Hey guys, I got around to installing an amp and sub into my premium 2023. I didn't see much around, so I figured I'd take some pics and throw them up. I ordered a stereo harness so I didn't have to tap into factory wiring. Also, I tried out a little speaker wire to rca Jack Signal converter. (Usually, use a dsp, but I wanted to try out for simplicity sake). I put it all in a wire loom and taped it all up to where all I had to do was crimp the remote wire. I ran the amp power wire through the drivers side firewall. If you look up to the left while under the dash, there is a little cutout in the foam/insulation. Their Is a white plastic grommet a few inches up and to the left of that. Remove the side trim and couple carpet screws and you can peel up the foam/insulation a little and get your hand back there. On the outside, turn your wheel a little to get more access to the wheel liner, use a small screwdriver or bit in hand, and remove the back half and center screws/snap ins. Pull back the liner to expose the upper fender near the driver. You will have to gently pry back on the outer plastic fender trim to get the liner out and vice versa. Careful when pulling as you don't want to pull off much of the double-sided tape, and only near the bottom, two snaps, maybe. There is a white snap in grommet you can get to. It's tough, but you can squeeze the tabs and get it to push in. Then, drill it and snap back in with wire in place, I used a small drill bit, then a step bit as its awkward to hold and wanted it to be snug, didn't want any leaks. Then, wire loom it up run along inner fender and route to the battery. The top plastic piece above the fender will come off with 3 push Ins and give you the access you need. I also, loosely zip tied the amp wire to the where the hood latch cable is supported. Not tight at all, just something to help keep it from flopping all around. To get to the stereo, I pulled off the side trim of dash on passenger side. Then you grab the dash around the ac vent and pry outwards, kind of toward the center console till it pops out. Then slide to the left a little for 2 tabs and will come off. Radio trim, pull on both sides after removing 2 screws that you'll see. Be aware that the odometer needs to be unplugged as well. Then, 4 more screws for the headunit and voila. I unclipped the upper part of the stereo, 6 wires, I think, to lower the headunit and get access to the lower back. There is plenty of working room from there on. Fed power and remote along driverside and rca jacks and spare speaker wire since I was there on the passenger side. I routed the bass knob from under the rear door sill to the under seat bracket, then tucked wire behind center console. I hope this helps, and if there is any questions feel free!
Booher
2022 + amp install
1 reading
Hey guys, I got around to installing an amp and sub into my premium 2023. I didn't see much around, so I figured I'd take some pics and throw them up. I ordered a stereo harness so I didn't have to tap into factory wiring. Also, I tried out a little speaker wire to rca Jack Signal converter. (Usually, use a dsp, but I wanted to try out for simplicity sake). I put it all in a wire loom and taped it all up to where all I had to do was crimp the remote wire. I ran the amp power wire through the drivers side firewall. If you look up to the left while under the dash, there is a little cutout in the foam/insulation. Their Is a white plastic grommet a few inches up and to the left of that. Remove the side trim and couple carpet screws and you can peel up the foam/insulation a little and get your hand back there. On the outside, turn your wheel a little to get more access to the wheel liner, use a small screwdriver or bit in hand, and remove the back half and center screws/snap ins. Pull back the liner to expose the upper fender near the driver. You will have to gently pry back on the outer plastic fender trim to get the liner out and vice versa. Careful when pulling as you don't want to pull off much of the double-sided tape, and only near the bottom, two snaps, maybe. There is a white snap in grommet you can get to. It's tough, but you can squeeze the tabs and get it to push in. Then, drill it and snap back in with wire in place, I used a small drill bit, then a step bit as its awkward to hold and wanted it to be snug, didn't want any leaks. Then, wire loom it up run along inner fender and route to the battery. The top plastic piece above the fender will come off with 3 push Ins and give you the access you need. I also, loosely zip tied the amp wire to the where the hood latch cable is supported. Not tight at all, just something to help keep it from flopping all around. To get to the stereo, I pulled off the side trim of dash on passenger side. Then you grab the dash around the ac vent and pry outwards, kind of toward the center console till it pops out. Then slide to the left a little for 2 tabs and will come off. Radio trim, pull on both sides after removing 2 screws that you'll see. Be aware that the odometer needs to be unplugged as well. Then, 4 more screws for the headunit and voila. I unclipped the upper part of the stereo, 6 wires, I think, to lower the headunit and get access to the lower back. There is plenty of working room from there on. Fed power and remote along driverside and rca jacks and spare speaker wire since I was there on the passenger side. I routed the bass knob from under the rear door sill to the under seat bracket, then tucked wire behind center console. I hope this helps, and if there is any questions feel free!
