any CEL codes?

 

weird i have the exact same thing going on. my 03 use to shoot me back into my seat when i first got it 3 weeks ago and now im feeling a total loss of power. i have a hissing noise also and have been told by mechanics its a vaccum hose leak, i thought it was coming from the turbo all along.

i was having a cylinder 4 misfire since i bought the car but it stopped and i got new plugs in today and there arent any codes being thrown

 

OK, so did you get it fixed? I suspected that it may be a vacuum leak but wasn't sure b/c it only happens when I push the car...it idles fine? Have you done any mods to the car? I thought it may have had something to do with the install of the uppipe...maybe a leak at the gasket?

 

loss of power

Negative, no codes have been thrown...after the loss of power, the car runs fine with no indication that anything was ever wrong. I reflashed and babied the car for about a week hoping that it was just the ECU wrestling with the AP but I got on it yesterday and it acted like it wanted to do it again, i.e., it hesitated above 5500 rpm.

 

my 06 is doing the same thing. just got the car about a month ago. i tried to put these headers and uppipe on but decided not to. so i bolted the stock parts back up. i have a catless dp and exhaust and havent gotten any CELs until i started messing with the uppipe. took it to the mechanic and they said it was the rear o2 sensor. i also noticed that since ive had the CEL i have had a loss of boost and a rather annoying high pitched sound when i get on it. im only pushing 5 to 6 psi now. where before the CEL it was about 11psi. i bought the perrin o2 simulator, wired it up, not sure if its wired right but it hasnt come back on yet. i still get the weird sound and loss of boost when i push the car. any suggestions?

 

your on a mission to destroy that 06 huh?

 

im on a mission to get it fixed... which is y im just gonna take it to the dealer. it just started last week. i just wanted to get some insight. i know somebody else with an 06 and he didnt have to go through any of this with same mods.

 

dont take it to the dealer in the condition it is in, they will void your warranty instantly...

did you friend have engine management or a tune?

 

no he has neither a tune or em

 

he has helix dp and exhaust. i have invidia dp and exhaust. thats it... both catless

 

catless 2.5l with no engine management is going to cause rear 02 and exhaust gas temp CEL lights and more.

as for you boosting 5-6psi, check for boost leaks and do a smoke test

it sounds like if it is mechanical its your turbo or a hose is loose

 

OK, let's not get offtrack here...me, me! What is this smoke test and will it help the poor OP? BTW, I don't have a boost gauge so I don't know what I'm running...

 

Is your boost solenoid working properly?

 

im just going to put the stock dp back on and take the o2 simulator off until im ready to get a tune or until i get an AP. maybe the loss of boost is a fail safe for having an open dp and in turn pushing more air over the rear o2 sensor than it was calibrated for. the first week or so that i had the dp on, i had no CEL, no loss of boost, nothing. then both came at the same time. so maybe they are linked some how some way. i read in one of the other forums that the 06-07 models are way more sensitive to bolt ones than the 02-05 models. found that out after i put the dp on though.

if i do get an AP though, i would have to reflash back to stock in order to get an OS right? or what's better, getting an OS pro tune or an AP pro tune?

 

if i do get an AP though, i would have to reflash back to stock in order to get an OS right?

To sell your AP, you'll have to flash your stock map back on (this will "unmarry" the AP), and since it would be kinda :screwy: to keep your AP if you've gone open-source, the answer is yes.

or what's better, getting an OS pro tune or an AP pro tune?

They're both reflash mediums, so will give similar results. The choice should be based on which one your tuner is more comfortable using.

 

yea i would rather go the OS route and get a protune but the shop closest to me stopped doing OS and now only uses AP or EcuTek. So i guess i need to find another shop or buy the AP. if i get the AP, im going to need a protune anyway cuz the car didnt come with the stock bpv or intake so i can't use the off-the-shelf maps. so i guess i need to just find a place that does OS so i don't have to buy the AP.

 

When I push the car (around 5k rpm) I am experiencing a total loss of power. The first time it happened I thought just hit the rpm limiter and the car continued to run with no power for a minute or so. The second time it happened the engine totally died.

Let me start by saying I'm new to Subarus, but not new to boosted engines in other cars. Your misfiring at high rpm symptom sounds like the spark plug gap is too wide, or your ignition is weak. Also, do you have a gauge to check fuel pressure?

