The exact number doesn't matter because you can get a 100whp difference between different dynos. Turn in concepts may say you are putting 240 but fly by night broski tuning says you are 340 because numbers sell.

Assuming everything else is bone stock you would probably get them all in the 1/8 the only challenge being the mustang that may still get you. 1/4 the mustang would probably get you. The guys are running low 12s in the quarter mile stock with the performance package which most of the mustangs I've seen have.

 

Thanks for the response. Thats what I was expecting, the v8's always have the top end. I had my first protune on a dyno jet, it was a very hot day and I got some crappy results for stage 2. This time around it might be on a mustange dyno or as the tuner called it "the heart breaker dyno". So the numbers will be lower but they said something about compensating for that. Not sure if that will affect the tune at all.

 

Fire recalls, loss of compression, endless incurable knock, components falling apart like dash knobs and steering wheel controls, oil consumption that rivaled loose oil filter.

It was garbage.

 

EA888 Golf Rs with mild bolt-ons routinely run 11s in the quarter mile.

I can't comment on Golf reliability. I've heard the full gamut but have no personal experience. The interiors are wonderful for the price.

 

My first thought is to keep the car stock. If you want a faster car, buy a faster car. There are configurations of the Mustang GT that run upper 11s right after break-in. These are equipped with a performance pac and 10 speed auto (don't ask me which flavor of performance pack - its a Baskin' Robins sort of line-up).

I would be hesitant to do very many dump the clutch drag starts with a Subie.

While you may get away with it a few times, you have pulled the pin on the grenade and it will go boom. ​

Some AWD cars are built for that. Most are not.

If you are visiting Mexico, then you have given up the AWD advantage if you are rolling.

Modifying a car is just a bottomless pit. I literally know folks that are putting out north of 1,000HP at the wheels. These cars run in the 9 second range for the quarter mile. They have full cages. They are street legal (drivable is a whole other question). 2650 Maggies, huge cams with fuel upgrades that cost thousands (just for the fuel upgrade). Then there is the Weld Racing wheel conversion. Those require a swap of brakes and brake rotors. Titanium and forged internals. Now you have drive line issues. $50,000 is a starter budget.

 

You bought the wrong car if you are just street racing in a straight.

 

You won't get anywhere near 340 whp on 93..max, MAYBE 305whp...Flex fuel will get you 360 to 400ish

 

It entirely depends on the Dyno and how it's calibrated.

 

I've been in this car game a long time..Im almost 50. I've done frame off restorations, engine builds etc..Yes, dyno's will give different numbers, but it goes like this..A dynojet requires much less "calibration" and input from the operator vs a mustang dyno..Mustangs generally will give lower numbers than dynojets, but the new readout after mods/tune vs stock or the previous tunes numbers is what tells you where you're at..That being said, if a dyno on a stock turbo 91 or 93 tuned fa20 shows 340whp thats a heavily manipulated dyno, or a totally unsafe and irresponsible tune

 

If you want big power I'd recommend buying a car that has more HP stock than a tweaked out Subaru.