oh god...that sounds cold...

i would go with the block heater as well as some thinner motor oil, perhaps a 5w-30 synth...should provide easier turnovers, you just have to keep everything from freezing up.

 

hey oneliner,

I'm in montreal, and have been experiencing the same deep-freeze-cold that you have... mine stays out all the time too.

the car barely turned over the first freezing-morning, and its 3 months old.

other than oil, you should think about getting a better battery... our batteries suck. you can get an eliminator from canadian tire for about 85$ (730cca's i think) that alot of ppl have said helps alot and fits right in.

running the car every few hours for a few mins helps it alot too (ie with car starter if you have one).

Hope that helps! And here's hoping it gets warm soon.....

 

Contact me about a dry cell battery and try this:

1) Turn key to on position to prime the pump.
2) Wait two seconds and turn back to off.
3) Turn key to on position, prime pump, wait two seconds.
4) Turn key to start position, it will start much sooner with fewer cranks.

-Jim

 

Dam, that's cold! Around me it only got to -2 F but it was cold enough for me! I do the "turn halfway until the pump pressurizes" thing but the car still tries not to start. I think my only solution is to get a better battery. Does anybody know what the CCA rating is on the stock battery?

It doesn't make sense because Subaru runs radio ads about "why do you see Subarus in towns that get a lot of snow," touting it's traction ability in snow (which obviously is associated with cold weather), yet they give us a run-of-the-mill cheap battery...

 

make sure you are running 0W-30. don't run anything higher.

even 5W30 will be too slow out of the pan at those temps.

otherwise, no additivies, follow platinum's directions. turn the key to "on" but don't try to start the car. wait till you hear the fuel pump stop humming, then turn her over. she should start right away.

dR

 

It doesn't make sense because Subaru runs radio ads about "why do you see Subarus in towns that get a lot of snow," touting it's traction ability in snow (which obviously is associated with cold weather), yet they give us a run-of-the-mill cheap battery...

Every auto manufacturer cuts corners somewhere to make money. I'm thankful its just the battery, which is easy and relatively inexpensive to replace. You could look into a battety heater if you want to stay with a sealed cell design.

-Jim

 

I tiried what PPMotorsports suggested and it worked. Although it's gotten warmer here, by warmer I mean it's -12 Celsius from -25. We are supose to get another cold spell though. BAH! I Don't live in the far Canadian arctic either, Ottawa is a 45 min. drive from the NY boarder. I'll keep looking around, try and find some info on dry cells or just an upgraded wet cell.

 

I tiried what PPMotorsports suggested and it worked.

Shoot me an email. I'll drop you a VERY NICE dry cell.

-Jim

 

In the past couple days where I live, it has been cold. Very cold. The kind of cold that sends your nuts into your body. The kind of cold that freezes spit before it hits the ground. The kind of cold that... alright you get the idea. Last night The ambient temp was -33 Celcuis or about -27 F. In the morning my car did not want to start. I had to crank it over a good 3 times before it started. I was wondering if anyone else experienced this and is there anything I can do? I have to park outside, and my car didn't come with a block heater. I was thinking about a gas line anit-freeze but I'm iffy about putting additives in, as it says not to in the owner's man.

Besides a block heater, are the additives worth it? or safe at all?

Another good cost effective solution is the factory battery warmer. The stock battery is plenty sufficient for the rest of the year so just heat it up in the coldest days of winter. Plus it's more 'environmentally conscious' than taking out a functional battery haha! Larger batteries with higher cold cranking amp ratings will most likely be heavier as well for what it's worth.

 

Re: Re: Hard cold starts

Another good cost effective solution is the factory battery warmer.

I'd love to do that but the closest outlet to my car (I'm in a condo complex and the lot is not that close to the building) is 100+ feet away. I don't see myself running an extension cord that far. I guess I'm in a unique situation though.

 

Every auto manufacturer cuts corners somewhere to make money. I'm thankful its just the battery, which is easy and relatively inexpensive to replace. You could look into a battery heater if you want to stay with a sealed cell design.

-Jim

Another good cost effective solution is the factory battery warmer. The stock battery is plenty sufficient for the rest of the year so just heat it up in the coldest days of winter. Plus it's more 'environmentally conscious' than taking out a functional battery haha! Larger batteries with higher cold cranking amp ratings will most likely be heavier as well for what it's worth.

SOUNDS FAMILIAR.

All batteries are recycled here in 2004.

-Jim

 

Yea im sure your battery is the problem... Go to an NTB or Sears, find yourself the battery with the highest CCA (cold cranking amps)... Im thinkin about doin it, but lately priming the fuel has worked for 20 degree weather. there's always the rolling start method if everything fails.... its bad , but if you have to be somewhere... its bailed me out of situations in other manual cars

 

Rolling start method??.... Would that be put the car in first, no brakes, push like hell and turn the key?

 

well, i think it works like this...

put car into second.

roll like hell with clutch pressed.

release clutch and the engine should turn.

 

well, i think it works like this...

put car into second.

roll like hell with clutch pressed.

release clutch and the engine should turn.

Will probably break 2nd gear, and will definitely not be covered under warranty.


Another warranty bashing post...

 

that wouldn't break the gear...?!

A friend of mine did this with his Suzuki Samurai, another friend with his BMW Z3...it worked both times without breaking anything...

With the z3, he rolled backwards out of the driveway and let the clutch out in reverse and the car started.

Keep in mind, I don't do this with my car...that's what the key is for.

 

I'll have to give that pump priming a try. Weather.com said it was -7 this morning, feeling like -27 (cause windchill was like -40 or something). I think my car actually calle me a f**ker this morning for starting it.

 

Will probably break 2nd gear, and will definitely not be covered under warranty.


Another warranty bashing post...

USE FIRST GEAR. Why do people keep recommending second gear for a bump start?!!??

Put the car in first get it rolling at like five mph and slip out the clutch quickly, yet smoothly.

When my car was running with nothing but the TXS DP, I had to bump start it because of how loud a key start was. Ask Wrinkleboi, I did it several times in one night. It's not a big deal.

-Jim