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Discussion Starter #1
I've heard various opinions on the up pipe install. I saw that during the Grimmspeed install video (which I can't tell what model it was on actually - I think it was a pre-08 STi) that they had to fight with it a good bit to get the stock one pulled out after unbolting it due to the heat shields and such attached to the pipe. I've been recommended to plan on lifting the engine up a bit - but I am trying to avoid that because I don't have an engine hoist and don't trust jacking the engine up by the oil pan.

I plan on using a lot of PB Blaster on all bolts involved and making sure to let it sit... possibly give them a whack with a hammer and a socket if needed. I'm hoping that I can just yank the stocker out with some convincing (and gloves) and slide the new one in.

Any tips in advance?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So, in response to my own question... This install would be fantastic if you are a masochist. I am a slowww mechanic, but this was just downright painful. Install was on a 2011 STi hatch. Was a grimmspeed up/dump pipe and a tial 44mm EWG. Have stock headers and an invidia catless down pipe. Stock turbo. Also put on the grimmspeed internal waste gate bracket (great piece by the way)

Some lessons learned for reference.
Time restraints:
-If you can't easily see a part when you start an install, add 6 hours to the initial time figure to learn how the part actually fits together.

Tools:
-Make sure to have plenty of socket extensions and at least one of those (normally evil) universal joint things.
-Also try to kick up some low clearance sockets/wrenches. A nice small 1/4" rachet and some matching sockets will pay for themselves in frustration either with this install or the next one (cough, shifter bushings)
-Get a big huge breaker bar. I had a 3' one from harbor freight. It was the only way I could comfortably and safely apply enough torque to the uppipe/turbo bolts with all of the extensions and such.
-Get a small breaker bar as well. I have a cheapo 1' from tractor supply. The pivot at the top allows it to get in a lot of places a socket can't.
-Don't forget gaskets. Will need one for the down pipe if its getting older. I'd also get one for the passenger side exhaust manifold aside from just both up pipe ones.
-Consider a high quality o2 sensor socket. The stock front 02 sensor was a pain for me.
-Some type of pressure tester that allows you to keep a specific constant pressure on the waste gate diaphragm (explanation below)

Up pipe install:
-Yes, I dropped the down pipe. It was laying on the floor under the rear wheels. One less thing to worry about.
-There is a heat shield over the bottom half of of the up pipe and exhaust manifold. I loosened it so I could get a wrench on the 02 sensor easier. The extruded washer around the sensor made this harder than you'd think - used a shot of pb blaster on it as per the subaru manual suggestion. I wiped it off very well afterwards to be safe.
-I jacked the engine up and pulled the pipe out up top behind the turbo. I didn't have a spare gasket for the manifold, so this prevented me from having to drop that. I jacked up the engine enough to clear the studs on the up pipe from the turbo when pulled down. To do this, obviously unbolt the bottom of your engine mounts from the cross member, and the tranny mount. I jacked it up using the wide flat section of the transmission - making sure to keep an eye on the jack stands the car was resting on to make sure I wasn't lifting the whole car. Just cleared it.
-Up pipe wasn't too bad. I think if I did it again, it wouldn't take too long. Did take a while to find out what I was dealing with.

EWG:
-Buy a lot of beer before starting this. It's a pain.
-I'd suggest doing all you can outside of the car. Assemble the EWG with your spring(s) and all. Find out what plugs you need and plug the spare air holes if needed.
-I had to sand down the flange on the dump pipe to fit in the v-band on the Tial unit. Grimmspeed agreed it was an issue since the kit was designed for a different brand EWG. Regardless, 30 minutes with a fine metal file and a workbench did a nice job. I made sure to file flat across both sides of the flange the whole time.
-You'll learn to hate the v-band on the up pipe side. I'd actually put the EWG on the up pipe and see if you can drop the up pipe in the car with it already on (behind the turbo). Would save you a lot of grief later.
-The grief... To get the v-band around the two flanges, you have to compress the springs while getting the vband clipped around the flanges. This is INCREDIBLY hard to do. A 1 bar spring is hard to compress to begin with, let alone in the tiny area given, and trying to put a small vband around it at the same time. I'd recommend finding a way to keep a pressure on the side of the diaphragm for this. It's easy if the valve seat isn't in the way. Not so much when the spring is pushing the valve seat out as it normally is. To get around this, I called in a friend from work who luckily could stop by and help. I now am doing his shift linkage bushings while he is working on his timing belt (great trade believe it or not).
-I would not feel comfortable doing this again without being able to pressurize the waste gate while assembling it. A bolted flange would have been MUCH easier.
-After doing this, you can't torque down the lower right bolt on my invidia bellmouth dp. So, you have to take off the dump pipe and somehow torque the bolt down. Then try again. I'm not sure what the correct order for this install should be. Every way there is trade offs. Perhaps now that I'm not using the wastegate half the down pipe, a plate type blockoff for that half the pipe would be nicer as opposed to a divorced bellmouth setup.

