Hey guys, I got around to installing an amp and sub into my premium 2023. I didn't see much around, so I figured I'd take some pics and throw them up. I ordered a stereo harness so I didn't have to tap into factory wiring. Also, I tried out a little speaker wire to rca Jack Signal converter. (Usually, use a dsp, but I wanted to try out for simplicity sake). I put it all in a wire loom and taped it all up to where all I had to do was crimp the remote wire. I ran the amp power wire through the drivers side firewall. If you look up to the left while under the dash, there is a little cutout in the foam/insulation. Their Is a white plastic grommet a few inches up and to the left of that. Remove the side trim and couple carpet screws and you can peel up the foam/insulation a little and get your hand back there. On the outside, turn your wheel a little to get more access to the wheel liner, use a small screwdriver or bit in hand, and remove the back half and center screws/snap ins. Pull back the liner to expose the upper fender near the driver. You will have to gently pry back on the outer plastic fender trim to get the liner out and vice versa. Careful when pulling as you don't want to pull off much of the double-sided tape, and only near the bottom, two snaps, maybe. There is a white snap in grommet you can get to. It's tough, but you can squeeze the tabs and get it to push in. Then, drill it and snap back in with wire in place, I used a small drill bit, then a step bit as its awkward to hold and wanted it to be snug, didn't want any leaks. Then, wire loom it up run along inner fender and route to the battery. The top plastic piece above the fender will come off with 3 push Ins and give you the access you need. I also, loosely zip tied the amp wire to the where the hood latch cable is supported. Not tight at all, just something to help keep it from flopping all around. To get to the stereo, I pulled off the side trim of dash on passenger side. Then you grab the dash around the ac vent and pry outwards, kind of toward the center console till it pops out. Then slide to the left a little for 2 tabs and will come off. Radio trim, pull on both sides after removing 2 screws that you'll see. Be aware that the odometer needs to be unplugged as well. Then, 4 more screws for the headunit and voila. I unclipped the upper part of the stereo, 6 wires, I think, to lower the headunit and get access to the lower back. There is plenty of working room from there on. Fed power and remote along driverside and rca jacks and spare speaker wire since I was there on the passenger side. I routed the bass knob from under the rear door sill to the under seat bracket, then tucked wire behind center console. I hope this helps, and if there is any questions feel free!
Booher
2022 + amp install
Hey guys, I got around to installing an amp and sub into my premium 2023. I didn't see much around, so I figured I'd take some pics and throw them up. I ordered a stereo harness so I didn't have to tap into factory wiring. Also, I tried out a little speaker wire to rca Jack Signal converter. (Usually, use a dsp, but I wanted to try out for simplicity sake). I put it all in a wire loom and taped it all up to where all I had to do was crimp the remote wire. I ran the amp power wire through the drivers side firewall. If you look up to the left while under the dash, there is a little cutout in the foam/insulation. Their Is a white plastic grommet a few inches up and to the left of that. Remove the side trim and couple carpet screws and you can peel up the foam/insulation a little and get your hand back there. On the outside, turn your wheel a little to get more access to the wheel liner, use a small screwdriver or bit in hand, and remove the back half and center screws/snap ins. Pull back the liner to expose the upper fender near the driver. You will have to gently pry back on the outer plastic fender trim to get the liner out and vice versa. Careful when pulling as you don't want to pull off much of the double-sided tape, and only near the bottom, two snaps, maybe. There is a white snap in grommet you can get to. It's tough, but you can squeeze the tabs and get it to push in. Then, drill it and snap back in with wire in place, I used a small drill bit, then a step bit as its awkward to hold and wanted it to be snug, didn't want any leaks. Then, wire loom it up run along inner fender and route to the battery. The top plastic piece above the fender will come off with 3 push Ins and give you the access you need. I also, loosely zip tied the amp wire to the where the hood latch cable is supported. Not tight at all, just something to help keep it from flopping all around. To get to the stereo, I pulled off the side trim of dash on passenger side. Then you grab the dash around the ac vent and pry outwards, kind of toward the center console till it pops out. Then slide to the left a little for 2 tabs and will come off. Radio trim, pull on both sides after removing 2 screws that you'll see. Be aware that the odometer needs to be unplugged as well. Then, 4 more screws for the headunit and voila. I unclipped the upper part of the stereo, 6 wires, I think, to lower the headunit and get access to the lower back. There is plenty of working room from there on. Fed power and remote along driverside and rca jacks and spare speaker wire since I was there on the passenger side. I routed the bass knob from under the rear door sill to the under seat bracket, then tucked wire behind center console. I hope this helps, and if there is any questions feel free!
Attachments
I haven't replaced the factory speakers yet,but definitely plan to in the future. My bass knob isn't working, and adjusting the bass on the head unit sucks. Seems like different sources of audio have different volumes. For example, if I listen to satellite radio bass is great, bluetooth my phone and there's too much. So a bass knob is a must! I would use a loc for sure, just wanted to try this out to see of it would work cheap. You get alot more control from the loc dsp, that's what I use in my camaro. So cheap cheap road, get what I got, mid ground around 120 can get decent dsp loc, or expensive route and get an audiophile setup. Personally, I prefer the middle ground. Usually the shorter the distance of wire the better, so tapping off rear speakers would be fine too. Just didn't want to mess with any factory wiring.
You shouldn't have to tap into starlink at all. I used the breakout harness to tap into my speakers behind the head unit. Used a line to rca converter to send signal to my amp. You can tap into the front or rear speakers with that harness, so you have options. The only black box I can see in my pics is the kicker line converter, is that what you're referring to?
Oh I see it now, no I didn't touch that. Correct, I used both harnesses, one was for speaker outs (4 pair of them) and other was for the remote. I have a premium but tbh, I have no clue about the starlink. I simply pulled a speaker signal and remote power to my amp off of those harnesses. And hooked up my subs, sorry I can't help much, as that is beyond me. I don't understand why you would take the signal to the amp then back to the hu. Wouldn't you wire the speakers directly up to your amp? The point of the harness is just to get the signals to your amp, once it's at your amp, you should be wiring directly to the speakers. Idk I'm confused now, because normally you hook speakers straight up to the amp, I don't get why you would send it back to the hu after going through the amp. That would absolutely fry your hu among other things. The amp provides power to the speakers only, so wire should go directly to speaker.
Yup, tbh I'm not sure which speaker I tapped off of. I thought it was the front passenger, but I could be thinking if my camaro with active noise canceling crap. My converter was that little kicker guy. I normally use the lc2i dsp, but wanted to see how this cheapo worked out, and surprisingly it worked well. That sounds interesting and easier, I've always ran new wire since I was upping the wattage and didn't trust the factory wire. I get what you're doing now, that makes sense. I dont think it would be a good idea hooking them back up at the head unit for the exact reason you said, would feedback hu and mess it up. Maybe can interrupt the speaker wires before they go into the hu with the returning wire, but starlink could be going through it, ahhhhh, I see your problem with starlink now Sorry it took me so long to understand lol.
Sundown is definitely a great choice, and making your own box always seems to reap the most benefits. I've recently been trying to school up a little on tuning ported boxes. I've always been with the sealed box crowd for the better bass response and sound. It's pretty interesting and alot more involved than I thought. I can't wait to see your system, it sounds like you know what you're doing.
Nice, I'm glad it worked out! Newer cars are getting harder and harder to upgrade their stereos. I feel that was the best way to do it, I like the double rca method, I never thought of that, but I only did a sub. Definitely, will do that when the rest of the speakers get upgraded, good info in here.
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