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DIY Ceramic Thermal Coat

29K views 68 replies 13 participants last post by  mycologist  
#1 ·
Have any of you guys tried this ? http://www.techlinecoatings.com/Exhaust.htm

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Black Satin™ is the most advanced exhaust system coating available

Withstands 2000f temperatures

Easy to apply ceramic reinforced coating designed for high temperature applications

Reduces underhood temperatures, reduces exhaust manifold surface temperatures

Improve exhaust gas velocity, increase H.P.

Air drying, requires no baking, cures on car with exhaust heat.

these are the resutls that they advertise:
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#7 ·
VHT and some others make ceramic based paint that is rated high enough for the egts of our cars but I don't know how well their heat retention is, and for best results the paint needs to be oven cured for a couple hours, I used the spray on paint stuff on my intercooler
 
#10 · (Edited)
this sounds good:

http://www.speco.com.au/vht_flameproof.html#flameproof


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VHT FlameProof Coating will renew and extend the life of any surface exposed to extremely high temperatures. This unique coating is a matte finish, ceramic base silicone widely used by the automotive industry on exhaust systems and the aerospace industry for jet engines, re-entry vehicles, the Stealth fighter, B-2 bomber and other high temperature applications. VHT FlameProof Coating will withstand temperatures up to 1500ºF (815ºC) and is ideal for use on boilers, hot water pipes, exhaust systems, franklin stoves, heaters, barbecues, furnaces or wherever an extreme temperature coating is needed (* indicates colours that may fade at 1200ºF/648ºC). VHT Flameproof Coating only attains its unique properties after correct curing (refer to the instructions on the can).
I think that a couple of coats of that spray will do it for a Downpipe.


here is a direct link to the manufacturer http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/sfID1/1/sfID2/12/productID/38
 
#12 · (Edited)
this sounds good:

http://www.speco.com.au/vht_flameproof.html#flameproof


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I think that a couple of coats of that spray will do it for a Downpipe.


here is a direct link to the manufacturer http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/sfID1/1/sfID2/12/productID/38
No matter what product you use there is preping involved
http://www.speco.com.au/vht_faq.html

Surface Preparation: For maximum adhesion start with a clean, dry, grease free surface. Spray VHT SP-11 Brake Cleaner and Degreaser liberally over the area to be painted. Scuff any rusted or glossy surface with a Steel Wool or a 3M Scotch Brite padTM. Wipe stubborn areas with a dry clean cloth, spray again with cleaner, and let dry.

This same prep would work for the Blacksatin for a downpipe.The sandblasting is more for cast iron (turbos and exhaust manifolds).They don't recommend coating shiny suraces.For the Black Satin i bought a $15 hobby brush that uses a small compressed gas cylinder for propellent at a hobby store.
 
#11 ·
I agree. I used this "spray-on" with good results on my TurbXs DP. Has not flaked off, but I have no data to back up its effectiveness....
 
#14 ·
I've seen a couple versions of this. What I used was a spray-on, good to 1200 degrees. Its available at any Pep Boys. When I get a chance I'll post a picture of it. Cleaned the surface with standard Brake cleaner, "scuffed" with a fine grit sand paper, then applied 3 coats, 2 light 1 medium. Each coat 10-15 minutes apart, as specified. Looks great. Can was like 7 bucks
 
#17 ·
Note that I used 1/2 an aresol can and did 3 decent coats on an entire Turbo XS Stealthback....don't know how that compares...:cool:
 
#23 ·
Here's what I used. Its a Dupli-Color brand, available at you local Pep Boys, available in Silver, flat black, and Red:
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I used the silver version, here's what my exhaust looked like prior to install:
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And here's a link to read all about it:
Dupli-Color High Heat
 
#25 ·
VHT the EGT during hard driving is around 1400F and the dupli only goes to 1200F so get the 2200F VHT
 
#28 · (Edited)
Just bought some of the VHT stuff locally out of a Oreillys shop for $8.47 a spray can i definatly now have plans to do work to refresh my turbo and do my pipes.

I also have the option to get my pipes professionally ceremanic heat coated 60 miles up the road if i find parts to swap in thier place. :thumbup:
 
#31 ·
I hate to resurrect an old thread, but I want to know any of you guys that have used VHT... any success stories?

Finally got my TBE, and thinking of coating a decent amount of it. At least the whole down pipe if not the mid pipe too.