IWG bracket:
-Watch grimmspeed video. Win.
-Kinda a pain while the turbo is installed, but not too bad. Just a bit of hand cramping.
-8mm ratcheting box wrench would have made it a breeze.

So that's about it. Hope that your wb02 isn't in cooking proximity to the dump pipe. Depending on how many beers it took to finish the install (most likely too many), drink more and then wait until the next day to try it out.

Otherwise, I'd suggest zeroing your boost control tables (max wgdc, initial wgdc, max wgdc post comp, etc) and just making sure it works with mechanical spring pressure. After all is said and done, make sure to supply ample beer to those that helped. Perhaps a nice cigar as well. I'd suggest a prize to whoever actually got the stupid v-band around the uppipe/EWG connection.

Good luck. Feel free to shoot me a PM or post back if you have any questions.
 

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Wow, that is one install I would not want to tackle. Did you take any pics during the process?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Some. I will post them up when I can. It's just a very difficult install if you aren't prepared.

I'd highly suggest finding a way to compress the wastegate spring with a pressure tester of sorts if it is a vband connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wow glad I had a lift when I did mine. It only took 90 minutes from start to finish. 2011 WRX
An Ewg kit and up pipe took 90 minutes? Considering I did a lot of mine from above the car, I really doubt a lift would be that useful. I think even dropping and re torqueing the down pipe would take an hour itself.
 

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An Ewg kit and up pipe took 90 minutes? Considering I did a lot of mine from above the car, I really doubt a lift would be that useful. I think even dropping and re torqueing the down pipe would take an hour itself.
Dropping the dp on a lift take 10min if that. I have done a few of these, the 38mm and 44mm. They are not that hard to do. If it was your first time and doing it from the top than yes it would probably take that long. This was done with a subbie tech who is a freind and member of my car club.

1. Drop down pipe.
2. Install IWG bracket.
3. Remove uppipe.
4. Mount GS uppipe.
5. Mount EWG.
6. Put dump tube on.
7. Bolt dp back up.
8. Flash new map or run off spring pressure until you get tuned.

You can go as far as removing the heat shield around the header and dropping the header. You can also remove the motor mount bolt on the pasenger side to add some clearence. Also the 02 sensor. Some of these steps make it easier but are not exactly necessary.
 

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EWG:
-The grief... To get the v-band around the two flanges, you have to compress the springs while getting the vband clipped around the flanges. This is INCREDIBLY hard to do. A 1 bar spring is hard to compress to begin with, let alone in the tiny area given, and trying to put a small vband around it at the same time. I'd recommend finding a way to keep a pressure on the side of the diaphragm for this. It's easy if the valve seat isn't in the way. Not so much when the spring is pushing the valve seat out as it normally is. To get around this, I called in a friend from work who luckily could stop by and help. I now am doing his shift linkage bushings while he is working on his timing belt (great trade believe it or not).
-I would not feel comfortable doing this again without being able to pressurize the waste gate while assembling it. A bolted flange would have been MUCH easier.
Hint next time press on the wastegate to open the diaphragm and put a small allen key in between the diaphragm to keep the EWG open. This will help with putting the v-band on. Maybe it would be better if I had a picture to show you. When I do my buddies uppipe and ewg next month I will take a picture of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hint next time press on the wastegate to open the diaphragm and put a small allen key in between the diaphragm to keep the EWG open. This will help with putting the v-band on. Maybe it would be better if I had a picture to show you. When I do my buddies uppipe and ewg next month I will take a picture of it.
That would be a good idea if you had a really big allen wrench. I'd highly recommend that, or a pressure tester of sorts. Anything to keep you from fighting with it while getting a tiny vband around it. As per a tip from EJ, I found a piece of wood and a large wood working clamp makes it easier to compress the wastegate if you don't have a second set of hands. I really could barely compress this unless I was leaning on it or similar. I know the woodworking clamp I used had a rough time as well.

