[tivenr]

The smoke was gray in color. The smoke and smell seems to be coming from somewhere around/beneath the throttle. I had a buddy look at it to help me identify where it was coming from and we started it up and revved it a bit. No more smoke but as soon as you start it the smell comes back very strong. He said the smell smelled electrical to him but we couldn't find anything.

My buddy's hypothesis is that the computer may have not been trained well enough to handle that kind of stress and was operating in an open loop allowing some raw fuel to come back and have a back fire. He's not a mechanic by any means but he definitely knows a lot more than I do. Anyone else think this may be the issue or is there more than likely something else that I should take to get checked out?

This photo isn't of mine but I've used it to try and show you where the smoke and smell came from.

same exact thing happened to me yesterday - white smoke. smelled like burned clutch, i turned the car off and let it cool for a couple minutes, then I disconnected the neg pole from the battery, presses the brakes a couple times, re-connected the battery and then started the car and drove home. I didnt want to do any more experimenting being that i was 35miles away from home. Anyone have an idea about the smoke? i dont think its something to worry too much about, but the smell is still there. It might be because it just impregnated everything in the engine bay with it.

 

[Lbleiweiss]

Hey guys just read this thread today if you reset a car with a protune flashed on the ECU *no engine management at the time of protune* Is there a way to transfer protuned map onto an AP and still be able to revert to stock like from the manufacturer?

If not, would reseting the ECU put my ECU back to stock?

 

[bhodgy41]

I know its an old thread but today i finally got around to resetting the ecu and after i did the one to upgrade the ECU and i had the e brake engaged rev'd it up over 3000 rpms let the clutch out and maintained while doing so my car began to smoke from under the IC in the turbo side it was a white smoke and of course smelt terrible anyone know what that may be? I literally just replaced my clutch last weekend car still runs fine after smoke

 

[8007]

I know its an old thread but today i finally got around to resetting the ecu and after i did the one to upgrade the ECU and i had the e brake engaged rev'd it up over 3000 rpms let the clutch out and maintained while doing so my car began to smoke from under the IC in the turbo side it was a white smoke and of course smelt terrible anyone know what that may be? I literally just replaced my clutch last weekend car still runs fine after smoke

Check back and see responces for other car with same smoke issue. Do a thorough visual inspection and let us know what you find. The other guy never did.

I'm assuming you didn't totally let the clutch out?

I'm also starting to think that maybe brake torquing is the way to go for some folks too. :tongue:

 

[bhodgy41]

yeah that must be it i didn't let the clutch out all the way cuz thats what it smells like since i just got my new clutch in it shouldn't be damaged to bad right? And if i didn't release the clutch all the way would the AM have worked like it should have.

 

[8007]

yeah that must be it i didn't let the clutch out all the way cuz thats what it smells like since i just got my new clutch in it shouldn't be damaged to bad right? And if i didn't release the clutch all the way would the AM have worked like it should have.

It was a rhetorical question. You are not supposed to let the clutch out all the way if you are using the "sitting still" method with the clutch, e-brake, and throttle.

If you are using the rolling method, then yes, the clutch should be all the way out.

What is "AM"?

 

[mrrolf]

I was in an unfortunate situation where I had to remove my ECU overnight. I'm assuming it was reset. I have a Cobb AP and a pro-tuned mapping on my car before I had to pull the ECU. Do I need to push the tuned mapping from my AP back to my car, or is it still there?
Thanks in advance.

 

[tayhadar1]

I was in an unfortunate situation where I had to remove my ECU overnight. I'm assuming it was reset. I have a Cobb AP and a pro-tuned mapping on my car before I had to pull the ECU. Do I need to push the tuned mapping from my AP back to my car, or is it still there?
Thanks in advance.

If it is a true flash, meaning you are not running the realtime version of the map, it will still be there. Resetting the ecu does not erase the map on the ecu, but rather the learning the ecu has done. For example your car might have a knock at around 4500 rpm, and over time your ecu will correct for that knock and pull timing. It also resets the IAM, Ignition advanced multiplier, to .5 (i think), and you want that to be one to get the best performance. That is the point of resetting the ecu, so you can get IAM back to one

 

[RLR257]

how do you know if you've done it right? i was trying to put on some headers about a week ago and couldn't get them on. after bolting the stock ones back up i noticed i had an oil leak coming from the turbo. anyway, i got the leak fixed, but i also had a CEL. i took it to get looked at and they told me it was the o2 sensor behind the cat, which makes sense now that i also have a catless downpipe. so i installed the perrin o2 simulator and the CEL is gone. i don't think the code is gone though. since getting the initial CEL, my boost has been reduced to 5 or 6psi, from 11psi and i have this high pitched sound coming from under the hood on the drivers side. it only does it if i drive it hard. doesn't do it if i rev in neutral, doesn't do it at a specific mph or rpm, doesn't change pitches with the rpm as it would if it were a boost leak. i think its the ECU or some part of the cpu robbing me of boost even though it doesn't really feel sluggish. is there a way to know if you have reset the ECU correctly?

or

do you think it's just a faulty boost gauge. i have an electronic boost gauge. do you think it could be the sensor for the gauge thats under the hood whining at full boost? it's also on the driver's side. just thought of it, maybe i'll retest without boost gauge powered and see what happens.

