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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, I'm not a newbie to rebuilding engines... if they are the V or inline versions. Never rebuilt a flat 4 and can't imagine it's much different.

My step son spun 2 rod bearings, 1 and 4. Not much for metal shavings throughout that I could see upon initial inspection but that only included the bottom of the pan, and the oil pick up screen.

The engine has not been pulled yet and I still have to look at and/or measure the cylinder walls, pistons, rings, ring clearances, cranks shaft journals, connecting rods, etc.

I know we can reuse headbolts and block through bolts, etc.

So here is my question, assuming I measure and tolerences come back as still within specs, is there anything aside from rod bearings, main bearings, and a complete gasket set that I should consider replacing on this motor?

It has +/-76,000 miles on it. He has limited funds to work with. Again, assuming much without pulling the engine, I can pull it, boil it, turn the crank, get oversized bearings, replace all gaskets, and update the oil pickup for about $800.

Minumum on a shortblock that I've found is about $1650 and that doesn't include a master gasket set for $250ish plus an upgraded pickup for about the same.


Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Thank you in advance,
Michael
 

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You might as well get new cylinder rings they love to crack.
 

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I assume that you would also put in a new timing belt, given the mileage and hard driving. Good luck! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks everyone... talked to a machine shop... and to some others... no one recommends keeping the crank once a bearing is spun.. nor the rods for a whole that spun a bearing... so now looking at a short block regardless.

so.. the machine shop also recommended redoing the heads, adjustments, pucks (never heard of pucks). thoughts on that?
 

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I don't know what pucks are.

I am guessing the car is driven hard. If the car has no mapping (reflashed ECU) and you go the short block route, be aware you will need to remap for a 2.5L short block (few do a 2.0L at this point as the $ for the hardware is comparable).

If the car has no map, and your stepson has the original parts available, consider using the stock parts and finding a wreck with a good motor and putting it back on the road on the cheap, never to be driven hard again.

If you start adding up machining costs for two heads, a two-part split block, etc., etc., plus front cover stuff, all pumps, and so on, the $ adds up too quickly.
 

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Thanks everyone... talked to a machine shop... and to some others... no one recommends keeping the crank once a bearing is spun.. nor the rods for a whole that spun a bearing... so now looking at a short block regardless.

so.. the machine shop also recommended redoing the heads, adjustments, pucks (never heard of pucks). thoughts on that?
I have a brand new crankshaft that has been in my living room that ive been trying to sell. Let me know if you want it cheap...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Pucks...maybe shims to adjust the valves?

From memory, here is what I've found for some pricing for OEM or aftermarket OEM "quality":
Crank: $305
Rod Bearings: $50
Main Bearings: $60
Rods: $250
Piston and Rings: $180 (and these are probably cheapo)
Plus assembly of all parts. Do the connecting rods require being heated to get the wrist pins in on these motors? That's $10 a pop unless I can put them in the oven but I don't remember an oven getting hot enough.

Extras
Master Gasket Set: $250
Timing Belt: $50
Head work/adjustment: $450 (but not sure if that's for both, I assume per head which is the norm for quotes)
Oil pump: $150

And he will need someone to map the ECU because it does have a bigger turbo, i don't know if it has a chip or what so that's another $400

I could adjust the heads myself... but... spun bearing, bearing material in oil = the heads should be pulled apart, and checked, too.

Crap... honestly not the word I want to use.
 

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Ah, bigger turbo adds another layer of complexity. Should we assume that he has the supporting mods to push a bigger turbo? (Usually fuel pump, injectors, and people generally combine it with a downpipe and upipe)

Did he have the turbo swap prior to spinning the bearing? Was tuning done to accommodate it? This may be a bigger kettle of fish than you think. Around here, people go in 2 general directions for tuning; open source or cobbtuning.com. Whatever way you go will need to be in sync with the preferences of whatever tuner you go to.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
He bought the car with the turbo with bigger pipes. He's a little handheld programmer, I'm assuming, kind of like a BullyDog for diesels. Don't know what he's done if anything which may or may not have added to the problem. As far as bigger anything for fuel delivery.. not sure.
 

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Have a look at the programmer, which may be a Cobb AccessPort. If that's what it is, you'll just need to find a recommended tuner that can do a "Protune", and you'll be in (hopefully) good hands.
 
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