Also, having more than one person and having done it several times would make life a lot easier - that'd be pretty close to a 2x time reduction with an install like this. Working night shift puts a dent in that department normally. It's a good point to bring up though. This install has a lot of work that can be done in parallel if you have a competent buddy around to drop exhaust while you work on the top half.

I still think 90 minutes is pretty optimistic however. Doesn't allow for one single complication either.
-Also forgot about wrestling the intercooler off/on (which is either a 30 second or 20 minute affair on my car - just depends if you get the compressor outlet on the first go). I'm not sure how the WRX intercoolers are.
-I found it impossible to clear the studs on the turbo/mount without jacking the car up. You could drop your exhaust manifold instead... but I'd say you need to do one of the two. I fought that thing for a good half hour, but there was no physical way to get the up pipe studs off of the turbo/mounts without one of the two.
-There is no way to tighten the bottom bolts on a bellmouth downpipe (at least on the invidia I have) after you attach the EWG & dump pipe. I could barely even get a finger on it to spin the bolt. To prevent us from taking the EWG off again, we just took the dump pipe off. Could get a standard open ended wrench on the bolt and turn it a fifth a turn at a time (at a funny angle). I don't think we got it torqued anywhere close to proper torque still and am half expecting a leak. I don't even think a crows foot wrench would get to that bolt. In hind sight, next time I'll fight the battle and get the EWG mounted after the down pipe is torqued down. Or get a downpipe with a block off plate instead of a divorced bellmouth.

I don't want to point the finger and say you are full of anything by any means, I don't want people to get the wrong impression about this though. This is not something you should count on getting done in a reasonable amount of time without having done it before, having a great selection of tools, at least one spare set of hands, and a lot of luck that everything fits correct (cough, dump pipe flange).
 

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That would be a good idea if you had a really big allen wrench. I'd highly recommend that, or a pressure tester of sorts. Anything to keep you from fighting with it while getting a tiny vband around it. As per a tip from EJ, I found a piece of wood and a large wood working clamp makes it easier to compress the wastegate if you don't have a second set of hands. I really could barely compress this unless I was leaning on it or similar. I know the woodworking clamp I used had a rough time as well.

Also, having more than one person and having done it several times would make life a lot easier - that'd be pretty close to a 2x time reduction with an install like this. Working night shift puts a dent in that department normally. It's a good point to bring up though. This install has a lot of work that can be done in parallel if you have a competent buddy around to drop exhaust while you work on the top half.

I still think 90 minutes is pretty optimistic however. Doesn't allow for one single complication either.
-Also forgot about wrestling the intercooler off/on (which is either a 30 second or 20 minute affair on my car - just depends if you get the compressor outlet on the first go). I'm not sure how the WRX intercoolers are.
-I found it impossible to clear the studs on the turbo/mount without jacking the car up. You could drop your exhaust manifold instead... but I'd say you need to do one of the two. I fought that thing for a good half hour, but there was no physical way to get the up pipe studs off of the turbo/mounts without one of the two.
-There is no way to tighten the bottom bolts on a bellmouth downpipe (at least on the invidia I have) after you attach the EWG & dump pipe. I could barely even get a finger on it to spin the bolt. To prevent us from taking the EWG off again, we just took the dump pipe off. Could get a standard open ended wrench on the bolt and turn it a fifth a turn at a time (at a funny angle). I don't think we got it torqued anywhere close to proper torque still and am half expecting a leak. I don't even think a crows foot wrench would get to that bolt. In hind sight, next time I'll fight the battle and get the EWG mounted after the down pipe is torqued down. Or get a downpipe with a block off plate instead of a divorced bellmouth.

I don't want to point the finger and say you are full of anything by any means, I don't want people to get the wrong impression about this though. This is not something you should count on getting done in a reasonable amount of time without having done it before, having a great selection of tools, at least one spare set of hands, and a lot of luck that everything fits correct (cough, dump pipe flange).
No you are exactly right and I do not think you are telling me I am full of it. I am just letting people know it does not take as long as one would think. You are right though, if this is someones first time doing it and they are doing it by themselves it can be a headache. It is always a good idea to have a buddy with you who is competent enough to be able to help you. It can be done in a reasonable amount of time just takes practice.
 
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