 

[8007]

Please move all non-ECU reset discussions to the appropriate forums (or of course....I'll do it for you!:tongue

 

[rr1911]

ttt for martin

 

[az_e11]

Re - ECU reset question

Just got a question, ive got a 1994 wrx and just wondered does this ecu reset also apply to these older models aswell or isit just the bug eyed 1s??
As my car was parked up for a few months and battery went completly dead and then I am sure the break pedal was pressed a few times while i pushed the car out the drive while it was not running and had on this dead battery.
I have now put in a brand new battety and now i get a cel light come on and it does not go out even after driving it, would this have any thing to do with a psobile reset, or does the whole reset not applly to this model?? just curious as to why im getting this light all of a sudden.

 

[8007]

A reset can't hurt to try. Totally different ECU's though, but it certainly can't hurt it.

 

[wrxmuch?]

Access Port ecu reset FTW!

 

[ayoraider07]

the smoke is definately clutch! anyway, I did the ecu reset and 3rd gear boost up...smoked the S*** out of my new clutch, car feels like its ready for nascar after the reset! I also had a cold air intake that I cut, its a short ram now, runs GREAT!

 

[Sinister]

the smoke is definately clutch! anyway, I did the ecu reset and 3rd gear boost up...smoked the S*** out of my new clutch, car feels like its ready for nascar after the reset! I also had a cold air intake that I cut, its a short ram now, runs GREAT!

Shweet. Which short ram u get?

 

[Broken_WRX]

I warmed the car up, disconnected the battery, pumped the brakes flashed the lights flicked the radio honked the horn etc etc then I recieved a phonecall so im guessing in all left the battery off around 12 mins.

Jumped out the car, plonked the negative back on, tightened it up, jumped back in the car, grinning with excitement, fired up the car slapped it in 3rd, took it to 3krm slipped the clutch, held the E-Brake on, the car dipped low the boost was flying, so I wound it up to 4-5krm to get more POOOOWWWWWEEEEERRRRR!!!!

Then HISSSSSSSS, brrrrrrrr, revs dropped to 4k then 3k, not wanting to leave boost I planted my foot flat to the floor, 2k 1k

Ok so be-it it probably worked....yeah .....right.......

Slapped it in first, took off got to 3k BOOST! 4K no boost 5k no boost 6K BOOST!

2nd 3k BOOST! 4K no boost 5k no boost 6K BOOST!

Etc etc throughout the gears.


So yeah, the turbos still spooling up because the induction kit is whoooooosssshhhhhing from 3-7k but it hardly shifts from 4-6k then it takes off again :rotfl:


Is it shagged?

 

[dttruax]

Will this method really work? Just wondering because according to another forum (ecu reset - Subaru Impreza Forum - WRX STI Rally Performance Tuning), they have a non volotile memory that won't reset when the power is disconnected. They recommend buying a cable to hook your computer to your ecu and use a free program called Romraider to reset everything. Just wondering what your thoughts are.

Also, what exactly is torque braking?

 

[mycologist]

Will this method really work? Just wondering because according to another forum (ecu reset - Subaru Impreza Forum - WRX STI Rally Performance Tuning), they have a non volotile memory that won't reset when the power is disconnected. They recommend buying a cable to hook your computer to your ecu and use a free program called Romraider to reset everything. Just wondering what your thoughts are.

Also, what exactly is torque braking?

I am sorry but I have no idea what "non-volatile" means technically in this context. I have read far more times that if you not only disconnect the bat. but drain the reserve power by pushing the brakes it will reset as opposed to this one post you link. However, this is some seriously old school thread and I have personally only used an AP or a cable and romraider myself. I didn't reread the thread but I am guessing they are talking about riding your brakes to get your IAM up after a reflash. Don't do that. You can set where your map resets to in the editor.

 

[Poohbear]

^exactly what is non volatile memory? I know what non volatile means, but what

Maybe he means ROM?

Although ROM and non volatile are not exactly synonymous lol...

I hope I dont have volatile memory in my ecu, end up giving my turbo cancer or something... :whoa: