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Hey hey,

Looking to wax my car for the summer. Any suggestions on what wax to use. Looking for a quick job that lasts awhile.
 

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I've always just used NuFinish about twice a year, that stuff in the orange bottle. It's easy to use, only like $8, and I've always been really happy with the results. I'm sure you'll get 20 other opinions on other brands though, everyone has their favorite.
 

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I only use high end carnuba wax. I re-wax at least every month. Don't know of anything out there that will realistically last you all summer. Take care of that finish, especially during summer months..... once it gets car cancer there is no going back without spending big bucks for a new paint job.
 

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$$ car care products so worth it. Just finished detailing the STI after work Friday. ^ years old and looks better than a new car on the lot. STI finish.jpg sti hood.jpg
 

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black fire Crystal seal
its a wipe on walk away..no buffing needed and people are seeing a good 2-3months of protection from it..i got a bottle coming tomorrow.
doesnt cost alot and very little is needed..can put applied to all plastics and glass as well
BLACKFIRE Crystal Seal Paint Sealant, best paint sealant, paint sealer
Just cause a Wax cost ALOT doesnt mean its going to last a long time. I have Wolfgang Fuzion, Pinnacel souveran, few Dodojuice waxes and I will say you are paying for ease of use. The Fuzion and souveran spread like a dream and remove with no effort. But souvern will only offer about 3weeks worth before it falls off. its a beauty wax. Fuzion will probably give you 1.5-2months but its not something crazy. Now Colinite 845 is only 15buxks a bottle and will last a good 4-6months depending on the weather conditions. it looks good to. but if you accidently get it on black trim it will stain it unlike the more expensive waxes. in the end 90% of the look of the wax means CRAp unless the paint is prepped properly.
 

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Lando Calrissian
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NuFinish/F21 and the like are car polishes, not waxes. They contain very very fine abrasives that help to remove surface build up and contaminants.... most of them contain some sort of polymer sealant, but they are not waxes. These are designed more to restore a finish that has dulled than to prolong a new car finish. They are basically an ultra fine rubbing compound mixed with a hand glaze polymer.

If you really want to do it right, you would clay-bar the car, then wax with a carnuba based wax. I'm not going to drop any names on what to use, as there are many good ones out there (in many different price points), and I have not tried them all yet.....

but I will tell you not to use the Meguiar's NXT Generation® Tech Wax....last summer I tried that on recommendation from parts store gear head....hated that stuff. It is a newer polymer based wax like product...went on real easy, but did not last long (only a few short weeks), and it required more product per application than a carnuba wax does.
 

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sorry to sound mean but NuFinish is straight garbage. Since your local go head out to Monroville to Autoality to get some good stuff that wont break the bank if you dont want to. Nufinish is just crappy as seen on TV stuff that isnt going to do much for you. they try to make it sound like its something great but it isnt. Claying then waxing really isnt the proper way to go either. Claying is to remove embedded contaminants in the paint. if you want to do it properly you need to clay then Polish the car with a machine and some quality polish because claying will induce micromarring or more depending on how dirty and how aggressive clay you are using.
If you want to try anything i got a 6foot cabinet FULL of high end detailing supplies. you can see what a difference quality product is vs that crap walmart sells.
Also towels are VERY important. Not just any MF towel will get the job done without scratching the paint. I have specific towels that I use to only touch my paint with and the rest are for everything else. The stuff they sell at walmart or most chain stores is a everything else towel as they will leave micromarring on the paint.
This is my cabinet
 

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P21s wax lasted a decent amount of time in Florida for a carnuba, but for the best protection and longevity I would personally go with a sealant. Klasse all in one followed by klasse sealant glaze is a nice easy combination that lasts forever and a little goes a Kong way. Its not necessarily cheap but it really will be a good value at the length of time it protects. Another off the shelf easy to get one is Meguiars ultimate wax. It actually is a synthetic sealant not wax, and the few times I have seen it on a black car it looks pretty good and seems to hold up well, with anything you pick however, the key will be in the prep/clay/Polish involved. That will go a long way to the wax lasting and looking good longer.

