For starters what are your goals? If you want it to be a bit quicker a simple stage 2 setup would work.

If you want something a little more then a 16g would be a nice setup.

If you want something full blown then a 2.5 liter swap along with a gt30R will surfice.

 

i would be thrilled to be up at 300hp. i thought about starting w/ a manual boost control and short air intake. not sure where to go from there or if there is some other point at which i should start. would like to limit myself $5K for now

 

:whoa: limit yourself to 5k in mods?....you could do some serious work with that.

Unfortunately you have the weakest transmission of the bunch, so keep that in mind. (maybe an RA gear swap?)

Also your coming up on your 90k service. So I'd say that get your 90k service done. Then go stage 2 + TMIC and get a protune, swap in some springs & sways. That should leave some left over, and be completely reliable as your DD. Plus you'll love daily driving with the extra low end torque.

 

no MBC.......go stage 2 , see if u like, then vf 39 swap if u want

 

no mbc.......go stage 2 , see if u like, then vf 39 swap if u want

+1

 

i've been looking at a Cobb stage 2 w/ cat and Xcceleration.com's turbo stage 2 chip kit. any thoughts, is Xcceleration.com's worth nearly twice as much?

also, is a TMIC one of the first things i really want to through money at?

 

With 5k to spend I'd recommend the following.

Go stage 2 via Cobb's AP. This will mean you'll get a TBE and of course the AP for engine management. Install a catless uppipe while you are there. I like Invidia's personally.

Drive this around for awhile. It's like a new car honestly. If you are not content with that but like the drivibility of the small turbo and just want a bit more extra HP then I'd get a STI TMIC along with a ProTune. This will add some more horsepower.

If you are driving around at stage 2 and feel that you need more horsepower (like 30-50 more) then I'd start looking for a turbo upgrade. Honestly a ProTuned stage 2 WRX is plenty fast for 90% of the people. It's a fairly stout street setup.

I would then look into swaybars/endlinks, a short shifter, and maybe some gauges to keep a check on everything.


Like cautioned previously you have "the weakest" tranny in the bunch. RA gears should be fine for a modestly driven 02 at stage 2 levels. If you do not abuse the gearbox with launching/fast shifts the stock tranny should hold up to the stage 2 levels easily. I'd keep the rest of the money you have saved just in case you need to upgrade the tranny.


You can do what I've described above for around 2,500 or less if you shop around.

 

1. Get your 90k service done
2. Get a TBE of your choice
3. Get a Tactrix cable
4. Install the TBE and use the Tactrix cable for a OTS Stage 2 tune
5. Have fun with your car

Cobb Stage packages Stage 2 would be an AP, Tune, Bell-Mouth Cat-less DP, and CBE. All that for under $1900.

This Shopping List would be a good start, however this is not just a stage 2 as it includes an Up Pipe.

Search around

 

I WANT TO THANK EVERYONE W/ THEIR HELP THUS FAR ON MY LITTLE WINTER PROJECT.

based on all the input/info i've received here and from some of my buddies who work on cars of their own (but i'm the only one w/ a wrx) here's what i've formulated for a plan of attack:
1) 90K tuneup
2) paint job (black Teflon, flat finish....scream all you want but i've never been into cars that draw a lot of looks (mines blue and i was never too keen on drawing attention w/ my leadfoot)
3) Cobb stage 2 (probably an UP also) and manual boost control
4) a summer wheel setup

what revisions might you suggest?

 

With the AP you do not need nor want a Boost Controller on a basic stage 2 setup.

 

does that mean i can control the internal wastegate w/ the AP? would it be worth trying if i can? also, i'm considering a BOV, whats the easiest way to compensate for running rich?

 

Get a full exhaust (uppipe & turboback exhaust), and a custom ECU tune (I do not like OTS maps)
Use money to have a good set of summer/winter tires. Tires will do wonders for handling.
Install a set of springs
Get a custom alignment (F Camber: -1.5-2, R Camber: -1, Toe: 0 for front/rear) - you'll need rear camber bolts, and for $20, you may as well get front ones as well
Get a set of upgraded swaybars/endlinks (I'd do Whiteline 24F/22R adjustables with Kartboy endlinks)
Since you've got a wagon, a rear strut tower brace will help as well.
Get a Kartboy short-shifter with F/R bushings. Also look into upgraded motor/transmission mounts
Get a set of upgraded brake pads, SS lines, and good high-temp brake fluid
Buy good gauges to monitor what's going on with your vehicle.

