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Hi guys I have never owned an AWD car and coming from a RWD background (porsche) I wanted to know how it would do. I took the car to NJ motorsports park and while I was impressed with the car I felt like I was driving it like a RWD car and it didnt like that. I felt the car was understeering all over the track and the stock brake pads were terrible for track use (fade and overheating). I ran the car with "track mode" stability control setting with the diff on auto (-) setting. I know ill be doing pads and fluid for my next track day.

Id appreciate any tips on how to get this car around corners quicker. Any advice on tire pressures on on Dunlops? I had 32 all the way around and the pressure climbed to 38 after my session.

I also noticed my driver side front brake rotor was scuffed up more than the passenger. I really feel the driver side front brake got roasted. Is there any reason one side would be more worn than the other. The track is mostly right hand turns so i cant explain it away with the torque vectoring system.
 

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The auto (-) setting is going to make the car drive much more like a RWD car, but it still, simply put, is not one. Did you try out the standard "Auto" setting with the traction control in off mode?

The car naturally has a bit of understeer. Partially from the crappy dunlops, and partially because although the chassis is incredibly rigid, you're never going to get rid of all of it, but I have heard tires help.

You're right about the stock pads fading, I'm not swapping mine out until they're done, though. Contrary to your findings, my pass side rotor is worn more than the driver's side, who knows the cause.

It's definitely a car with multiple "Settings", and a car that you have to learn. You may be a set of pads and a rear sway bar away from finding it's the perfect car, or you may be one of the people that come out thinking it's over rated and going back to something else. Both are acceptable, hope this helps, and hope you enjoy your next track day!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The auto (-) setting is going to make the car drive much more like a RWD car, but it still, simply put, is not one. Did you try out the standard "Auto" setting with the traction control in off mode?

The car naturally has a bit of understeer. Partially from the crappy dunlops, and partially because although the chassis is incredibly rigid, you're never going to get rid of all of it, but I have heard tires help.

You're right about the stock pads fading, I'm not swapping mine out until they're done, though. Contrary to your findings, my pass side rotor is worn more than the driver's side, who knows the cause.

It's definitely a car with multiple "Settings", and a car that you have to learn. You may be a set of pads and a rear sway bar away from finding it's the perfect car, or you may be one of the people that come out thinking it's over rated and going back to something else. Both are acceptable, hope this helps, and hope you enjoy your next track day!
Thanks for the input ill try some different settings. When on the track have you tried to trail brake the car? I would turn in after braking then go 25%-50% throttle and floor it at the apex and the car would understeer doing this. It just feels so counter intuitive to feather the brakes prior to the apex while turning...Is that the way to go?
 

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Thanks for the input ill try some different settings. When on the track have you tried to trail brake the car? I would turn in after braking then go 25%-50% throttle and floor it at the apex and the car would understeer doing this. It just feels so counter intuitive to feather the brakes prior to the apex while turning...Is that the way to go?
Slow in - Fast out... trail braking is what's always worked best for me. The car has gobs of torque when it's in vaccuum, and will rarely slip a wheel. I've run my car really hard, and for me (personally), trail braking in, and giving it all it's got at the apex makes for an explosive exit with plenty of speed to be gained before having to go into the next turn.
 

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Trail braking is an important skill to learn in these cars.

The STI likes to brake late into corners and use the DCCD to claw its way out. The STI will naturally drive a bit like a FWD car with more grip.

That being said, there are a few things that should be considered:

1. As you have experienced, OEM pads are quite bad. Motortrend had them smoking during their review.
2. Subaru OEM alignment is very mild. Consider a more aggressive alignment to reduce understeer.
3. The OEM tires are OK, but certainly not track tires. A set of ZII SS or RE71Rs will go a long way.


Remember, understeer can be very fast but you have to learn how to drive and manage it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

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Zax, I've had my brake pads smoking as well, they are great for street driving, but awful for hard driving.
 
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