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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
any info? what would you do, reliability etc? i am buying tomorrow but just saw a deal for an aps sr40 for 1200...pe1820 is 1475...anyone?
 

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I almost bought an SR40 but I went with PE because of price and the good reviews....I heard the aussies weren't too impressed with the APS turbos performance for the price.....a couple locals are running the APS units and are very pleased with them though. I havent experienced one first hand but Id give the SR40 a go for $1200.
 

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God said:
They put down the same power so go for the SR40 if you can get it for $1200.
How is the spoolup (LAG) on these turboes? Why would you get the APS? Because of the price? Or do you think it's a better turbo?
 

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God said:
Lag is almost identical as is power level capacity.
;) yes I would have guessed that..

But there is still diffrence between turbos.
A qouple of days ago I spoke with Henning Solberg (Petter solberg's bigbrother(Norwegian WRC driver)) Henning currently drive an evo6 in norway, but will drive WRC next season for peugeot. The turbo he had in his evo6 cost over 7000$USD so there are diffrences between turbos :)

The question is it worth the extra money?
Since I'm not willing to spend 7000$ on a turbo for my wrx (he had one extra for sale;) ) the question is there any notisable diffrence between the APS and the PE. Have anyone tested the turboes against each other.

To fight lag I would get an lighter flywheel, decatted exhaust, air induction kit of some kind (blitz or homemade carbonfibre airbox) the "best" turbo in a given price range, and may consider ANTI-LAG setup on the ecu.

The PE turbo I have read much nice things about. The APS turbo looks nice, but I have read (on clubwrx) that the turbo is not that good. What they mean by not good I don't know.
 

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I have the APS and it is that good :)

My guess about the "not that good" threads is probably about the cost when they premiered at $1800. I got mine cheap and love it.

I have heard it spools as well as a vf30 and makes more power. I never had one though so I can't confirm. I am still dialing in the 740cc injectors I added so really can't comment on when boost hits yet.

You will likely love either as these as they are two of the best turbos for commonly modified 2.0's available. IMHO
 

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I personally wouldn't take either. What are you going to be doing with the car? I'd rethink my choices...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i would go 20G but fp has been...

jerking me around for 3 months...oh next week, 3 weeks, this and that...never showing anything. so its PE 1820 i think. i want alot of top end like my old m3, i want over 300whp with water injection, and i want to be able to beat some mildy modded v8's...ps no launching for me until i get an upgraded trans
 

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I had an SR40, I hit full boost at like 4100.

SR40 and PE1820 are pretty identitical, get the cheaper one.
 

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From what I have read about the sr40, it will get you over 300whp as well.

I am enjoying my 1820, and have a tad over 300whp on my car. The turbo wakes up at 4k rpms, and from then to redline, the turbo never lets up. I am running 18psi right now with a tmic, but have a Perrin FMIC waiting to go on. My aim is for around 330whp with alcohol injection and a stiffer wastegate spring and clamp kit assisting.

As compared to the stock piece, it never ceases to amaze me as to how silent the turbo is in operation. Perhaps it is the ball bearing construction. I don't hear the turbo spooling up with the stock airbox, but I do hear the ohh so sweet sound that only a BB turbo can make!

but I digress:D

You can't lose with either turbo..
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
wastegate spring for pe turbo...

does the turbo hold full boost to redline, can you explain why it needs the different spring etc and at what level of boost you need the spring? thanks, ps the turbo will be here monday
 

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Re: wastegate spring for pe turbo...

M3toWRX said:
does the turbo hold full boost to redline, can you explain why it needs the different spring etc and at what level of boost you need the spring? thanks, ps the turbo will be here monday
you need the spring and clamp kit if you want to be able to hold over 20psi of boost to redline..

It seems that as part of PE's cost-cutting measures on the 1818/1820 turbos, they dropped the separative wastegate and hooked up a non-adjustable unit.

The ultimate reason though is that at over 20psi, the P20 exhaust housing becomes a little restrictive, and a stiffer spring is needed to keep the wastegate door closed to maintain boost.

I have not installed mine yet, and am able to comfortably hold 18psi all the way through the rev range
 

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God said:
Jigga I have 19 PSI springs available for the PE turbo actuators if you need one. THey aren't much and make a HUGE difference.
Thanks Dan..

I already have the clamp kit and the spring (blue), but have not installed it yet.... My 1820 didn't come with the separative wastegate.

I haven't installed the spring and clamps for 2 reasons...

I am not sure how my ecu map will respond to the change (I have ecutek), plus I don't have the knowhow to DIY the job (although it doesn't look like a complex job).

If you have any instructions as to how to open the wasegate (it currently doesn't have any clamps holding it closed) and install the spring, I would truely appreciate it.

I do think I will have to install it soon though because since I swapped in my Gruppe S headers, my off-boost power is severely lacking... it is almost painful:( Hopefully the wastegate spring will help matters... mid to top end power though is highly entertaining.
 

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it's funny that you mention the leak, because I have one too! The car sounds like an old beetle..

should be getting it fixed over the next couple of days though...

The header is wrapped as well, but still, there is less off-boost torque with aftermarket headers as compared to stock...

I wish I could gain low end power AND keep the top end power that I gained with this header...

Do you know how to open the IHI style wastegate actuator for the 1820??Are any special tools needed to install the spring?
 
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