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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2005 STI that I just got back from the shop (Spun bearing), Parts/ Mods on car:
- iag stage 2 shortblock
- Exedy stage 1 clutch
- Gates performance racing timing belt kit
- arp head stud kit
- 3 angle valve job
- re-surface heads
- Tomei UnEqual Length Expreme Exhaust manifold
- PTP Turbo blanket
- DeatschWerks 255 LPH in-tank fuel pump
- DeatschWerks 850cc side feed injectors
- Moroso oil pickup tube
- COBB access port V3
- COBB tuning SF Intake and Airbox
- Motion Labs tuning 3-port EBCS (Boost Controller)
- Blouch TD05H-16G-XT Turbocharger w/STi oil feed line and 10CM hot side
- Invidia HS05SW1DPO STi Extra 02 Sensor Bung Downpipe
- COBB 512100 STi Catback Exhaust
- ACT 600235 Streetlite Flywheel
- Whiteline KCA313 Front Roll-centre/ bump-steer adjust kit
- TEIN GSS28-51SS4 Street Flex Coilovers
- Whiteline BSR37Z Rear 22mm adjustable Swaybar and mounts
- Whiteline BSF36XZ Front Sway Bar and mounts 24mm
- Whiteline KLC139 Front/Rear Adjustable link
- 2017 18” STi wheels

I am in the break-in period for the engine, break-in oil has been changed at 40-50 miles, next change is at 500, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, and final at 3000.
My questions are:
1. Is there a break-in for the clutch?
2. Can I drive it on an Economy Map?
3. Can I set the rev-limiter or set a Boost-limit with the Accessport?
4. What is the safest and smartest way to properly break this engine in? Looking for personal opinions and strategies.

And yes I am aware I should get the car professionally tuned to match the parts installed. I was told to break-in the engine before tuning and putting on a dyno.
 

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I have a 2005 STI that I just got back from the shop (Spun bearing), Parts/ Mods on car:
- iag stage 2 shortblock
- Exedy stage 1 clutch
- Gates performance racing timing belt kit
- arp head stud kit
- 3 angle valve job
- re-surface heads
- Tomei UnEqual Length Expreme Exhaust manifold
- PTP Turbo blanket
- DeatschWerks 255 LPH in-tank fuel pump
- DeatschWerks 850cc side feed injectors
- Moroso oil pickup tube
- COBB access port V3
- COBB tuning SF Intake and Airbox
- Motion Labs tuning 3-port EBCS (Boost Controller)
- Blouch TD05H-16G-XT Turbocharger w/STi oil feed line and 10CM hot side
- Invidia HS05SW1DPO STi Extra 02 Sensor Bung Downpipe
- COBB 512100 STi Catback Exhaust
- ACT 600235 Streetlite Flywheel
- Whiteline KCA313 Front Roll-centre/ bump-steer adjust kit
- TEIN GSS28-51SS4 Street Flex Coilovers
- Whiteline BSR37Z Rear 22mm adjustable Swaybar and mounts
- Whiteline BSF36XZ Front Sway Bar and mounts 24mm
- Whiteline KLC139 Front/Rear Adjustable link
- 2017 18” STi wheels

I am in the break-in period for the engine, break-in oil has been changed at 40-50 miles, next change is at 500, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, and final at 3000.
My questions are:
1. Is there a break-in for the clutch?
2. Can I drive it on an Economy Map?
3. Can I set the rev-limiter or set a Boost-limit with the Accessport?
4. What is the safest and smartest way to properly break this engine in? Looking for personal opinions and strategies.

And yes I am aware I should get the car professionally tuned to match the parts installed. I was told to break-in the engine before tuning and putting on a dyno.
1. Yes
2. Sure
3. I’m not sure. I believe there is a valet tune for that.
4. Whatever the builder of the block tells you. Anything else is conjecture.

Who ever told you to drive without some sort of break in tune on that car wants you to destroy it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So to be clear, you’re saying that I should have some kind of break-in tune flashed already and I shouldn’t be driving it at all until I have some kind of break-in tune flashed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hmmm, very interesting since the shop told me I would be perfectly fine to drive on the stock tune for the break-in of the new engine! I even made a big deal about the tune when they were building it and asked if they would research and make sure I did or did not need a tune for the break in... this pisses me off after just spending nearly $7k which now makes me doubt the integrity of the build.
 

