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What the hell is wrong with technology today!!?!?!?!??!?!?! :mad:

I got a used Cobb AP off eBay and it just arrived today. I was going to check the maps on it at work but it was Friday afternoon and I just wanted to get out of there. So 11 pm tonight, I plug it into the car and bam, no stage 1 map. So I head into the house and install the Cobb software on my PC so I can put the right map on the AP, then hook up the serial cable to the AP and go to hook it up to my PC and there's NO SERIAL PORT ON MY PC!!!!!!!!!!! WTF!?!?!?!?!??!?!?!

So now I'll be waiting until Monday to go to work and see if my laptop has the right port, which I'm 99% sure it does. Family commitments mean I can't go into work tomorrow to take care of it.
 

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your computer doesn't have a USB port???? Its a USB port. Just plug the 5 pin (small) side of the cable that connects to the OBDII part and put that end in the AP, then the USB plug goes in the computer. Your gonna love it.
 

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It's an AP version 1, serial connection on both ends. :(
 

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Go to walmart - buy the USB to Serial adapter and use it, return it when you are done if you no longer need it.
 

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Serial ports are pretty much unused nowadays- they are considered "legacy" devices, and a lot of desktops in the last few years do not have them.

And most laptops in recent years do not.

As stated above, usb to serial adapters are available that can add a serial port to a legacy-free computer, but be careful of the REALLY cheap ones.

Cheap ones may not work well at all, so for something like an AccessPort I would say don't take the risk to save $20.

I tested one at work a couple of years ago that was fine- I think it was a Belkin unit and cost about $40 USD. They NEEDED a good one for critical control stuff for computerized boilers.
 

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Go to walmart - buy the USB to Serial adapter and use it, return it when you are done if you no longer need it.
+1 its that easy
 

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Well I'm first going to see if my work laptop has a serial port, and if not I'll go get an adapter, do what I need, and take it back. Or I might be able to pick one up at work. The IS support guys sit right near me and they might have one hanging around I can borrow.

As stated above, usb to serial adapters are available that can add a serial port to a legacy-free computer, but be careful of the REALLY cheap ones.

Cheap ones may not work well at all, so for something like an AccessPort I would say don't take the risk to save $20.
Sorry, but that doesn't make any sense. The adapter is simply a piece of plastic with some metal molded into it. I could see how a cheap one might not hold up as well as a pricier one for an application that required it to be plugged/unplugged a lot, but otherwise, a cheap one should work just as well as the more expensive one.
 

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I am not an electronics engineer, just someone who plays with a lot of computer hardware.

A serial port adapter is not just a straight connection between the pins of a serial port and a usb port.

Serial port has 9 pins
USB has 4 pins.

Their are electronic components (admittedly fairly simple ones) that convert the signals for one connection to the other.

For an analogy-
You speak english and MUST communicate with someone who only speaks Italian:
you can buy a little book for cheap and look words up or you can hire a translator who is fluent in both languages for twice the money.

The cheap way might work, and save you a few bucks.
It might be a huge hassle.

Spend a little bit MORE and it is likely to be fine and problem free.

Edit: To show this, here are links to both a serial port pinout and explanation of what each wire does and a USB pinout.
Serial Port
USB Port
 

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I can see what you're saying, and why you'd want a better engineered component for the application you were talking about that sounds like it needs to be reliable for a long time. I think the cheap connector would probably work ok for me. But since I'm planning on returning it anyway (if I can't get one from work) then it doesn't matter whether I spend the money on the better one since I'm getting it back in the long run anyway. :)
 

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I can see what you're saying, and why you'd want a better engineered component for the application you were talking about that sounds like it needs to be reliable for a long time. I think the cheap connector would probably work ok for me. But since I'm planning on returning it anyway (if I can't get one from work) then it doesn't matter whether I spend the money on the better one since I'm getting it back in the long run anyway. :)
if your reflash goes wrong you can be left with a motor that wont turn on, get the good cable, dont let cheap chinese electrical components screw up your STI
 

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if your reflash goes wrong you can be left with a motor that wont turn on, get the good cable, dont let cheap chinese electrical components screw up your STI
Which is exactly what my concern would be. :)
I think it most likely that either a cheap adapter would WORK or NOT work at all, but the slightest chance of wrecking the car seems too much to me, especially since a cheap adapter is 10-20 bucks and a good one 30-40.