 

OK, now we're talkin'...I had the plugs changed by a mechanic around here who seems cool but doesn't really specialize in subarus...I'm not really sure that would be it cuz the car ran fine immediately thereafter. I hesitate to mention lest you guys castigate me but he did mention that one of the bolts at the turbo/dp side was screwed up... He assured me that it wouldn't effect the car so I made the call to run with three bolts in an effort to save money...

I have no gauges in the car...

 

WOT=Wide Open Throttle= pedal 2 the floor,

plug the AP in and go to live data, then go down one to PSI that is the turbo gauge.

You dont need to go fast thru 1st and 2nd start out at around 35 mph in 3rd gear and floor it, make sure you do this where you have space to speed up, watch the accesport or have a passenger watch it and tell us what the highest number displayed on it was.

 

WILCO...

 

ok so i figured out what the problem was. i went to the mechanic and he told me it was the rear o2 sensor but told me the code was P1153 which is for the front. i bought a brand new o2 sensor from the dealer. my CEL is gone and boost is BACK!! if you ever get code P1153 and wonder why your boost is messed, it's that o2 sensor and ecu shutting you down, atleast that's what it is on the 06 and probably 07.... ridiculous.

 

Forgive me for jumping into the thread without really reading into it. If you have the stock uppipe as your EGTs rise higher and higher your computer will pull your timing so you won't overheat your precat and toss it into your turbo.

 

have u tried checking the bolts on ur headers and uppipe? two of mine were leaking condensation and the guy at the tuner shop told me i probably have a bad gasket and an exhaust leak. the exhaust from the block was pushing the condensation out at the gaskets. as a result i had loss of power too. i dont know what the factory torque specs for those bolts are though.

 

Around 40 ft./lbs. for uppipe to manifold and downpipe to CBE. Around 30 ft./lbs. for manifold to head, and everything else. Torque evenly too. You would definitely lose power with an exhaust leak, pre-turbo. That's what spins the turbo. Manifold to uppipe gasket is a common leak point.

 

Sounds like that may fit the bill...I will check into it. Only a pre-turbo leak would cause this right? I cleaned the MAF sensor and changed the fuel filter but have yet to check the gapping on the plugs. I will use a process of elimination as I get the time. Thanks for the help...

 

no power after 2300 please some body help !!!!!!!

hey there rexy buddies im new to this site .

i own a 2000 model black ltd model automatic

about 3 weeks ago my car just started lacking power, pretty much no power.
pretty much after 2300 where my turbo should start to build
power . i put a boost gauge on and its only hitting 5psi
so far i have replaced spark plugs with new platium NGK ones
new spitt fire twin core leads
new inlet manifold gaskets
new sti injectors
new vf 24 turbo
new silicone turbo pipe {from turbo inlet to airflow meter }
new vaccum hoses and tee peices
new apexi pod filter
new front mount intercooler
new knock sensor
new fuel filter

i think thats about it
and i have run out of idea on what it could be
and im pretty mechanicly minded
i have even put it on a scanner and all that came up was knock sensor . so i replaced it and it still comes up so no idea

i was thinking my next step would be
new walbro 500hp pump and a haltech piggy back unit
to get rid of the air flow meter
which is a common problem with rexys
and convert to sti 5 speed manual .

 

Long overdue follow up...bad fuel pump. i noticed that the sound of the pump I would always here when I first turn the key started was different and took it in. The shop said that was ticket, replaced it, and there have been no problems since.

 

Thanks for the update. This may one day help another member.

 

One of the subaru shops I've been to in town diagnosed a vacuum leak in my 04 by spraying brake cleaner in the suspected areas. It'll drop the idle down for a while and once it completely evaporates, your idle returns to normal. Mine was a loose worm clamp on a rubber hose. I also had a serious loss of power around 4500 when it slipped off. After everything was tightened down, I stomped on it in 3rd gear and changed my pants, just how I like it

 

Holy follow up! I know what a dead fuel pump feels like. I was doing a WOT 3rd gear pull when mine died. I assumed the worst at first, broken p/u tube, snapped timing belt... A surprising number of OEM fuel pump failures on WRX's.