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Thanks for the write up! Did you you change out door and dash speakers yet? What are you thinking about for sub and the amp? I was just thinking about doing a wire from rear door speaker to a LOC and then into amp. Do you feel that grabbing signal off of back of head unit is better? Isn't it already processed by HU? It would be easier to just grab off of rear door speaker.......?
I haven't replaced the factory speakers yet,but definitely plan to in the future. My bass knob isn't working, and adjusting the bass on the head unit sucks. Seems like different sources of audio have different volumes. For example, if I listen to satellite radio bass is great, bluetooth my phone and there's too much. So a bass knob is a must! I would use a loc for sure, just wanted to try this out to see of it would work cheap. You get alot more control from the loc dsp, that's what I use in my camaro. So cheap cheap road, get what I got, mid ground around 120 can get decent dsp loc, or expensive route and get an audiophile setup. Personally, I prefer the middle ground. Usually the shorter the distance of wire the better, so tapping off rear speakers would be fine too. Just didn't want to mess with any factory wiring.
Hello: Do you or anyone else know if the StarLink module is that top black box in the one pic? I got the harnesses, and the sub is installed without issue. However, the fronts are different because you need to tap the output from the StarLink module because it runs through there to the speakers, and if you tap the fronts before the StarLink, there will not be any volume control. I have the harness but wanted some input first to see if anyone has done this. The schematic shows the fronts output is from the StarLink module. I wanted to make sure the top black box in the pic is indeed the StarLink module. Anyone with any knowledge on this? Do I have to actually tap the fronts output at the StarLink module? Thanks, Rob
You shouldn't have to tap into starlink at all. I used the breakout harness to tap into my speakers behind the head unit. Used a line to rca converter to send signal to my amp. You can tap into the front or rear speakers with that harness, so you have options. The only black box I can see in my pics is the kicker line converter, is that what you're referring to?
No. The pic with the HU on your leg: the HU is the bottom and on top is a black box that should say continental on it. I believe that’s the starlink communication module (as it’s called by subie). Ok, so did u also use the regular 6 and 10-pin harnesses on the back of the HU to get your signals from the HU front outputs? Because the harness I have can tap them on the back of HU, but I was confused because I read other people having problems doing that (no volume control), and the schematic shows that the fronts (including dash) speakers are powered from the communication module, not directly from the HU. If u have a base trim without StarLink then it’s not an issue, from my understanding. The higher trims have different wiring.
I'm hooking up a 4 ch amp for the fronts and rears. If you route the T-harness like you usually would, off the back of the HU, and feed the amp output to speakers back through the HU harness, the front outputs will go into the StarLink module and fry it. I can show you the schematic.
I'm hooking up a 4 ch amp for the fronts and rears. If you route the T-harness like you usually would, off the back of the HU, and feed the amp output to speakers back through the HU harness, the front outputs will go into the StarLink module and fry it. I can show you the schematic.
Oh I see it now, no I didn't touch that. Correct, I used both harnesses, one was for speaker outs (4 pair of them) and other was for the remote. I have a premium but tbh, I have no clue about the starlink. I simply pulled a speaker signal and remote power to my amp off of those harnesses. And hooked up my subs, sorry I can't help much, as that is beyond me. I don't understand why you would take the signal to the amp then back to the hu. Wouldn't you wire the speakers directly up to your amp? The point of the harness is just to get the signals to your amp, once it's at your amp, you should be wiring directly to the speakers. Idk I'm confused now, because normally you hook speakers straight up to the amp, I don't get why you would send it back to the hu after going through the amp. That would absolutely fry your hu among other things. The amp provides power to the speakers only, so wire should go directly to speaker.