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Did you change anything after the block was installed or did you just replace the block
 

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Oh so you had all the parts as they were and you just had to replace the block.

My bad yeah you’ll probably be ok. Just don’t go killing on it you’ll want to get combustion temps up and everything bedded but you don’t want to be at full boost at wot all the time
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh ok cool lol, and yes. I had all the aftermarket parts before the spun bearing so as far as new parts it would be the short block, stage 1 clutch, and gates timing belt kit
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
And as far as driving... I set the shift light at 3500 so I don’t go over, downshift through all gears and try to stay out of boost
 

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MichaelMabe said:
Hmmm, very interesting since the shop told me I would be perfectly fine to drive on the stock tune for the break-in of the new engine! I even made a big deal about the tune when they were building it and asked if they would research and make sure I did or did not need a tune for the break in... this pisses me off after just spending nearly $7k which now makes me doubt the integrity of the build.
Did you buy the block directly from IAG and DIY install or are you going through an IAG retailer? Did you simply supply the parts and have a random shop do the installation?

If you have the modifications listed on the vehicle, you 110% SHOULD NOT be running a "standard" / "base" ECU calibration; you need a CUSTOM calibration from a tuning shop. For example, you can't increase injector size by ~50% and not adjust the ECU to account for the additional fuel; you can't run an aftermarket boost control solenoid and expect to have any kind of control over your turbo; you can't install an aftermarket turbo and have the ignition and fueling tables calibrated for the additional load.

If the car was previously calibrated for the aftermarket parts (besides the longblock and any maintenance items like timing belt kit), and the calibration wasn't the cause of you replacing the engine (e.g., oil starvation), you may not need to get another calibration done for break-in. Monitoring data will be the only way to determine if that calibration needs to be adjusted (the heads were altered with the 3-angle valve job, and the compression ratio may have changed). I would certainly get a new calibration done once break-in is over, however.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It was a shop I found in my town that said they specialize in Subaru’s but after everything said and done I am very nervous about the build quality, they ordered it directly from iAG, and the rest of the mods were already installed so it was a matter of checking everything and freshening up the rest of the motor along with some machine work to the heads. They definitely weren’t as experienced as I thought they would be but they made sure they were careful and anal with the build ( so they say) . I just want to make sure 100% that I break this engine in the right way and it lasts me for a while.
 

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MichaelMabe said:
It was a shop I found in my town that said they specialize in Subaru’s but after everything said and done I am very nervous about the build quality, they ordered it directly from iAG, and the rest of the mods were already installed so it was a matter of checking everything and freshening up the rest of the motor along with some machine work to the heads. They definitely weren’t as experienced as I thought they would be but they made sure they were careful and anal with the build ( so they say) . I just want to make sure 100% that I break this engine in the right way and it lasts me for a while.
What shop? If you're not comfortable posting it publicly, feel free to PM the information to me.
 

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MichaelMabe said:
I don’t mind posting it publicly, it’s a shop in Winston-Salem, NC called North Point Motors.
For what it's worth, I've been deep in the Subaru world for over a decade, and I've never heard of them.

Were they able to determine what the engine failure cause was during teardown? If you hook the Cobb AP up to your car, there should be an option to show current map that's installed on the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
And yes, I do know how to somewhat work the accessport it does have all the tunes that were previously on it when it was tuned by Motion Labs. The current map says 2006 STi breakin or something I believe
 

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MichaelMabe said:
And yes, I do know how to somewhat work the accessport it does have all the tunes that were previously on it when it was tuned by Motion Labs. The current map says 2006 STi breakin or something I believe
Find out exactly what map is installed on the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
MichaelMabe said:
And yes, I do know how to somewhat work the accessport it does have all the tunes that were previously on it when it was tuned by Motion Labs. The current map says 2006 STi breakin or something I believe
Find out exactly what map is installed on the vehicle.
 

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