recently just bought a 2015 wrx it has a hi flow catback exhaust and a cobb air intake on it. dont know anything else. im getting too rich bank 1. and a starting system malfuntion code. car idles rough and shuts off. was wondering if this car has a idle air control valve? ive also had problems when trying to do a pull. car jerks around 3k rpm boost between 0-10 then the boost drops down and then it pulls any suggestions is helpful thank you
Michaelstep21
There's no good answer but without a tune, the intake and bov can kill the engine in days. MAF metering doesn't support BOV and there's no performance benefit to an "upgraded" BPV. Stick to stock.
Also why FMIC? Set a goal first and decide on parts according.
Again, you are going at this backwards. Decide what improvements you want and then look for parts. You don't need a fmic unless you are going to uprated turbos, closed deck blocks and well over 500hp. Also you get more turbo lag, the piping is a headache and you lose the factory crash beam. Cobb and others provide a replacement beam but those have not been crash-tested so there's no way to know how well they work. Also insurance could use the modified crash structure as a reason to screw you over.
There's no drop-in. You will hit the stock engine's and transmission's limit long before the stock turbo, i.e. you are looking at engine out, drivetrain swap and 20k+in cost.
Read around on forums for all options before you decide what to do. In general flex fuel, 3 port ebcs and a slightly bigger tmic will get you a decent bump in power at a decent price. Add a higher flow j-pipe and you are close to the stock engine's, specifically con-rods' limits. If you wait for the end of the year, Cobb should have an EPA compliant kit out.
No worries, that's what forums are for. There's plenty of bad info about these cars and upgrades are a bit different and more involved than the usual honda and ford ones.
Metal chunks or honeycomb (catalyst) pieces? 😟
Any error codes? Call the tuner right away, they should be responsible this soon after a tune (not legally mind you, just morally or as customer svc). There may be some serious damage already.
I'd trailer it to a real specialist, not this jackass who recommended a fmic and bov kit as step 1 and clearly put a shit tune on it.
Any error codes? Call the tuner right away, they should be responsible this soon after a tune (not legally mind you, just morally or as customer svc). There may be some serious damage already.
I'd trailer it to a real specialist, not this jackass who recommended a fmic and bov kit as step 1 and clearly put a shit tune on it.
If it was metal chunks, you would see major damage to the front of your dad's car. If there's no damage, something else is going on.
A smoke test on intake & exhaust should show up any leaks or cracks. For intake any vacuum hose other than vacuum pump will work, for exhaust you can rig it to O2 sensor bung & tape over the tailpipes. I'd get a compression and leakdown test as well just to gauge engine health. Good luck and let us know what happens.
A smoke test on intake & exhaust should show up any leaks or cracks. For intake any vacuum hose other than vacuum pump will work, for exhaust you can rig it to O2 sensor bung & tape over the tailpipes. I'd get a compression and leakdown test as well just to gauge engine health. Good luck and let us know what happens.
No worries, broken cars are annoying. I think you were screwed over by this "tuner" shop and the previous owner. None of their suggestions from the start made any sense. I still think smoke test, compression and leakdown are your best bet. Maybe pull & check turbo, it's relatively easy on this engine. Don't rush the resolution on this.
looks like some scoring on the wheel but not significant. More than looks or surface finish, it's typically the center bearing or seal that gives out first. If you can borrow a dial indicator, the FSM should list max allowable play in bearings. A rebuild and rebalance will cure any problems, if they exist.
Original poster / discussion starter. Can't remember where the term started, reddit maybe.
Lol, I read "if I get the catalytic converter" instead of gut & thought new/used cat.
Park it, not worth the risk. Engines can blow in seconds with boost creep.
That's one of them. The first catalyst is a j-pipe. The O2 sensor is installed after this, then the mid pipe in your image which has the 2nd cat & resonator. Pull the exhaust if possible & figure out which one's broken.
J-pipe:
Mid pipe:
Also both are often available on ebay as takeoffs from people who upgraded.
Mid pipe:
J-pipe:
J-pipe:
2016 Subaru WRX 2.0L 6MT Premium Pipe Exhaust (Center). Exhaust Pipe. FCA74. Manifold Catalytic Converter - 44612AA771 - Genuine Subaru Part
Pipe Exhaust (Center). Exhaust Pipe. FCA74. Manifold Catalytic Converter. With Integrated Catalytic Converter or Integrated Exhaust Manifold. 2016 Subaru WRX 2.0L 6MT Premium. Genuine Subaru Part - 44612AA771 (44612AA770)
parts.subaru.com
Mid pipe:
2016 Subaru WRX 2.0L 6MT Premium Catalytic Converter. Converter Complete. Pipe Complete Exhaust R (Front - 44621AA190 - Genuine Subaru Part
Catalytic Converter. Converter Complete. Pipe Complete Exhaust R (Front, Center). RCA61. 2016 Subaru WRX 2.0L 6MT Premium. Genuine Subaru Part - 44621AA190
parts.subaru.com
Also both are often available on ebay as takeoffs from people who upgraded.
