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Discussion Starter #1
Hey there everyone, recently picked up a cold air intake and I'm wanting to try and flash the AP on my own to the correct tune to save me a few bucks on some one else doing it for me. I have a modified exhaust system - resonator and muffler delete along with the upcoming cold air intake and a Cobb AOS.

I'm just wanting to know which stage tune I should set the AP at - if there is one specifically for my situation - or do I need to go get it tuned by some one else? I don't want to risk any motor failure to save a few bucks unless it's safe to use the programmed tunes on the AP.

Also to clarify, I have a 2012 2.5l Hatch - if that makes a difference.

Thanks guys.
 

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There are no OTS tunes that support your vehicle.

I am not confident in this statement: I don't think the Cobb AP has support for your vehicle/ECU. You will want to call and confirm.

The larger question is: is it worth it? That's a lot to spend on not very much gain.

EDIT: I read your question as "2.5i hatch, but I realize that may be a L as in 2.5 liter. Clarify please -- is this car a WRX?

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Discussion Starter #3
There are no OTS tunes that support your vehicle.

I am not confident in this statement: I don't think the Cobb AP has support for your vehicle/ECU. You will want to call and confirm.

The larger question is: is it worth it? That's a lot to spend on not very much gain.

EDIT: I read your question as "2.5i hatch, but I realize that may be a L as in 2.5 liter. Clarify please -- is this car a WRX?

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Yes it is indeed a WRX... I used one of the OTS tunes and I was told by a couple of guys from O'Reillys that they are "doodoo". I have a Cobb turbo Inlet on the way, so I'm going to install that and then get it tuned by a local guy that works at our Subaru Dealership as soon as I can. Not that any of this matters anymore as I already went ahead and tuned it myself, but I was able to figure out that I shouldn't be touching those OTS tunes. You live and you learn I guess haha!
 

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OK, got it. Sounds like you have it under control.

Still, for those that may read this thread -- Cobb maps are for a very specific set of parts.
 

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Don't just have it tuned by someone you don't know. That's probably the very worst thing you can do, regardless of how qualified you think your tuner is. Don't listen to your friends or the dudes from auto parts stores. They're going to lead you down the wrong path based on ignorance. Do research here and in other forums. I would do a lot of homework and seek out a reputable tuner with a dyno. It would be worth making a few hundred mile drive if you plan on keeping the car for a while. If you can't find a tuner within range and you decide that you just can't live without a tune I suggest going with a Bren Tuning E-tune.

In order for a cobb AP tune to be applicable for your car you need to have specific parts, as Zax said. You can't just intall other engine moficiations and expect it to be safe. The Cobb stage 1+ SF Intake tune requires specifically a Cobb intake and nothing else. If you don't have a Cobb intake then get rid of it if you plan on going with the Cobb tune. Your exhaust work will be compatible with it as long as you didn't do anything to the downpipe. Anything cat-back should be OK.

You can even upload a Cobb tune to your car without any modifications. It's the Cobb Stage 1 map. For either the Cobb Stage 1 map or the Cob Stage 1+ SF Intake map, you'll have the option for 91 octane tune, or a 93 octane tune. The 93 will give you the most gains, but you cannot use anything less than 93.

Cobb tunes may give you more conservative power gains, but they do so in an effort to cut down on engine failures. I hear of people with custom tunes trashing their motors frequently, but I can't remember hearing it often with basic Cobb tunes.
 
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