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Okay, I have no clue when it come to alignments what I am doing. I know what camber, caster and toe are but know nothing about the number that go with them. I'm looking to get an alignment in the next few days, a semi aggressive alignment that will help handling but not tear up my tires. My tires are summer tires though and only on for a few months a year, I have another set to change to in the winter. I'm looking for something like on a semi agressive street/ mild autox setup. My car is a 2004 WRX sedan and my suspension mods are as follows:

Version 8 USDM STI springs on stock struts
22mm Front sway bar
ALK w/ comfort bushing
Cusco Version 2 lower arm bar
22-26mm Rear Sway bar (set on 26mm:D )
Rear alloy endlinks
Rear Subframe Lock bolts (not in yet)

Please help me what #s I should run with. My friend work at NTB and is doing the alignment but just told me to ask what the best setup on this car would be in it's current condition. He could do stock all day but I want something more aggressive. Thanks
 

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Without rear camber bolts theres only so much tweaking you'll be able to do back there so just have them push the struts around until you get as close to equal on both sides as you can. If you can, try to get it to about -1 degree of camber in the rear but you'll probably end up with more negative camber than that. Set the rear toe to 0. Up front also set the toe to zero and use the camber bolts to get as much negative camber as possible while keep both sides the same.
 

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Depending on the setup- you should be able to get -1.0 thru-1.4ish w/ the oem eccentric bolts up front. Like driggity said get the cross camber close to 0, so even if you get -1.4 on one side and can only get -1.0 on the other- drop the high side to -1.0 to get camber even.

0 toe front rear- again make sure the #'s left/right are very, very close- cross toe.

The rear there is no adjustment (except puhing/pulling which many shops are going to poo-poo) but they should be close to -1.3 ish in the rear.

One thing some might consider (if you autox a fair amount) is a little toe out front/rear- say a mm/side- still within stock spec, but will give you better turn in and a little more rotation. Your tires are more susceptible to wear, but 1mm isn't a lot of toe, so shouldn't be bad.

Big Sky
 

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I don't auto-x at all due to my mods, but I do take freeway ramps and, since I live in Jersey, "jughandles" at some decent speeds.

Thanks for the input!!:thumbup:
 

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Do you think that rear camber is a bit much? or are you quoting those numbers because of the intensely large sway bar?

What would you suggest the camber in the rear to be with a 22 mm bar set at 22
 

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If you want to go w/ camber bolts -1.0, if not the oem -1.3 is fine. The rear needs neg camber as well. It's just that the front needs it more.

Big Sky
 
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