I don't believe it. Keep you OEM airbox until or if you go stage 2.
Which intake??
OK so I am spending a ton of time researching intakes for my new 17' WRX Premium. I do not want to tune it at this point in order to keep the warranty fully in place. It looks as though COBB intakes all require a tune. I found the Mishimoto intake and it says that if you run 93 octane it does not require a tune. Being as this is not my daily driver, I will definitely be running only 93 octane in it. From the product description:
"Direct fit for the 2015+ Subaru WRX
Designed in Delaware, USA and filter made in USA
Available with a polished or wrinkle black pipe finish
Mishimoto Lifetime Warranty
CARB EO #: D-759-1
Dyno-proven maximum gains of up to 33 whp and 30 wtq and peak gains of up to 28 whp and 21 wtq while maintaining safe AFRs on the stock tune (using 93 octane fuel)"
Thoughts???
Thanks, Aaron
"Direct fit for the 2015+ Subaru WRX
Designed in Delaware, USA and filter made in USA
Available with a polished or wrinkle black pipe finish
Mishimoto Lifetime Warranty
CARB EO #: D-759-1
Dyno-proven maximum gains of up to 33 whp and 30 wtq and peak gains of up to 28 whp and 21 wtq while maintaining safe AFRs on the stock tune (using 93 octane fuel)"
Thoughts???
Thanks, Aaron
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Every single intake will require a tune. These companies claiming no tune is required is just a gimmick to get people to buy them. They will not back you if their intake makes your engine go boom.
Some examples of no tune required parts:
-catback exhaust
-drop in replacement filter for stock airbox
-wheels
-aesthetic mods (exterior)
Examples of parts that REQUIRE tuning:
-intake
-J-pipe
-3 port ebcs
-tgv deletes
-injectors
-fuel pump
Do not put an intake on your car unless you are going to tune for it. Period.
Some examples of no tune required parts:
-catback exhaust
-drop in replacement filter for stock airbox
-wheels
-aesthetic mods (exterior)
Examples of parts that REQUIRE tuning:
-intake
-J-pipe
-3 port ebcs
-tgv deletes
-injectors
-fuel pump
Do not put an intake on your car unless you are going to tune for it. Period.
My answers to you depend on your response to me.
1. Why do you want an intake?
2. Do you value the factory warranty?
3. Do you believe Mishimoto's claims?
4. Do you understand why an aftermarket intake would produce additional power and torque (if at all) over the OEM airbox?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
1. Why do you want an intake?
2. Do you value the factory warranty?
3. Do you believe Mishimoto's claims?
4. Do you understand why an aftermarket intake would produce additional power and torque (if at all) over the OEM airbox?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
You have to tune it. End of story.
Why spend money to make your car run worse?
Well I guess that answers my question 
Going by their claim it seems like an easy bolt on 10-12 WHP that required no tune. I completely value my warranty and do not wish to do anything to void it. I also don't want to hurt the drivability. I appreciate everyone's responses.
Aaron
Going by their claim it seems like an easy bolt on 10-12 WHP that required no tune. I completely value my warranty and do not wish to do anything to void it. I also don't want to hurt the drivability. I appreciate everyone's responses. Aaron
Right off the Mishimoto site, no exception made for any octane fuel.
"Note Car must be tuned to use this intake."
Also there is 0 power to be made without tuning for the intake.
Adding the intake will probably throw fuel trims off wack in most cases making the car run overly rich and you may even just lose some performance.
It will make some cool sounds though
"Note Car must be tuned to use this intake."
Also there is 0 power to be made without tuning for the intake.
Adding the intake will probably throw fuel trims off wack in most cases making the car run overly rich and you may even just lose some performance.
It will make some cool sounds though
I'm sorry, but this is not 100% accurate.Also there is 0 power to be made without tuning for the intake.
Intakes like Mishimoto's make additional power by leaning out the AFR compared to the expected tabular values. OEM ECU calibration is designed to run very rich in order to increase detonation resistance and reduce NOx emissions. A leaner charge will produce more power, but also a faster and more chaotic flame front. OEMs account for a safety factor due to low quality fuel and extreme conditions (temperature, humidity, etc) and so it is generally safe to lean out the AFRs a bit more than the OEM calibration. This is where 90% of the gains are realized in an S1 map.
That being said, do you really want to invest in a product that effectively "tricks" the ECU into reducing the injector pulse width (IPW)? Think of all the other compensations that go into an ECU that scale fueling and timing for ambient conditions... the relationship between these compensations suddenly changes. I'm a firm believer that if you're going to do things, do it right. No Mishimoto for me.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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