That would give you a nice DD setup. If the power isn't enough for you, look into an upgraded TMIC & TGV-deletes along with another custom tune.

Purchase an SCCA membership, and attend local Auto-X events. These are a lot of fun, and will really help you learn the limits of both your vehicle and of yourself as a driver.

scream all you want but i've never been into cars that draw a lot of looks

also, i'm considering a BOV, whats the easiest way to compensate for running rich?

You can't.

If setup properly, you are rich for a very short time, not long enough to hurt your car. If you don't want to draw attention, however, why do you want a BOV? :screwy:

 

I'm going to go back on what i said earlier and suggest that perhaps he does not really need all the suspension stuff. Aside from a good alignment, a short shifter, stage 2 stuff, and the tires, the rest of that stuff can go. Some praise the stock suspension even for being soft enough to leave the kidneys intact and provide a pleasing ride quality.

As long as you have a decent brake setup, and good tires, I personally would just go with stage 2 mods. This is of course if you do not plan on doing autox and such. In that case you WILL need the suspension work. (springs, sway bars, endlinks, etc)

I absolutely love the compromise of the stock WRX suspension as i do not autocross my car, but it IS my daily driver. Soft enough for comfort, yet hard enough to provide enough support for quick cornering.

just my .02$ Take it as you will.

 

Defiantly get an Uppipe.

Adding sway bars and endlinks to the mix makes a big difference going around corners, but does not punish your kidneys.

 

i'm pretty set on the suspension, it's pretty firm for daily driving but gives what i need offroad which is where this car spends a lot of time (hence the desire for Teflon paint, it's never been afraid of rough stuff and never will). i'll probably get some sway bars and am weighing whether the rear tower strut will compromise my storage capacity too much. already have brake pad upgrades, love the idea for the high temp brake fluid and the SS lines is a no brainer i hadn't thought of so thanks.

as far as the BOV, i refuse to believe there is no form of compensation for it running lean....ANY SUGGESTIONS PLEASE.
obviously it's for show but where i live there is a lot of country driving w/ bored policeman whoes eyes will be caught by a bright blue vs black. i'm not worried about about police hearing the blowoff valve because it would only be in town when i'm shifting more and behaving myself anyways.

any thoughts on summer tires for some 18s that are still good in the wet and are less than $200?

 

as far as the BOV, i refuse to believe there is no form of compensation for it running rich....ANY SUGGESTIONS PLEASE.

The only thing you can do is a blow-through setup. This requires a FMIC, which you'll want an upgraded turbo for (I wouldn't use a FMIC on the TD04). Outside of that, there's nothing. The BOV is positioned post-MAF, which means the ECU has already metered the AFR, and with the air being VTA, you will have more more fuel than accounted for.

any thoughts on summer tires for some 18s that are still good in the wet and are less than $200?

Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec

I'm running Falken Azenis RT-615s now, and while they're awesome in dry, they're pretty scary when it rains - the Dunlops will be next year's tire.

 

why not run an TMIC w/ the TD04? i'd prefer to try the stage 2 setup before even thinking about a turbo upgrade

 

why not run an TMIC w/ the TD04? i'd prefer to try the stage 2 setup before even thinking about a turbo upgrade

You asked about dealing with the rich condition that running a VTA BOV causes - I provided a solution, but it wouldn't be worth it. You'd be better off running a TMIC on the TD04, and even on moderate turbo upgrades (e.g., VF34/39 or 16G).

 

excuse my last question, i typed it wrong. what i don't know is why i shouldn't run the stock turbo w/ a FMIC. i'm not against upgrading the turbo but i would rather drive it stage 2 for at least a few months before making that decision.

 

excuse my last question, i typed it wrong. what i don't know is why i shouldn't run the stock turbo w/ a FMIC.

