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Quick question. I have a 2010 WRX and was wondering if getting a tune (from a local shop) without other mods is worth it? What type of HP gains would I get? I will eventally will do other mods but not any time soon.
 

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Yeah you can go stage 1 from your local tuner. It seems to be a fairly good increase, almost 20% from what I've heard
 

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A stage 2 will not get you 350hp... Maybe at the crank shaft but not to the wheels.

Yes you can see a good increase in power with a pro tune from your local tuner. The car will feel a lot different.
 

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Yeah you can go stage 1 from your local tuner. It seems to be a fairly good increase, almost 20% from what I've heard
A lot depends on how good the tuner is, but it's doubtful you're going to get 20%. Something in the 10-12% range for an increase in peak numbers is pretty realistic for just stage 1. You should be able to get 15% with stage 2 pretty easily and maybe 20% peak if the tuner knows his stuff.

i would do a stage 2, just need a new downpipe. makes like 350hp easy
A stage 2 will not get you 350hp... Maybe at the crank shaft but not to the wheels.
Um yeah you're not going to get anywhere near 350 HP, even at the crank. Figuring a 15% increase would be good, that means about 305 at the crank. Even at 20% you're still looking at only 318.

Yes you can see a good increase in power with a pro tune from your local tuner. The car will feel a lot different.
Yeah it'll make a very noticeable difference.

You're going to have to pay to get a new tune all over again though once you get any more parts. Personally, I'd wait until you have a DP on the car and then drop the dough on getting it tuned.
 

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Yes my friend did a stage 2 on his 2011 nd he is making 350hp on crank.


A lot depends on how good the tuner is, but it's doubtful you're going to get 20%. Something in the 10-12% range for an increase in peak numbers is pretty realistic for just stage 1. You should be able to get 15% with stage 2 pretty easily and maybe 20% peak if the tuner knows his stuff.




Um yeah you're not going to get anywhere near 350 HP, even at the crank. Figuring a 15% increase would be good, that means about 305 at the crank. Even at 20% you're still looking at only 318.


Yeah it'll make a very noticeable difference.

You're going to have to pay to get a new tune all over again though once you get any more parts. Personally, I'd wait until you have a DP on the car and then drop the dough on getting it tuned.
 

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Kadir07 said:
Yes my friend did a stage 2 on his 2011 nd he is making 350hp on crank.
What shop pulled his motor and put it on an engine dyno?
 

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I dont know what shop he took it in but i helped him put up the race downpipe. He showed me the dyno sheet it was 290 on wheels. Nd 350 on crank.
 

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Doing stage 1 without any mods is a huge increase and I'll clarify on this big time for you.

I recently did stage 1 Opensource on my 2011 and While yes I can notice the power upgrade it is not why I did stage 1.

It's everything else. The car just runs better, Stock tune Blows. The throttle response is night and day difference, doing as much driving as I do i wish I wouldn't have waited 4k miles to do the tune. no with that being said I am already planning my next step whic will be pro-tune and I'll be pushing for over 300hp at the wheels and trust me it's alot more than just a tune and DP.
 

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I don’t know what shop he took it in but i helped him put up the race downpipe. He showed me the dyno sheet it was 290 on wheels. Nd 350 on crank.
So he showed you a dyno before or after the DP? what car does your friend have?

Also do you know for sure he took itto a dyno shop or did he use his logs to do a virtual dyno?

Reason I ask is here's a virtual dyno I just did off one of my logs and just deleted some items to not look like a virtual dyno but left second line up so you can see it's a log. By selecting a certain dyno and smoothing I can show my car at 306hp. on smoothing 3 if I do smoothing 1 is 330.

All dyno's are different, so you might go to one shop and be on a mustang and show 330 and go on a Dyno Jet and show 305 or one huge common thing is guy go to a shop and I say they want a 300hp car and the tweak the dyno to show you at 300 and you might be 260.

And the fact tons of guys on the forums have just simple stage 2 and we see cobs numbers 350 even at crank at stage 2 is about 50hp over what you real are at one a stage 2 at the crank and I'm being generous. I think your friend misled you is all.


 

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i would do a stage 2, just need a new downpipe. makes like 350hp easy
HAHAHAHAHAAHAHAA

ORLY? ... that's funny I'm stage II right now and there is NO WAY IN HELL its making 350hp.. AT THE CRANK maybe 280-285 on a ots map.. possibly 300 or so on a protune. 350? Ya dreamin, should wake up and apologize.
 

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AT THE CRANK maybe 280-285 on a ots map.. possibly 300 or so on a protune. 350? Ya dreamin, should wake up and apologize.
It's really a moot point but 350 crank hp, if you take into account for a 20% drivetrain loss (which is lower than most will say our 4WD system has), would be 280WHP, which is entirely possible based on tuner and dyno. A good stage 1 tune on a high reading dyno could get you 280WHP.
 

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I dont know what shop he took it in but i helped him put up the race downpipe. He showed me the dyno sheet it was 290 on wheels. Nd 350 on crank.
Figuring a 15% drivetrain loss 290 at the wheels is 340 at the crank. But that has to be the highest reading dyno in the world because you simply can't make that much power at stage 2.

Any recommendations for a downpipe?
What's your budget?

Do I need a new fuel pump as well?
No not until stage 3.
 

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It's really a moot point but 350 crank hp, if you take into account for a 20% drivetrain loss (which is lower than most will say our 4WD system has), would be 280WHP, which is entirely possible based on tuner and dyno. A good stage 1 tune on a high reading dyno could get you 280WHP.
that's what I'm saying. but 280 at the wheels on stage 1 is a % increase of DAMN! :)
 

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high reading dyno= not accurate numbers

dyno numbers really dont mean jack in the real world. Its only a mark to measure improvement from a starting point.. even then, the only real way to mark gain is with et and trap speed.

Regardless stageII alone will not yield 350 crank or wheel hp.

It's really a moot point but 350 crank hp, if you take into account for a 20% drivetrain loss (which is lower than most will say our 4WD system has), would be 280WHP, which is entirely possible based on tuner and dyno. A good stage 1 tune on a high reading dyno could get you 280WHP.
Nah dont think so, a good stageI will get you 280hp at the crank. StageI stretched as far as possible to stretch will not yield you more than 20-25hp gain. Torque you may gain more than that but stageI has some pretty defined limits.
 

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Nah dont think so, a good stageI will get you 280hp at the crank. StageI stretched as far as possible to stretch will not yield you more than 20-25hp gain. Torque you may gain more than that but stageI has some pretty defined limits.
COBB does come out in the 260's on their tune so I don't know, it's close but like you said, it really doesn't matter. If you had a FMIC, injectors, EBCS, and a host of other mods I think you could be very close to that number, even with a stock DP.
 
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