The oem handles a fair amount of power.

Either way, most known clutch companies make good clutches. South bend, exedy, competition clutch, Kentucky clutch.

Just don't waste money on too much clutch. You'll find that buying a puck clutch for 300hp will annihilate your driving experience.

 

Thanks for the advice! I figured since I was already replacing it, might as well upgrade. Would a stage 1 clutch be good for something that's pretty daily drivable but can take a bit more abuse than the OEM? Or do you think the OEM should be good enough for a stock or bolt on car? I tend to drive some what aggressively and wasn't sure if a stage 1 aftermarket would be a bit more heavy duty.

 

Staged anything is typically hogwash. Everyone has a different idea of what stage 1 vs stage 2 vs stage 3 actually amounts to.

What you need to look for is it's torque handling. Most companies give you a torque spec for the clutch, it's usually engine torque and not wheel torque. So if you have 350ft/lbs on a chassis Dyno and a clutch that supports 350lbs it's going to slip because the engine is probably making closer to 420.

Most performance shops can help you decide for your application.

Places like Kentucky clutch and others can build a custom clutch for you. You tell them what you have, what you need, and they pull one out of stock or build one for you. They also remanufacture various clutch components like the flywheel and pressure plate if you need a racing clutch rebuilt. These type of places are everywhere in the states and it's worth seeing if you have one near you