I understand completely. I have 3 kids....

Not sure what your current mods are but:

used Catless DP($150-200), used low mileage STi turbo swap(VF39, VF43, or VF48 $350-500) and a custom tune($150 road tune/ $350 dyno tune using Open Source) will net you 300whp or very very close to it depending on the dyno & grade of fuel. There's no need for injectors, fuel pump, intercooler upgrade, etc.

 

Good list, and good point, bump for kids in a rex! When we take the WRX my 6 y/o son says to me "Dad, use the turbo!" He gets that from riding with my wife when he says to her "Mom use the HEMI!" SAFELY of course!!!

Sorry, I forgot to inform you, I am completely STOCK except for my momo shift knob and de-badged rear. So the path is wide open!

 

Don't know if it will pull a full 300hp, but I'm going with the easy, relatively cost effective WRX-to-STI route. I have a full Cobb Turbo-Back Exhaust and I'll be installing a used VF39 and STI intercooler. The advantage of this is that Cobb makes a map specifically for a VF39 upgrade for the AccessPORT. Now that the AccessPORT Race download is available, those who want more freedom than the standard maps allow are able to begin basic tuning and data logging on their own. Obviously a professional tune for your specific engine will result in a better net gain, but for ease, reliability and plug-and-play power adding, VF39 upgrade is a common, sure thing. I'd recommend going with a bigger intercooler and injectors (unless your wagon already has 550cc). The '06 TR version was designed for easy upgrades. I recently purchased a VF39 and STi intercooler for $280, so you can't hardly beat that.

As a side note, I just found out I'm going to be a dad too, and my wife is wishing now I'd bought a wagon!

 

So also a good mod list Cadet, though you're right, not quite sure if it's gonna put me at 300hp.

Question though regarding a turbo upgrade, obviously that means more air, especially if moving up to a VF43 or VF48, thus further increasing the gap in the A/F ratio causing you to run more lean rather than the way these cars like to be (rich.) So to go along with what your saying CadetARP am I correct to ascertain that it would be most advantageous to increase the fuel input as well i.e. injectors and so forth. Thus maintaining the best A/F ration??? I don't think Testes1010 would quite agree on that.

See this is great, two opinions already, and there are some commonalities and yet some differences...keep em comin! :thumbup:

And Congrats Cadet about becomin a pop! Yeah, you should see the size of the massive stroller that fits in the back of my wagon! After our second boy, my wife went out and bought the biggest freakin monster she could find! And believe me when I tell you the look on peoples faces is priceless when I pull up to a light ready to burn and they see TWO empty babyseats in the back!

 

Question though regarding a turbo upgrade, obviously that means more air, especially if moving up to a VF43 or VF48, thus increasing the gap in the A/F ratio. So wouldn't it be best to increase the fuel input as well i.e. injectors and so forth. Thus maintaining the best A/F ration???

The ECU will always attempt to reach target AFR determined by the values in the Open Loop Fuel map which is moving thru the MAF, regardless of the size of turbo you are running. 11:1(11 parts air to 1 part fuel) is 11:1 whether you are running a VF39 or a GT35R, the ecu increases fuel based on air flowing thru the MAF.

You'll definitely need a tune to make sure the AFR are good but there's no black magic to it. Fueling is the easiest thing to tune on these cars.

The VF39, 43, & 48 are essentially the same turbo. Thoughts are that the 43 & 48 'fixed' issues with the 39's notorious wastegate crack and I think the 48 has a larger wastegate spring pressure.

Here's a VF39'd 2006 WRX I tuned, not quite 300whp but close had the temps been cooler it would have easily broke 300whp. The IAT(intake air temps) during tuning were +100*F. The car will surprise a STG2 STi:

 

Yeah that's pretty solid man! And that's with the setup you aforementioned? VF39, catless DP, and an open source tune?

Now here's one argument my friend has made, he thinks I should also put on a Short Ram intake, and catback exhaust, thinking that would add another 10-15 hp.

Would that be beneficial in conjunction to your route TESTES1010? I think I just get a kick out of writing your name, I can't stop hearing Beavis and Butthead saying testes...man I should be way over that

 

Yeah that's pretty solid man! And that's with the setup you aforementioned? VF39, catless DP, and an open source tune?

yup, the car above also had a STi TMIC & a full catback on it, I don't recall if he was completely catless or still had the stock midpipe cat.

Now here's one argument my friend has made, he thinks I should also put on a Short Ram intake, and catback exhaust, thinking that would add another 10-15 hp.

I would skip the short ram. The stock box is fine for the power levels you are seeking. The short ram monies could be better put somewhere else. The catback is a small restriction in hp, but you'll definitely open up the boxer rumble with a aftermarket catback.

 

I love this thread, everybody is so nice to each other and informative. I will definetly read this thread again when i get my wrx. keep up the good work guys! :tongue:

 

Testes, so I should add to your list an upgraded TMIC, easily a stock STi one right?

So you're saying achieving 300hp could be as easy as:
1. Catless DP (since I come stock with a catless UP, that would leave me with only a cat in my mid, and I wonder if that would affect NJ emissions inspection?)
2. Turbo swap (STi stock VF39, 43, or 48 will do fine)
3. Larger TMIC (Sti stock will also do fine)
4. Open source tune
and probably 5. One of those new little laptops to maintain the tune with right? So that way, if I take the car in to a dealership and the re-flash my ECU, I still have my tune saved and available?
And I would add 6. Guages to properly watch over components following any tuning.