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I've had good and lasting results with NuFinish.. although that was on older cars with badly neglected paint. It's not something I would use on a car with good paint. Last time I really washed a car I pressure washed, then dish soap and a sponge, cleaning it off frequently. Then clay bar, another quick rinse, then Zaino Bros. Z-2 PRO™ Show Car Polish followed by Z-6™ Ultra Clean Gloss Enhancer Spray. Then about once a week I would dust it off (or pressure wash if needed) and reapply the gloss spray. It looked really good, but it also helped that I had PPG, not crappy Subaru paint.
 

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Lando Calrissian
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Doobis....I was not stating that I use NuFinish....I don't....I too think it is crap. I was just explaining that it is not a wax, and should not be expected to act as one.

I appreciate the offer of allowing me to sample some of the products you have....if there is anything on the 'expensive' side that I am on the fence about getting, I will shoot you a PM to see if you have/had it, and what your takes on it are.

I have found a few high quality products in various price points that I will use, but they are by no means the best.....though I will likely start getting into the better ones after I find a house to buy. My current apartment living does not allow for things like a detailing goodie chest...sadly

As for the clay comments, living in the Pittsburgh area I would think you would agree that a daily driven car does come in contact with a lot of contaminants which a clay bar job done say once a year would help with....as long as you get good quality clay, and thoroughly clean the car first. Hell, you can wash and wax your car here, not drive it 2 feet, allow it to rain, and when the water dries, your car is horridly dirty again.

additionally, with as soft as the Subaru paint is known to be, micro marring will likely happen no matter how nice of a MF towel you use, so I am not as worried about that.
 

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and the Funky Bunch
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After reading so much about the terrible quality of Subaru paint, I am curious, do you think your mustang had worse?
 

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I am not sure..I havnt actually gotten to dive into the paint much because I had the dealer NOT touch the car when i got it..so the paint was perfect so I really havnt had to do anything to the car for a perfect finish. When i bought my stang it was already on the lot through a winter and they brushed it off and the paint looked like 10year old car paint. it took me a long time to fix that paint thats when I found out how hard it was to find a perfect combo of finish polish and buffing pad that would finish to a flawless surface. I take all the precaution with everything to make sure no scratches are being induced to my paint during washes, waxing, and quick detailing. Nothing is perfect but I do my best to keep it that way to minimize the amount of buffing the car needs. i will have to say the DGM paint color really really hids imperfections as well though. I had a few I cleaned out but I had a REALLY hard time finding them. The mustang pure black paint showed every minute imperfection. Metallic flake really does alot to help hide fine imperfections.
 

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Lando Calrissian
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Calvin....over the past 10-15 years all factory auto paints have been moved to either water based, or ones specially formulated to be eco friendly..... as a result, many new cars some with paint that is akin to pudding skin. Only some of the real high end expensive cars come with decent paint out of the factory any more.
 

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Forget waxing and detailing all the time. I used Opti-Coat 2.0 on my car and love it! I highly recommend it for crappy Subaru paint.
 

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i was going to opti-coat my car..but detailing is my relaxing and winding down thing..so i dont wanna do something were I dont need to do anything anymore..plus i am a product junkie and I like to try new products ALL the time. opticoat is a great thing to do if you dont want to have to do alot of upkeep and the fact that it hardens harder then alot of clears out there it adds a good bit of scratch protection to the paint.
 

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Lando Calrissian
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great.....so I will be spending some time after I get my house polishing the bejesus out of my car, then applying the Opti-Coat.

While I do enjoy detailing my car, and I am a strong believer in hand waxing your car, that product seams amazing. Additionally, spending 3 hours buffing and waxing is not always one of those things I have time for.
 

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3hrs LOL..it takes me atleast 6-8 just to give it a quick polish and wax
hell it takes me 2-2.5hrs just to wash my car
 
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