Yup, tbh I'm not sure which speaker I tapped off of. I thought it was the front passenger, but I could be thinking if my camaro with active noise canceling crap. My converter was that little kicker guy. I normally use the lc2i dsp, but wanted to see how this cheapo worked out, and surprisingly it worked well. That sounds interesting and easier, I've always ran new wire since I was upping the wattage and didn't trust the factory wire. I get what you're doing now, that makes sense. I dont think it would be a good idea hooking them back up at the head unit for the exact reason you said, would feedback hu and mess it up. Maybe can interrupt the speaker wires before they go into the hu with the returning wire, but starlink could be going through it, ahhhhh, I see your problem with starlink now Sorry it took me so long to understand lol.
Sundown is definitely a great choice, and making your own box always seems to reap the most benefits. I've recently been trying to school up a little on tuning ported boxes. I've always been with the sealed box crowd for the better bass response and sound. It's pretty interesting and alot more involved than I thought. I can't wait to see your system, it sounds like you know what you're doing.
Ok. So here’s the update.
The front jumper wire from AutoHarnessHouse for the Telematics unit does not work.
So, I ran new 16g wires to all the doors and just ran the LC2i Main Output to the 4 ch amp. I used a single to double RCA on the left and right to the corresponding left/right of Front/rear of the amp. I have fader control because the dash speakers are still hooked up OEM. I didn’t do anything with the telematics connector/wires. All the OEM wiring is still as is from the factory. To change back to OEM, I just remove my jumper off the HU rear outputs and then plug the door speakers back into the OEM wiring, since I left it alone, so the door connectors are still there.
I just wish Subie wouldn’t do weird stuff with their wiring. They know people are going to put in systems, etc., so why bother making it so complicated. For me, if I would have known this, I would have just bought a Base trim instead of the Premium. I wouldn’t get the HK system because you can only get the HK system with a sunroof, which doesn’t make any sense.
Word of advice: Only tap into the rear speakers off the head unit and run LC2i or other high quality LOC. Also, don’t bother trying to use 9-conductor to run the amp outputs through the OEM wiring.
The front jumper wire from AutoHarnessHouse for the Telematics unit does not work.
So, I ran new 16g wires to all the doors and just ran the LC2i Main Output to the 4 ch amp. I used a single to double RCA on the left and right to the corresponding left/right of Front/rear of the amp. I have fader control because the dash speakers are still hooked up OEM. I didn’t do anything with the telematics connector/wires. All the OEM wiring is still as is from the factory. To change back to OEM, I just remove my jumper off the HU rear outputs and then plug the door speakers back into the OEM wiring, since I left it alone, so the door connectors are still there.
I just wish Subie wouldn’t do weird stuff with their wiring. They know people are going to put in systems, etc., so why bother making it so complicated. For me, if I would have known this, I would have just bought a Base trim instead of the Premium. I wouldn’t get the HK system because you can only get the HK system with a sunroof, which doesn’t make any sense.
Word of advice: Only tap into the rear speakers off the head unit and run LC2i or other high quality LOC. Also, don’t bother trying to use 9-conductor to run the amp outputs through the OEM wiring.
Nice, I'm glad it worked out! Newer cars are getting harder and harder to upgrade their stereos. I feel that was the best way to do it, I like the double rca method, I never thought of that, but I only did a sub. Definitely, will do that when the rest of the speakers get upgraded, good info in here.
Well, it didn't turn out like I wanted/hoped. The StarLink jumper from AutoHarnessHouse does not work.
So, since I already have an LC2i installed for the sub, I just used it's main output to the 4 ch amp. I then decided, since doing this, to run new 16ga speaker wire through each door and to the 4 ch amp. Thus, I bypassed the entire fronts, the OEM wiring, and StarLink. I left the dash mids coaxials installed and hooked up to the OEM wiring. This lets StarLink work without a red light of death.
So, everything works. It's just running off rear only for now. This entire audio system sucks balls. Subie really should use a car audio maker for the HU instead of this Denso POS. Why would a spark plug company know how to make a HU.
Continued problem with OEM HU.
1. No touchscreen beep when touching buttons. This randomly starts working if you turn the car off/on like 4 times
2. The audio output is 1/2 regular power randomly and will not have access to audio functions other than the EQ. all other functions like sound Restore, etc. does not even show up. Turning car off/on or off lock the doors and walk like 50 feet away for a few minutes sometimes will reset this and all the adjustments will show back up and be running at full power.