You may decide to keep the thing in case you want to re-flash at some point (pretty sure I would) but even so, 20 or 30 bucks compared to a HUGE service bill for getting the car working again seems a trifle to me.

I gamble with lots of stuff- think nothing of risking a brand new computer and so on, but risking my CAR.... yeah, ok, I spent a lot of money and plan to be very cautious about voiding warranty on something that expensive. ;)
 

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Yeah I'll just get the good connector and return it when I'm done. By the time I need it again, I probably won't be able to find it, so might as well return it and save myself the money.

I'm on the same page as you guys when it comes to not screwing up my car. I don't go cheap on tires, oil, filters, or pretty much anything. You get what you pay for. It really gets me when people go cheap on their cars. It's the second largest investment you'll ever make in your life after a house. Don't mess with it!
 

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I had this same problem trying to connect my LC-1 wibeband to my computer. Make sure you buy one that is specific to your opperating software. I bought one that only works on the old windows and not vista. Infact I still have the one for the old windows. :baaa:
 

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I had this same problem trying to connect my LC-1 wibeband to my computer. Make sure you buy one that is specific to your opperating software. I bought one that only works on the old windows and not vista. Infact I still have the one for the old windows. :baaa:
That is actually one of the reasons I am particular with computer hardware-
I don't use windows at all.

Linux supports pretty much any hardware that follows the standards created by the various consortiums and recognized authorities, but a large number of windows devices do NOT and require specific drivers to run... and these are the problem devices most of the time. The cheap ones.

I'm not sure if I ever will try an AccessPort for this very reason- not sure how well I trust the programming to work properly in the emulation software I will NEED to use, as there is only a Windows version of the software.
 

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if your reflash goes wrong you can be left with a motor that wont turn on, get the good cable, dont let cheap chinese electrical components screw up your STI
The cable is connecting AP to the computer. It either works or it doesn't. If it doesn't then he's not going to be flashing his ECU anyway. Another option to consider is to get a PCI serial port - it's probably more reliable that getting a serial to USB cable.

Serial ports are pretty much unused nowadays- they are considered "legacy" devices, and a lot of desktops in the last few years do not have them.
Serial ports are pretty much unused in HOME applications. If you're running a Point-Of-Sale system or Digital X-Ray machine the chances are that you'll be using serial. You may not see them on many laptops of home PCs, but they are far from being legacy devices.
 

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Raven Logics said:
The cable is connecting AP to the computer. It either works or it doesn't. If it doesn't then he's not going to be flashing his ECU anyway. Another option to consider is to get a PCI serial port - it's probably more reliable that getting a serial to USB cable.
I pretty much agree that it is likely to work or not, and if it works the chances of a problem are slim. I just don't see ANY risk being worth saving what is literally just a couple of dollars.

Raven Logics said:
Serial ports are pretty much unused in HOME applications. If you're running a Point-Of-Sale system or Digital X-Ray machine the chances are that you'll be using serial. You may not see them on many laptops of home PCs, but they are far from being legacy devices.
What you say is true, but if you look up what a "legacy-free" computer is considered to be you will find that serial and printer ports are gone.
Serial and printer ports are considered "legacy" devices not required for standard desktops or laptops in the computer market.
Page describing "legacy free computing
Below text is from that page concerning hardware that is not allowed in a "legacy free" pc.

Minimum Legacy Hardware Removal Requirements
A legacy-free PC must achieve the following minimum level of legacy hardware removal.
* No COM, LPT, PS/2, or game ports. No external serial, parallel, or PS/2-compatible ports, and no ISA-based game ports or MPU-401 (MIDI) ports available for external connection or detected by the operating system. Systems can provide Super I/O-based IrDA support through 2001. Systems can use the 8042 controller internally, but must not include external PS/2 connectors. Legacy-free systems that use the 8042 controller internally must set the 8042 flag to 1 in the ACPI Fixed ACPI Description Table (FADT).

(Note that other hardware is listed, but removed for brevity in this post.)

Specialized hardware is still available in a number of machines, and in fact many desktops DO still have serial ports.
But they are considered "legacy" devices by the industry.
 
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