Your question is so generic.This answer is not just limited to Subarus,but has to do with other turbocharged cars out there.You have to choose/design an intercooler set up based on the turbo you use.Basicly your using airflow/power potential as you measurement tool.The answer is as simple as "volume".Not all FMIC setups/kits have/are the same volume.You have to take in account the diameter of the charge pipes,lenght of said pipes and the size (h/w/l) of the intercooler core.You have to pressurize the total "volume" of the intercooler system before you can make positive pressure.So intercooler "A" is 100 cu inches squared,intercooler "B" is 200 cu inches squared.Now intercooler "B" offers a 10°F drop in charge temps to intercooler"A", but intercooler "A"'s volume can be filled 2x as fast as "B".This has to do with "spool time/lag".In 1st-3rd gears there will be a noticable difference in turbo spool up with intercooler "B" due to a much larger volume to pressurize first and all your gaining is a 10° drop in charge temps.That = nothing.4th-5th won't be as bad because the car has more kenetic energy being in motion and this results the turbo/engine to have more potential energy.Look at how little volume there is between the turbo and the TMIC of the stock setup.Now invision a FMIC setup.Anyone who say their FMIC setup on a stock turbo doesn't cause more lag is kidding themselves because they probably are just comparing 4th & 5th gear and have never even logged the car from 1st-4th gear to get actual accurate data to back up that claim because they do not know any better.It's that whole "ignorance is bliss" thing.
ARE Cooling (Aluminium Radiators & Engineering P/L)

Just to save you from asking a millon questions........ Unabomber's Manifesto - NASIOC

 

simple answer....

1)get a turbo back exhaust(this includes up pipe and catback exhaust)
2)go get a protune done

and bam u have stage 2. drive for a while, if you want more than come back and ask more questions.

 

excuse my last question, i typed it wrong. what i don't know is why i shouldn't run the stock turbo w/ a FMIC. i'm not against upgrading the turbo but i would rather drive it stage 2 for at least a few months before making that decision.

Short answer: There are better ways to spend your money.

Long answer: With a FMIC, you'll also need to invest in an aftermarket intake, as well as a custom tune to see any benefit from it (an OTS map will not take advantage of the cooling capacity of the FMIC vs TMIC). If you already have an aftermarket, it may not work with the FMIC, in which case, you'll need to look for another. You're looking at spending $1000+ for minimal (10-15whp/wtq) gains. This doesn't take into account the decreased throttle response you'd get from a FMIC setup as well (which, depending on the custom tune, will vary).

 

Get a Cobb AP with an uppipe/downpipe and run the Stage 2 map.
As for the BOV question, just get the Cobb SF intake with the cold air box. That intake will run fine with the Cobb OTS maps. Also, you'll be able to hear the BPV sending air back into the intake. It serves the same purpose as a BOV (cool sound) without the running rich problem.

 

thanks for the info psychobooe. you're talking about running the stock BPV for this application right? also, i've been told to stay away from the manual boost control but still haven't been told why. can anyone tell me why i should stay away from it (or won't need it w/ the AP...i've been told both)?

here's my revised plan of action:
1) 90K tuneup
2) paint job
3) Cobb stage 2 w/ up pipe
4) SF air intake w/ air box and MAF tube
5) A-pillar gauge pod, w/ boost meter, A/F meter, not sure about the third
6) Cobb stage 1 suspension w/ slide mounts

no BOV for now...maybe if i ever do a turbo upgrade.
jury is still out on manual boost control until i'm told why it's a bad idea or don't need it.
have had multiple suggestions for a Kartboy shortshift but is it really that much better than the factory short shift i already have

 

also, i've been told to stay away from the manual boost control but still haven't been told why. can anyone tell me why i should stay away from it (or won't need it w/ the AP...i've been told both)?

Because you turn up the boost, but you do nothing to do with the fueling. With proper tuning, it's fine.

However, you have an '02/'03 WRX, so it's not like the '04+ vehicles.

Q: What is cause of the well-known problematic delay with the USDM 04/05 WRX from the factory? Are the delay values too high? Why doesn't the USDM 02/03 WRX have the same issue?

Note: The following examples apply to the USDM ECUs.

