Is it covered under emissions warranty?

 

Unfortunately not!
Checked it out and at best only in CA.

 

Try SOA direct, expressing grave concern for the environment and their reputation.

 

I suppose I should try crafting a persuasive note to SOA. Can't hurt to try.
Tks for the suggestion. My emissions testbis not due until Oct 2014.

In the meantime is there any harm done tonthe motor if I continue to run the car with the CEL on?

 

I just finished fixing this for a friend today. Are any of those the "valve stuck open" codes?

 

I honestly don't know, mine doesn't have the newer emissions style. However info believe a good letter won't hurt. It's a shame; this is basically a "new" car. Try to reach as high as possible in the company I'd say.

 

Spiros - you aren't going to like Subaru's answer or mine, might want to look the other way :redface: This stuff only functions for the first 30 seconds though....

They don't cover it. It will fail again, and it is $2k to "fix". I took care of it permanently for $30. The one I did the valves were stuck open, which allows exhaust to potentially melt the hoses and release in the hood.

If they aren't open, pull the relays and fuses and disable all of the cel codes in the map. I can help with both of those. With the CEL disabled you should pass emissions -

If they are open, get the blocking plates - the one for the passenger side is a BITCH@! but you can block it off at the valve instead of removing the UP to get to it (still totally sucks but doable). I can show you what all to order.

Note the atmospheric sensor is in the driver's side one - you can't just take it all the way out. Mount it back after you deal with removing the passenger one and plug it back in without the hard line attached. Block that driver one at the engine which is easy to reach from below.

 

Spiros - you aren't going to like Subaru's answer or mine, might want to look the other way :redface: This stuff only functions for the first 30 seconds though....

They don't cover it. It will fail again, and it is $2k to "fix". I took care of it permanently for $30. The one I did the valves were stuck open, which allows exhaust to potentially melt the hoses and release in the hood.

If they aren't open, pull the relays and fuses and disable all of the cel codes in the map. I can help with both of those. With the CEL disabled you should pass emissions -

If they are closed, get the blocking plates - the one for the passenger side is a BITCH@! but you can block it off at the valve instead of removing the UP to get to it (still totally sucks but doable). I can show you what all to order.

Note the atmospheric sensor is in the driver's side one - you can't just take it all the way out. Mount it back after you deal with removing the passenger one and plug it back in without the hard line attached. Block that driver one at the engine which is easy to reach from below.

2k to fix? Yokes!!!!! Why so much and why will it fail again?
1410 secondary air injection system switching valve stuck open
2431 sec. Air inject. Sys. Air flow / pressure sensor circuit range/ performance
2433 sec air inject. System air flow/ pressure sensor circuit high
Are these the same codes you tackled?
Have been driving for a few weeks with these codes and car seems to be running 'normal'
How long can I keep 'ignoring this?

Appreciate the help / suggestions but it sounds pretty 'labor' intensive and a PITA. Other options?
Are other 06/07 owners having the same issue? What is the cause??

 

Thanks, it is good that there is an option for the OP and I am sure it will help many.

Subaru's stance is really quite sad though. Sigh...

 

I think it is some BS about it being "secondary" instead of "primary". It won't be PZEV anymore maybe but still a clean running car. It basically serves the purpose of the UP cat in ours.

 

P0410 - Secondary Air Pump System
P1410 - Secondary Air Pump Valve Stuck Open (doesn't indicate which)
p2431 - Secondary Air Pump Circuit Range/Perf.
p2433 - Secondary Air Pump Circuit High

It sucks because there are codes for each valve but the one here didn't show which one either.

OP - the one in bold is an unsafe condition. It won't hurt the motor, but it could allow exhaust fumes in the car.

You need this one (I'd get the gasket) for the driver's side at the engine.
Subaru WRX/STI/LGT Air Pump Delete - Driver Side Plate

And this one to do the passenger side one at the valve end (you could get a gasket at the dealer) -
Subaru WRX/STI/LGT Air Pump Delete - Optional Air Injection Valve Block-Off Plate

I think all I used was a 10mm and 12mm, sockets and wrenches. You will need a small one (1/4" drive would be best) and a flex joint, and a gear wrench in 10mm would be really good. It is all a bit fiddly until you get to the bottom passenger side feed tube bolt, which is just a straight bitch.

 

I'm having a feeling of déjà vu, we've had this discussion before and I remember being saddened by SOA's stance then too.

 

Yeah, I saw that conversation when I was searching this out. There were still a lot of loose ends after the 20 or whatever page thread at NASIOC and all the threads here. Above is the minimum solution and it took a long time to put together before even starting with a wrench. I'd rather do an UP, but only slightly. The directions say to remove the manifold and the UP to do this.

 

Yikes. Terrible. I'd still urge the OP and all others affected to contact SOA and express their displeasure. I feel the owners have been wronged, and if the emissions are affected, everyone has been wronged -- this from a company that advertises about love and outdoorsmen and puppies.

 

Just don't show them this thread

 

Thanks boys for the play-by-play. Appreciate the help. I feel enlightened, educated and enraged all at the same time!!

 

Do you mind if I edit the title so the thread is more "searchable" for the future?

 

With the valve(s) stuck open exhaust can get out into the hood area. They are supposed to let air into the exhaust when the pump is running - when they are stuck open there is nothing to keep exhaust from coming back out. At first it would just go back up the rubber hose to the airpump, but I've seen pictures where the rubber hoses have melted from the exhaust heat from the valves being open - at that point there is basically a sizable opening from your exhaust into the hood area. From there it can get in the cabin more or less easily. It could also mess up how your car runs if it skews the MAF reading.

Sorry, but you need to handle this short term or park it. CO poisoning is serious and permanent damage can occur potentially.

 

Some notes -

Some '06 WRX have the baro sensor in the driver's side valve and some do not. After '06 they do, and you have to keep it (keep the valve plugged in or remover the sensor from the valve and keep that plugged in. Otherwise your boost will be totally screwed, not a little, totally (it defaults to 23psi atmospheric or something crazy). I forget if STi uses it. If there are five wires going to it, it has it.

STi IIRC was the exemption, and it doesn't have the stupid passenger side valve that is so hard to deal with.

 

Quick question--
I'm planning to do the block off plate method on both valves in the near future on my 2007 WRX. Took the driver side valve off last weekend and cleaned it out but CEL threw again. Anyway, what I'm wondering (and what KS couldn't answer) is will pulling the fuse to the secondary air system after installing the block off plates also disable the baro sensor on the top of the the driver's side valve? I dont want the pump constantly try to run and stuff obviously, but I also want to make sure the baro reading is correct for the turbo.

Thanks

 

Keep the valve harness attached but pull the relay and it should work. Whatever you are going to use to disable the DTC in the map will show you whether or not that is a fact (i.e. you can check what it is showing for atmospheric with a quick log), but I'm 95% sure. It worked on the car I did anyways.

 

What's the difference between the valve harness and the relay? Or in other words, which relay?

 

Yeah, just keep the valve itself plugged in (harness). The stuff to pull is in an auxiliary fuse box driver's side under the hood near the pump. The cover (not shown) will tell you which - 10A for the valves and one pump relay.

 

Thanks a lot