Mid pipe:
Genuine Subaru Catalytic Converter 44621AA190 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Genuine Subaru Catalytic Converter 44621AA190 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
J-pipe:
2015-2021 SUBARU WRX Catalytic Converter OEM Original Part | eBay
2015-2021 SUBARU WRX Catalytic Converter OEM Original Part..
www.ebay.com
Catbacks can be changed without a tune. Any aftermarket cat is a risk right now. Read around on forums for more info but in summary: EPA+lawsuits=Cobb no longer allows you to turn off emissions codes. No aftermarket cat so far has been proven to work reliably every time although anecdotally many of them work for some people.
No downpipe on FA20 engine, that's only on STi for this gen.
There's no relation or matching between j-pipe and catback, the tomei catback will work with any oem/aftermkt j-pipe and will be sound only. You might need a 2.5"-3" adapter somewhere but that's a small cost.
Aftermkt j-pipes can provide better performance. But they are inconsistent. You can take two identical cars, put the same j-pipe on both with a tune and one might work fine while the other occassionally throws codes.
Cobb and grimmspeed discontinued their j-pipes. I've heard good things about VSC and turboXS. I personally like the idea of having VSC parts on my car but can't decide if it's worth playing roulette with a 1300$ j-pipe plus tunes.
There's no relation or matching between j-pipe and catback, the tomei catback will work with any oem/aftermkt j-pipe and will be sound only. You might need a 2.5"-3" adapter somewhere but that's a small cost.
Aftermkt j-pipes can provide better performance. But they are inconsistent. You can take two identical cars, put the same j-pipe on both with a tune and one might work fine while the other occassionally throws codes.
Cobb and grimmspeed discontinued their j-pipes. I've heard good things about VSC and turboXS. I personally like the idea of having VSC parts on my car but can't decide if it's worth playing roulette with a 1300$ j-pipe plus tunes.
Don't worry about feeling dumb, the terminology is car specific and not clearly defined. Also every dealer & aftermarket co uses names incorrectly. Stick to searching by part #s.
J-pipe is the main cat, the chunks that broke off from it probably took out everything after it.
That 2nd midpipe thing has a catalyst and a resonator, I don't know which is which. The catalyst will probably have a sheet metal heat shield wrapped around it.
If the chunks got out, there's a good chance some of it is stuck in your exhaust's Y-pipe & mufflers and has probably broken stuff in the mufflers.
That 2nd midpipe thing has a catalyst and a resonator, I don't know which is which. The catalyst will probably have a sheet metal heat shield wrapped around it.
If the chunks got out, there's a good chance some of it is stuck in your exhaust's Y-pipe & mufflers and has probably broken stuff in the mufflers.
Lol, that's probably why catalyst chunks shot out so easily.
Yeah the cylindrical thing on midpipe is definitely a cat, you can see the remnants of a heat shield. It sounds like the prev owner messed with it.
That said, if you have a good oem j-pipe, your next tune can always compensate for a straight thru midpipe since the o2 sensors are before it.
And most aftermarket j-pipes replace both the j-pipe and midpipe.
And most aftermarket j-pipes replace both the j-pipe and midpipe.
Probably. As long as you were tuned with stock j-pipe and gutted mid pipe, you should be fine. If the 2nd cat was gutted by the chunks shooting out of j-pipe it might be a problem. That's a decision for you based on what the midpipe looks like.
The other part is the competence of this tuner. They have already given you lots of bad and weird advice and didn't work with you when the cat blew right after the tune.
The other part is the competence of this tuner. They have already given you lots of bad and weird advice and didn't work with you when the cat blew right after the tune.
FRS, not supra. That's a bmw I4.
And no, it's not even close to the same engine. Pistons, heads, CR, dual vs gdi, NA vs turbo, there's very little in common. Plus exhaust is specific to engine and body. That said Tomei does make exhausts for wrx.
And no, it's not even close to the same engine. Pistons, heads, CR, dual vs gdi, NA vs turbo, there's very little in common. Plus exhaust is specific to engine and body. That said Tomei does make exhausts for wrx.
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