High delay values are not the issue with 04/05 WRX. Depending on which delay value is being used, the 04/05 WRX may actually have the same or lower delay values than the 02/03 WRX. For example, looking at the delay examples above, for a manual transmission around sea level, the selected delay groups would be the following:

USDM 02/03 WRX - 122/732/366/3662
USDM 04/05 WRX - 366/732/366/366

The delay value chosen depends on the time since engine start. So, after about 8 minutes, the last delay value is chosen for both ECUs, which is going to be the delay value used most of the time when we are driving (unless you are taking extremely short trips). As you can see, the delay value is much higher in the 02/03 WRX (3662) than the 04/05 WRX (366)

So what causes the known issues? The problem is how the 04/05 WRX has the 'CL to OL Transition with Delay (Calculated Load)' and 'CL to OL Transition with Delay (Throttle)' setup from the factory. For the 02/03 WRX (and all other 16-bit ECUs besides the USDM 04/05 WRX), the load and throttle thresholds are referenced against rpm in a 2D table. For example, with the 02/03 WRX, the calculated load threshold is 5632 from 0-3600 rpm and zero at 4000+ rpm. It is similar for the throttle thresholds (69.4% from 0-3600 rpm and zero from 4000+ rpm). This means that above 3600 rpm, the threshold for load and throttle will begin to drop (due to interpolation) and will have zero threshold at and above 4000 rpm. However, with the 04/05 WRX there is only a single threshold for calculated load and throttle. Although the single threshold matches the lower rpm thresholds in the 02/03 WRX (5632 load MT, 69.4% throttle), there is no drop off above 3600 rpm since they are just single value thresholds and are not referenced by rpm. That means that, even above 3600 rpm, the 04/05 WRX will maintain the same thresholds for load and throttle until one of the "misc." tables clears the delay (rpm, veh. speed, etc.). The 'CL Delay Maximum Engine Speed' table in the 04/05s also has higher thresholds (5100/5200 rpm) as compared to the 02/03s (4200/4300).

So, in the 04/05 WRX, this can result in remaining in closed loop longer from over 3600-5200 rpm, whereas with the 02/03 WRX, the transition with delay would occur much sooner (lower or zero load/throttle thresholds) or there would be no delay at all (above 4300 rpm due to the 'CL Delay Maximum Engine Speed' table).

Source: RomRaider • View topic - Closed Loop to Open Loop fueling transition explained

here's my revised plan of action:
1) 90K tuneup
2) paint job
3) Cobb stage 2 w/ up pipe
4) SF air intake w/ air box and MAF tube
5) A-pillar gauge pod, w/ boost meter, A/F meter, not sure about the third
6) Cobb stage 1 suspension w/ slide mounts

no BOV for now...maybe if i ever do a turbo upgrade.
jury is still out on manual boost control until i'm told why it's a bad idea or don't need it.
have had multiple suggestions for a Kartboy shortshift but is it really that much better than the factory short shift i already have

Boost / EGT / Oil Pressure should be the three gauges you get.

A/F gauge should only be purchased if it's wideband - otherwise, you have a nice gauge that lights up and tells you information about as useful as a load of dog crap in your bed.

I'd skip the AP, purchase a used tactrix cable, and flash an open-source map to your car instead - it will save you quite a bit of $$, and it would allow you to datalog your vehicle as well to make sure everything is where it should be. If nothing else, spend the $$ you would on the AP on getting a custom open-source tune. This can be done by going to a performance shop, or having an Internet tune (they send you a map, you datalog and send them results, they tweak map and resend, and the process repeats until both parties are happy).

 

Donkey - thank you, generic answer for a generic question works fine, i get it.

thank you again idipskoalmint...will the Cobb AP allow me to make this fuel adjustment?

 

...will the Cobb AP allow me to make this fuel adjustment?

If you mean for an MBC,not without custom tuning.Also the main problems acciated with MBC's is a condition called part throttle/full boost,which can not be tuned out.

 

alright, i'm off the manual boost control...have done a lot of reading and it's now obvious that it makes no sense. i've been looking at Cobb stage 2 kit but am now comparing it to the TurboXS stage 2 which is $700 more but come w/ the up-pipe (which i will be getting regardless of what kit i choose) and an SA intake. does anyone have any input as far as what they would do or can suggest another company's kit?

 

dont buy a "company" kit.. just piece everything together yourself.

i went stage 2 for under 850 dollars

1) ERZ racing catback exhaust (200 new)
2) ERZ racing downpipe (140 new)
3) used v2 AP (475)

of course- you could ditch the AP and get an opensource tune which would be about 400 dollars cheaper all together.

 

thats not bad hows its sound is it loud im looking to go stage 2 and just can't settle on what to get because i have about 700 and not sure weather to get an accesport and wait for the exhaust or what love to hear your input anyone welcome to give an opinion i was looking at the vibrant street exhaust for an idea