Those are the 2 main stupid things going on.
Subie has no solution except to replace the HU/screen, which is mandated d/t the class action lawsuit. No point to do this because the replacement units are the same as the originals.
So, my over fix will be to completely bypass the entire audio system. I will install a boat/mobile media center/receiver with pre-amp outputs. I can run carplay, etc. from my phone via cable or BT. The units are small. I can fit the unit near the 12v cigarette plug in front of my shifter. I can leave the BT for the car-phone for GPS. I'll leave the dash tweets plugged to OEM wiring so StarLink works; otherwise, I'll wire the dash tweets with the front doors for lower Ohms and then run an appropriate Ohm speakers for the StarLink and just stick them in the dash somewhere.
the receivers range from simple at like $150 to complex at like $700. I'll be looking at the $200-300 range. Ridiculous that for $300 I can bypass the entire system, yet Subie can replace this stupid ass Denso unit with a real HU made by a car audio company like Pioneer. Ya know too that you can get a $200 Pioneer HU with 4v-5v outputs with hi def and 6 pre-amp outputs with no clipping etc. Just doesn't make any damn sense.
I f I would have known all this stupid BS before hand I would have just bought a base instead of premium. I'll be trading it in for either a Lexus or a BMW in 1-3 years anyway, so my fix above is fine for now, and I can always plug OEM back in when I trade it in.
So, since I already have an LC2i installed for the sub, I just used it's main output to the 4 ch amp. I then decided, since doing this, to run new 16ga speaker wire through each door and to the 4 ch amp. Thus, I bypassed the entire fronts, the OEM wiring, and StarLink. I left the dash mids coaxials installed and hooked up to the OEM wiring. This lets StarLink work without a red light of death.
So, everything works. It's just running off rear only for now. This entire audio system sucks balls. Subie really should use a car audio maker for the HU instead of this Denso POS. Why would a spark plug company know how to make a HU.
Continued problem with OEM HU.
1. No touchscreen beep when touching buttons. This randomly starts working if you turn the car off/on like 4 times
2. The audio output is 1/2 regular power randomly and will not have access to audio functions other than the EQ. all other functions like sound Restore, etc. does not even show up. Turning car off/on or off lock the doors and walk like 50 feet away for a few minutes sometimes will reset this and all the adjustments will show back up and be running at full power.
Those are the 2 main stupid things going on.
Subie has no solution except to replace the HU/screen, which is mandated d/t the class action lawsuit. No point to do this because the replacement units are the same as the originals.
So, my over fix will be to completely bypass the entire audio system. I will install a boat/mobile media center/receiver with pre-amp outputs. I can run carplay, etc. from my phone via cable or BT. The units are small. I can fit the unit near the 12v cigarette plug in front of my shifter. I can leave the BT for the car-phone for GPS. I'll leave the dash tweets plugged to OEM wiring so StarLink works; otherwise, I'll wire the dash tweets with the front doors for lower Ohms and then run an appropriate Ohm speakers for the StarLink and just stick them in the dash somewhere.
the receivers range from simple at like $150 to complex at like $700. I'll be looking at the $200-300 range. Ridiculous that for $300 I can bypass the entire system, yet Subie can replace this stupid ass Denso unit with a real HU made by a car audio company like Pioneer. Ya know too that you can get a $200 Pioneer HU with 4v-5v outputs with hi def and 6 pre-amp outputs with no clipping etc. Just doesn't make any damn sense.
I f I would have known all this stupid BS before hand I would have just bought a base instead of premium. I'll be trading it in for either a Lexus or a BMW in 1-3 years anyway, so my fix above is fine for now, and I can always plug OEM back in when I trade it in.
Here's another update.
I hooked up a pair of 3.5" speakers in parallel with the dash speakers. Nothing happened. though all 4 speakers are working.
I then took my AudioControl LGD green and connected it between the rear speaker signal in and then out to the LC2i. So rear signal --> LGD --> LC2i. Now all the sudden the touchscreen beep is back and it is running at full power with all the audio adjustments available. This system is really messed up from the factory. I can't believe Subaru knows the HU has so many problems, yet keeps selling the cars anyway. Go figure that there is a class action lawsuit.
I hooked up a pair of 3.5" speakers in parallel with the dash speakers. Nothing happened. though all 4 speakers are working.