Correct? If so, that's a good list and relatively cost-efficient as well!

So you are an advocate for an open source tune rather than say the COBB accessport that A LOT of guys on here swear by?

 

So you are an advocate for an open source tune rather than say the COBB accessport that A LOT of guys on here swear by?

yup, I tune Open Source locally on the side.

The list you've got is a nice one.:thumbup:

 

So between Testes and Cadet we've got a real solid mod kit at a pretty good price...so who's got the next one???

 

So, although I see major benifits to an open source tune, in order to continue the discussion, I'll put in another plug for the advantages of the Cobb Access Port route. Cobb just recently released a free software download for AccessPort owners called AccessRACE. Essentially, it's software that allows you to interface your laptop with the ECU directly via the OBDII port and as long as you have a Cobb map flashed, you can tweak, adjust and datalog.

Check out the forum page on Cobbtuning.com and you can read posts from street, casual and professional tuners that have begun to play with this software. I haven't yet been able to do any data runs as I just downloaded it, but I'm planning on running a few on my current set up, and when I get the VF39/STi TMIC, I'll run it again.

As for gauges, other than looking cool, as long as you have the ability to data log (or an AccessPORT that you can scroll through many common gauge displays) they are not NECESSARY. However, if you decide to extensively modify turbo, intercooler, fuel rails/pump, etc., run high boost, and you are basically running on the threshold (because lets admit, it's not fun unless you are, and how else are you going to compete with a full 5.0 liter without pushing that little 2.5 to all she's got), then monitoring your engine with additional gauges is very important.

Here are my three suggestions: Although not essential, I think one of the most UNDERUTILIZED intications is Exhaust Gas Temp. EGT can will often be the first indication of an internal engine problem. Know what EGT you expect to see and always compare that to what you are actually seeing when driving. Boost gauge obviously is advantageous because modifying your map will set new target boost. Monitoring your target boost will tell you when your engine is producing the pressure you expect or whether you are boost spikeing (engine damage here we come) or creeping. Lastly, if you plan on tuning open source or tweaking with a laptop, Air Fuel Ratio is very important. So, EGT, BOOST and AFR. There are many others, but if you have to many gauges you won't be able to complete a good dash scan and you'll feel like a pilot with helmet fire! (At least that's what my wife calls it. She flies Air Force jets).

 

So, although I see major benifits to an open source tune, in order to continue the discussion, I'll put in another plug for the advantages of the Cobb Access Port route. Cobb just recently released a free software download for AccessPort owners called AccessRACE. Essentially, it's software that allows you to interface your laptop with the ECU directly via the OBDII port and as long as you have a Cobb map flashed, you can tweak, adjust and datalog.

Check out the forum page on Cobbtuning.com and you can read posts from street, casual and professional tuners that have begun to play with this software. I haven't yet been able to do any data runs as I just downloaded it, but I'm planning on running a few on my current set up, and when I get the VF39/STi TMIC, I'll run it again.

Tactrix cable = $200 (they used to be $90 before CANbus)
Cobb AP = $700

Both of these values are new, you can get both for cheaper used. If you have enough knowledge to tweak your ECU using AccessRACE, then you have enough knowledge to tweak it via Romraider. The only difference is that you have a "base map" to work off of (though, there are base maps available free to download on the open-source forums).

As for gauges, other than looking cool, as long as you have the ability to data log (or an AccessPORT that you can scroll through many common gauge displays) they are not NECESSARY. However, if you decide to extensively modify turbo, intercooler, fuel rails/pump, etc., run high boost, and you are basically running on the threshold (because lets admit, it's not fun unless you are, and how else are you going to compete with a full 5.0 liter without pushing that little 2.5 to all she's got), then monitoring your engine with additional gauges is very important.

You can't always be datalogging, however. If you run out of oil pressure, oil starvation can blow your motor pretty quick. There is no oil pressure sensor in a stock car, so why not get a gauge?

Here are my three suggestions: Although not essential, I think one of the most UNDERUTILIZED intications is Exhaust Gas Temp. EGT can will often be the first indication of an internal engine problem. Know what EGT you expect to see and always compare that to what you are actually seeing when driving. Boost gauge obviously is advantageous because modifying your map will set new target boost. Monitoring your target boost will tell you when your engine is producing the pressure you expect or whether you are boost spikeing (engine damage here we come) or creeping. Lastly, if you plan on tuning open source or tweaking with a laptop, Air Fuel Ratio is very important. So, EGT, BOOST and AFR. There are many others, but if you have to many gauges you won't be able to complete a good dash scan and you'll feel like a pilot with helmet fire! (At least that's what my wife calls it. She flies Air Force jets).

AFR is useful only if it's wideband.

 

There is no oil pressure sensor in a stock car, so why not get a gauge?

Really? I was under the impression that there was some sort of sensor that was a failsafe for lost oil pressure in the WRX. I very likely could be wrong. This summer I'm doing the whole gauges thing and had definitely planned on putting an oil pressure gauge in there.

I feel so vulnerable/victimized/paranoid without an oil pressure gauge.....:sadwave:

 

Dude, I agree with you one hundy sticks (100%). I forgot to mention you need a wide band capable O2 sensor. You are right about Cobb being more expensive, plus, it pretty much limits you to tuning their map set ups.

Word to your mother.