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I got an alignment today and found out something odd. The front passenger tire's camber would not adjust more than .15 of a degree with full rotation of the camber bolt!!! It would hover between -0.25 to -0.40 degrees of camber. I heard of guys getting -1.3 degrees of of camber in the front on stock bolts. Is there something wrong with my suspension? Everything was in spec except for the toe wasn't zero'd which was fixed. Why won't my camber in the front adjust?

The rear was also off some but still in spec. Subaru has vast stock alignment specs. I know I need to get rear camber bolts for the rear but why wouldn't the front adjust at all. I was looking to do an aggressive street setup but I have to figure out what is wrong first. Thanks guys
 

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Something doesn't sound copacetic. You should get at least 1 degree of adjustment. How much did the other side yield? Did he have the lower bolt loose? This is a common error on alignment shop's part- the lower bolt has to be loose or you won't get much adjustment at all.

Big Sky
 

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I don't believe he loosened the lower bolt which is what I am thinking the issue may be. The drivers side was -1.0 degrees and we didn't touch that side.

I'm gonna let him know about that and see if that helps. What kind of numbers should I be running in the front? I was thinking like -1.3 or so (if I can get it). Also, without camber bolts in the rear they will not adjust at all, correct? The rears were a little wacked with a -1.75 degrees on the driver-side and a -1.25 degrees on the passengers side. Is there anyway of tweeking the rear without bolts? Thanks for the help Big Sky.
 

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About -1.3 in front sounds about right to me for a goal with the front camber bolts. You can loosen up the bolts in the rear and wiggle things around to try to get equal numbers on each side. Some alignment shops won't try this though as technically the rear camber is not adjustable.
 

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I've been able to get a tenth or two (tops) in the rear (before I got camber bolts) to get a good cross camber in the rear. It's difficult and driggity is correct most shops won't bother. What you need to do is loosen both rear bolts- and then push and pull like a SOB on the wheel- while the alignment guy trys to tighten things up. Which part of the wheel (top or bottom) your pushing is dependent on if your trying to gain or lose camber.

In your case you may be able to increase the one side to -1.4ish and decrease the other to -1.5ish. Your probably better off getting camber bolts and dialing in the rear to ~ -1.0ish.

Your alignment guy will find plenty of adjustment w/ both bolts loosened up front.
I'd reccomend getting the fronts even, regardless of what #'s you can get ie if you can get -1.4 on one side and only -1.1 on the other- come down to -1.1 for both.

Big Sky
 
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