I then took my AudioControl LGD green and connected it between the rear speaker signal in and then out to the LC2i. So rear signal --> LGD --> LC2i. Now all the sudden the touchscreen beep is back and it is running at full power with all the audio adjustments available. This system is really messed up from the factory. I can't believe Subaru knows the HU has so many problems, yet keeps selling the cars anyway. Go figure that there is a class action lawsuit.
I bought a '24 WRX Premium 3 weeks ago and I have already replaced the crappy factory base (non-HK) speakers with some JBL clubs. I installed 3.5" in the dash, 6x9 in the front doors and 6.5" in the rear doors. I am still having the same issues with adding bass in the EQ settings causing distortion at any volume level above or at 22.
- Did you modify the harness that "autoharnesshouse.com" sent you? The one in your picture is a one-piece harness and the website has several separate harnesses.
- Your final post said that you installed some 3.5" in the dash - did you amplify them or need to? Any distortion in them?
- Did you modify the harness that "autoharnesshouse.com" sent you? The one in your picture is a one-piece harness and the website has several separate harnesses.
- Your final post said that you installed some 3.5" in the dash - did you amplify them or need to? Any distortion in them?
Hi Eugene I did not modify the harness. I only used the rear speaker harness, not the one that connects into the StarLink module. However, I have 2 amps now and 4 coaxials, 4 tweeters, a pair of mids, and a Sundown 12" sub. Both amps are being fed directly the OEM HU rear spk outputs directly to hi-level input of the amps. No StarLink red light, and my buttons still beep, and all DSP features are operational. However, I have found that the OEM HU ... all that DSP stuff must be kept turned off, and the bass in the 3-band EQ must be 0 or negative. If I even go +1, it distorts. The mid and treble work just fine. So, I'm using my amps' crossovers, until I get a DSP is a few weeks and put my 3rd amp in and add 2 speakers to the rear deck. So, total should be 19 speaker system.
19 Speaker??? Wow that is way to many for me! I just want the factory speaker locations to work and maybe later on add a Hub mounted powered JBL sub (Mounts to the spare tire).
As of right now my plan is to buy the Harness sets, wire them up to either a LC6i or LC7i (have not decided yet), then wire that to the Kicker 4-ch key 200.4 amp and back out to the speakers.
So to clarify your telematics and stuff plays through the dash speakers only. You have not wired those dash speakers up to amps at all?
What is the difference between a DSP and the line output converter?
I already spent $350 on the 3 speaker sets. I don't want to spend $500 on amps and the line output converter and all the wiring kits for them if I don't have to. I would rather spend that on the Hub mounted JBL sub. It is stupid that they made this radio without the necessary amplification to push speakers with all the EQ adjustments.
- Eugene
As of right now my plan is to buy the Harness sets, wire them up to either a LC6i or LC7i (have not decided yet), then wire that to the Kicker 4-ch key 200.4 amp and back out to the speakers.
So to clarify your telematics and stuff plays through the dash speakers only. You have not wired those dash speakers up to amps at all?
What is the difference between a DSP and the line output converter?
I already spent $350 on the 3 speaker sets. I don't want to spend $500 on amps and the line output converter and all the wiring kits for them if I don't have to. I would rather spend that on the Hub mounted JBL sub. It is stupid that they made this radio without the necessary amplification to push speakers with all the EQ adjustments.
- Eugene
Just finished an upgrade with new amp and speakers and wanted to correct the above post that caused me to doubt when there was doubt needed: specifically, DO BUY your harnesses from autoharnesshouse.com. Works perfectly.
2024 Premium. I installed MTX SS7's for the fronts and surface mounted the tweets onto the speaker grill in the dash. Ran new wire to tweets to speaker crossover, and used the factory wire for doors. MTX Thunder in the back doors. Used butyl sealant tape at the plastic Metra adaptors to metal door plus Kilimat inside the doors. And 6.5" speaker foam enhancer rings to seal to door. FYI, the positive on the factory rear wiring plug is reversed with the red wire as the negative, so switch the speaker-out wire at the amp. Used Nulth speaker wire adaptors for Toyota/Subaru
Need two wiring jumpers from autoharnesshouse.com, one for the rears from the HU and one for the fronts from the telematics. Takes a long time to splice in the speaker wire leads and returns so plan in advance before removing dash
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Used an Audio Control AC-LgD 20 on the front speaker out before the amp (ACM4.300.) You need the LGD-20 to keep Starlink happy. Don't need it for the rears.