Someone post an experience/reviews. Thanks!
 
#32 ·
it is difficult to measure it with out a base temperature first. what I did was that I sprayed a 2 coats in the DP before wrapping it and then 1 1/2 on the DP wrapped i also put several coats on the heat-shield (cusco) on the side that goes facing (use masking tape to mtain the pulished metal look on the other side).
 
#33 ·
I heat wraped my down pipe. I like the results.

I was looking at some way of mabey sheilding more of the heat coming off of the turbo itself though. Is there anything I can do to a cobb heat sheild to have it thermaly insulated?

Were is the link to that guy on nasioc with a thermo dynamics scince project going on under his hood. :sadwave:
 
#35 ·
Every thing their saying is pretty what i think of this stuff overall i think the pipes get cooler faster after i shut the car down.

Id think though that just buying the headerwrap might be a better option though for conducting heat, theres even a thermaltec turbo wrap that wont cost a arm and leg for $37 shipped part#15003. Theres enough to wrap the turbo x2 times and a uppipe if you measure it correctly.

I used almost a full can of VHT on my down pipe once its had time to cure its starts looking like maple syrup you can see the pipe underneath the painting. Youd need about 3 cans to get a good thick coat over the Dpown pipe if you plan on useing it for heatwrap the costs will add up quickly if you keep buying this stuff.
 
#36 · (Edited)
Found a picture of my super16g before i ever installed it with the Extr Black coat when i started useing the VHT it had thinned out to the point where it almost was not even on the turbo, in 10 months time. VHt is holding up very thick on mys16g after a couple months.

This looks identical to my stock turbo with VHT this would be a good way to recoat your turbo.
 
#38 ·
The black part is for heat retention on the hot side. You don't want to retain heat on the cold side.
 
G
#41 ·
I wonder if anyone has coated the underside or left-hand-side or the entirety of their intercoolers with any of the hi temp ceramics in question here... I'm thinking when I take my IC off to clean it and put new Samco hoses on it, I might just give it a little painting... to help out with heatsoak... dumb idea?
 
#42 ·
Yeah, coating the IC has been bandied about a fair bit in the two years since this thread was last bumped.... ;)
 
G
#43 ·
thanks mycologist, and sorry to bring stuff back from the dead. I often have two-three options: post my question without research and get yelled at, do the research and sometimes not find the answer i'm looking for, or find a thread of the topic i need an answer to and bring it back from the dead. It seems I'm a little late to the WRX scene lol
 
#46 ·
No worries, you seem to be approaching modding your car in a good way regardless.

The best approach is to do the research and then post a new thread if you need more info. We try not to do too much search bashing here as long as you try a bit to help yourself. Bumping long runnng threads on the specific topic is also fine, but the people may be gone.

Coating ICs is a different question because you are trying to not limit heat transmission (or better yet facilitate it). Here are some threads to start:

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/engine-modifications/170456-thermal-dispersant-testing.html

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/engine-modifications/134311259-not-sure-about.html
 
#44 ·
The only parts you should even think about coating are the end tanks, and if you have a metal y pipe. That's it.
 
#47 ·
One of the problems I could see with coating a intercooler... it's great until the intercooler gets hot, but then it's difficult to cool because it traps heat in the metal... I know many people have coated their end tanks, but I think that coating the underside of the downpipe's heat shield is a better waste of that paint.
 
#49 ·
Yup,

That is why Grimmspeed in that link was testing a thermal dispersent, instead of a thermal barrier type coating.
 
G
#48 ·
Thanks to both of you. The more I think about it, it definitely seems like not such a good idea to paint my intercooler when I think about it. I'll just blast the Cobb heat-shield instead, haha. If I can ever afford to upgrade my turbo, I might even douse a layer of coating on the hot side of the turbo...
 
#53 ·
I think you want it to exchange heat as efficiently as possible regardless of heat soak. It may heat soak faster, but it will also cool back off faster and eventually will cool more if it is actually more efficient. I usually get away from lights before I get into it anyway though.
 
#54 ·
I think you want it to exchange heat as efficiently as possible regardless of heat soak. It may heat soak faster, but it will also cool back off faster and eventually will cool more if it is actually more efficient. I usually get away from lights before I get into it anyway though.
That's true... I think my next project may very well be an air/water heat exchanger though...

I found one on craigslist for about as much as an APS TMIC.. decisions decisions....