ports on the heads are clean shiny and look brand new. never had a problem with my MAF either. I've recharged the filter twice...still no problems. Read the directions. follow them.:screwy:
the dirtier the filter gets, the better it works. NO NOT clean it because it "looks" dirty. The dirt is part of the filter.
the dirtier the filter gets, the better it works. NO NOT clean it because it "looks" dirty. The dirt is part of the filter.
+1 one that i went to tour K&N facility because of SAE i got to see what K&N research do. And no the Air filter do not foul the MAF K&N tested that it is the manufacture who poorly design the MAF's. K&N not only develop there own filter but they go out and buy other manufacture air filters too and see how they are doing. They do alot of dyno testing to make sure the MAF readings are correct and doesnt harm it at all. The Fram Air hogs are very identical to the K&N filters. Just they use diffrent oil. The oiling of the filters is very important that is were it helps capture dust particles. One reason why K&N filters are Red is because of the oil they are using, originally they're white because it made of a cotton material. o yeah when the filter gets really dirty after a period of time and when u use the recharger kit to clean it the filter gets better because under microscopic view u can see little strands of cotton spliting all over the place because of the cleaning. It captures dirty more and there not a huge diffrent in air flow very tiny. SORRIE this is alot >_<!blarg said:
they put a red dye in the oil so you can see it when you're re-oiling the filter. that way you can make sure you don't miss a spot and get an even coat over the whole area...also, you should only oil the OUTSIDE surface of the filter (the input side, NOT the outpus side) to avoid getting oil on the sensor.dragonwrx1 said:
AND ALWAYS LET IT DRY FOR ALOT LONGER THAN IT SAYS!!!!!!!!! I didnt do that on my Matrix XRS back in the day... I had an Injen CAI with a K&N filter, I cleaned the filter and waited about double whatever it said, put it back on and started the car, then it bogged out real quick, it fouled the MAF, and after a day of driving it "trying to clean out the engine" It fouled the cat/midpipe. So I took of the intake and took the car in to the dealership, where I had a warranty replaced MAF and Mid/catpipe, it would have cost me over a grand.... So yeah lighly oil and let dry for a while.
On a second note I had the Fram Air hog in my WRX when I did the Resonator Delete Mod, the first week I had the car, and I noticed a huge difference! Just save your money and buy a Short ram.... :wiggles:
On a second note I had the Fram Air hog in my WRX when I did the Resonator Delete Mod, the first week I had the car, and I noticed a huge difference! Just save your money and buy a Short ram.... :wiggles:
yeah, you have to give the oil enough time to absorb into the fibers, and before you oil the filter make sure its dry (because you just washed it and its soaked with water!)...if the fibers are still wet...water and oil don't mix, and water is heavier so it will displace the oil (or keep it from getting into the fibers) and the oil will just float on top of the water. Then, once you coat a water-logged filter with oil, the oil will keep the water from evaporating so fast, and it takes even longer.
K&N is used on so many race cars, its not even funny... but I think its more a case of availability and variety of sizes. On that note, FRAM is also used on a lot of race cars. Anyways, the AirHog is just a wanna-be K&N for a little less money.
I've had K&N, FRAM AirHog, FRAM cheapy paper, HKS, and of course stock. I can't say I felt a difference, but I know I never had the K&N or AirHog properly dry before applying the oil. It seems you really must let it dry for a lot longer than they say. I just felt better running a dry filter, like stock, HKS or even the cheap FRAM one.
I've since purchased an intake... and its a BLITZ Stainless Steal one, so never do I have to replace it. Just blow it out with air and its good.
I've had K&N, FRAM AirHog, FRAM cheapy paper, HKS, and of course stock. I can't say I felt a difference, but I know I never had the K&N or AirHog properly dry before applying the oil. It seems you really must let it dry for a lot longer than they say. I just felt better running a dry filter, like stock, HKS or even the cheap FRAM one.
I've since purchased an intake... and its a BLITZ Stainless Steal one, so never do I have to replace it. Just blow it out with air and its good.
agreed, but it does speed things up a bit if you have to drive to work the next day.Trainrex said:IMO not good enough for a 20k boutique built race engine.
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