Ran the battery cable through the empty grommet just above the hood release cable. Needed to loosen the drivers side fender cover to zip tie the cable and make pulling the cable easier. Puting it back required loosening the wheel well cover which is both glue taped on and panel clipped. Just need to losen a few of the panel clips and not pull off the tape to slide the fender plastic back in, but this was the hardest part of the whole install!
Took me the better part of three days including the harness making which was a full day. Besides the incredible soundstage and voicing, the biggest benefit is that the stock speakers were somehow mimicking the muffler frequency as mid bass. I was convinced I needed a new exhaust to get rid of the 1700 rpm drone. Now I hear the music and hear the exhaust seperately and both sound great! (not the cold start with windows down though, ouch!) The MTX have a very tight mid bass and for me I wouldn't add a sub due to the loud nature of the car, though the wheel well space is tempting! But then I'd want a DSP and so on...
2024 Premium. I installed MTX SS7's for the fronts and surface mounted the tweets onto the speaker grill in the dash. Ran new wire to tweets to speaker crossover, and used the factory wire for doors. MTX Thunder in the back doors. Used butyl sealant tape at the plastic Metra adaptors to metal door plus Kilimat inside the doors. And 6.5" speaker foam enhancer rings to seal to door. FYI, the positive on the factory rear wiring plug is reversed with the red wire as the negative, so switch the speaker-out wire at the amp. Used Nulth speaker wire adaptors for Toyota/Subaru
Need two wiring jumpers from autoharnesshouse.com, one for the rears from the HU and one for the fronts from the telematics. Takes a long time to splice in the speaker wire leads and returns so plan in advance before removing dash
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Used an Audio Control AC-LgD 20 on the front speaker out before the amp (ACM4.300.) You need the LGD-20 to keep Starlink happy. Don't need it for the rears.
Ran the battery cable through the empty grommet just above the hood release cable. Needed to loosen the drivers side fender cover to zip tie the cable and make pulling the cable easier. Puting it back required loosening the wheel well cover which is both glue taped on and panel clipped. Just need to losen a few of the panel clips and not pull off the tape to slide the fender plastic back in, but this was the hardest part of the whole install!
Took me the better part of three days including the harness making which was a full day. Besides the incredible soundstage and voicing, the biggest benefit is that the stock speakers were somehow mimicking the muffler frequency as mid bass. I was convinced I needed a new exhaust to get rid of the 1700 rpm drone. Now I hear the music and hear the exhaust seperately and both sound great! (not the cold start with windows down though, ouch!) The MTX have a very tight mid bass and for me I wouldn't add a sub due to the loud nature of the car, though the wheel well space is tempting! But then I'd want a DSP and so on...
Audio Contro ACM 4.300.
To be honest, the parts I had were to go into another car that I sold, and I didn't really think this out. I cut a plastic roll up cutting mat as a backer, and mounted the amp as pictured on the passenger side carpet/console. If I had thought this out in advance with a long enough battery cable and enough speaker wire, I'd have for sure removed the passenger seat and placed the amp there. But my goal was to just make a great sounding system, and not the best (ie, with sub + DSP.) As it is though, there is no issue with sand and other debris that is typical of the filth my carpet sees!
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To be honest, the parts I had were to go into another car that I sold, and I didn't really think this out. I cut a plastic roll up cutting mat as a backer, and mounted the amp as pictured on the passenger side carpet/console. If I had thought this out in advance with a long enough battery cable and enough speaker wire, I'd have for sure removed the passenger seat and placed the amp there. But my goal was to just make a great sounding system, and not the best (ie, with sub + DSP.) As it is though, there is no issue with sand and other debris that is typical of the filth my carpet sees!
I have my aftermarket amps and subs hooked up, need to go back in and take a look and occasionally I lose sounds on the entire drivers side which I’m assuming is a bad connection somewhere. But my big problem is that I have no backlighting on the head unit. The temperature buttons and volume knobs are not lighting up. Any suggestions or ideas what I did wrong or what wire i missed?
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