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Discussion Starter #1
Just received the VF34, STi Injectors 565 CC, and the Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump in the mail. Was looking at the TXS stg4 install guide and I realized that the install had directions that started with the removal of exhaust and many other items that I’m not planning on removing. Now, if I don’t remove any other items, will this effect my turbo/injector/FP install? Will it be easier to do the install WITH the exhaust, etc. removed?

Second, I currently have up-pipe, down-pipe, exhaust, FMIC, and TXS UTEC installed. Any recommendation for removal of any of these items? And will it be ok if I just do the tuning myself with the UTEC? I have a laptop that I’ve attached before with my other installs. Dunno if I should do the same with the new installs.

Last thing, can you guys/gals give any advice as to what I should look out for? Any/all advices regarding the turbo install will be greatly appreciated.
 

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Just skip the steps, they have them listed on the TXS site in the break down of the order...if it says remove exhaust obviously you're not. But it should break the steps into, well steps, that should basically section off each piece.
 

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When you lift up on the turbo to remove it from the uppipe, plug the coolant tubes or atleast be careful to not spill too much coolant down the uppipe. I don't think it will actually hurt anything but mine smoked bad after starting. I took my car out and it layed down a smoke screen like you'd see in knight rider or something LOL. It went away pretty quick though.
 

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Cuda said:
When you lift up on the turbo to remove it from the uppipe, plug the coolant tubes or atleast be careful to not spill too much coolant down the uppipe. I don't think it will actually hurt anything but mine smoked bad after starting. I took my car out and it layed down a smoke screen like you'd see in knight rider or something LOL. It went away pretty quick though.
Yep, the inside diameter of the coolant tubes that feed the turbo are 1/2". I plugged them using 1/2" bolts, and then rubberbanded some small plastic baggies over the ends to catch any dribbles.

Also, to do the injector install, you'll have to remove the small coolant reservoir that's on the passenger side, in front of the turbo. I sucked all the coolant out of it using a large syringe, then pulled it off. 2 bolts on top of the intake, one that goes into the passenger side Green bracket of Death. (TurboXS' instructions have you draining all of the coolant from the car. I didn't want to do all of that, then go through burping the system, etc.)
 

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Cuda said:
When you lift up on the turbo to remove it from the uppipe, plug the coolant tubes or atleast be careful to not spill too much coolant down the uppipe. I don't think it will actually hurt anything but mine smoked bad after starting. I took my car out and it layed down a smoke screen like you'd see in knight rider or something LOL. It went away pretty quick though.
i spilt about a cup full of coolant down in my up pipe during my install yesterday lol.... well looks like i can look forward for some smoke.
 

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so ray, you didn't drain the coolant @ all and it was fine? i was thinking of doing the same...

(no, i'm not stalking you, just a week or 2 behind you in mods)
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
dang, i just got the turbocharger removed. had to pull the txs downpipe(that was previously installed) away from the turbo in order to take the turbo out. that took well over 2 hours to accomplish too!
well, looking forward to installing the injectors and the FP next. any additional 'warnings' and/or advices for THIS procedure? haven't really got into the GBOD yet, and i'm really not looking forward to working around THAT.
btw, any idea on how long it usuallly takes someone to finish the entire install process? trying my best to work nice and slow in order to prevent any mistakes or worse... really beginning to wish that i had paid the 500 to get this thing installed now... it's so much work! :sadwave:
 

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Its a PITA install, but its a good experience. The GBOD aren't that bad. Well at least for me it wasn't. The hardest part of them was working them out of their spot. The bolts were pretty easy to get to for me. Just use a wrench to get at the bolts in the back. I found that putting an old pool stick in the coolant lines worked pretty well. Good luck with the rest of the install. Its a great feeling after everything is accomplished. As for with the UTEC I would read up about that. I don't know much about tuning, but I would find a base map to download for the turboxs stage 4. Check out www.wrxhackers.com to find some maps that others are sharing that will fit your setup.
 

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earlmale said:
so ray, you didn't drain the coolant @ all and it was fine? i was thinking of doing the same...
Nope. I put down plastic bags under the car for that few seconds when you've first got the hoses off, and haven't got them blocked off yet. I shoved a 1/2" bolt into the hose, bagged it to catch the dribbles. When I discovered the fact that I was going to have to remove the small coolant reservoir, my wife came up with the idea of using a small syringe to suck out the coolant. (We have small children, so we've got an abundance of the little syringes that you use to shove medicine into a child's mouth.) \

I just had to make it clear to my wife that my coolant syringe was no longer for that purpose. ;)

Then of course, when I was done, I refilled the coolant reservoir and verified that I had enough coolant in the car. No problem!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
kewl deal! that really helps~
just got through installing the walbro fp tonight. took about an hour to take it out and install the new one.
looking forward to start working on the injectors tomorrow. will prolly take one side/nite, and try to get the turbo installed by friday night.

btw, i noticed that other states have 93 octane gas, but here in cali, we got the 91's. any idea how i can tune the txs utec to get along with our cheap fuel?
 

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and another thing, any tips on injector install? just got the two GBOD's removed and wanted to know the steps i should take in removing and replacing the injectors. thanks in advance again guys.
 

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The TurboXS Stage 4 instructions are pretty helpful, there. Basically, there are 2 12mm bolts that are plainly visible, holding the fuel rail down on each side of the car. Those come out, then you have to look for another 12mm bolt towards the front of the car that holds the fuel line in place. The rail will pull up and out enough for you to remove the stock injectors. Gas will leak all over your fingers, or at least it did on mine.

Look for the little O-Ring that goes down in the injector seat (or hole, or whatever you call the place that the injectors go down in). My STi injectors didn't come with those, so I was able to reuse the stock ones. I put just a small smear of lithium grease around each of the 3 O-rings on the new injectors, to help them seat without damage, then gently eased them into position. Then you reverse the process to get the fuel rails back down and in position over the tops of the new injectors.

Before you attempt to start the car, repressurize the fuel pump (I'm assuming that you have the TurboXS instructions, and know how to depressurize it) by turning the ignition to the "ON" position. Quickly go look at your injectors to see if there is any leakage. Look and smell for any gas leaking around the top or bottom of the injector locations. You don't want an engine fire.

I'm sure others have more wisdom to offer...:wiggles:

Edited for spelling
 

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something that i did that no one has mentioned is to push the injectors into the fuel rails instead of into the engine. the injectors pop in in- you'll feel it

i think that this is the most important connection to make b/c that's where people have leaks.

so, i popped the injectors into the fuel rails and then lowered them into the engine block and tightened the screws. worked for me, no leaks.

good luck!
 
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