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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys I'm looking to get a 2017 wrx soon and was curious about how much some of you guys paid. I've test drove the car and been to a few dealers but didn't really trust what they were saying about the payments and felt like they were overcharging me so I was wondering if anyone could give me some tips on negotiating with them and what to look out for such as extra fees, unnecessary add ons, and so on. I just want the base model, not really tripping about the color too much, and want it in a manual.
 

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Worry less about buying at a payment and more about buying at a price. They can manipulate a loan where you pay huge amounts more than the vehicle is worth hitting the payment you have in mind.

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Payments are irrelevant.

Secure your own financing via your credit union. If you don't belong to a credit union, join one. If you can't join one, don't buy a car until you can join one, or pay in cash.

Never discuss payments with a car dealer. It's a waste of your money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Payments are irrelevant.

Secure your own financing via your credit union. If you don't belong to a credit union, join one. If you can't join one, don't buy a car until you can join one, or pay in cash.

Never discuss payments with a car dealer. It's a waste of your money.
Ok thats good to know thanks for the advice
 

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I just put in an order for a 2017 Limited CVT. Not exactly what you're looking for but to give an idea of price, the car I ordered retails for $33,015. I got a price of $30,431. Invoice I believe is at $31,075. So I got a good price I think. I did add on the sti exhaust, kicker speakers upgrade, and a few other small add ons. From what I've read, unless you plan on going aftermarket for the speakers, get the kicker package that's offered through Subaru or get the upgraded HK sound package.
 

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Test drive it hard...Make sure u like the power before u pull the trigger. If you are near the nj area buy a pre order from ramsey subaru. Demand prime rate...finance no more then 5 years
 

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Random thoughts . . .

Know what you should be paying monthly before you go to the dealership . . . i.e. if you put down X amount for the downpayment and the price is Y you should be paying Z. That said, as others have mentioned, never allow a dealership to get you a loan based on monthly payments.

Have financing in place . . . even if you don't use it. I've used on-line financing to get some good rates (plus this way you'll have an idea what you may be paying each month at X APR) . . . but that said, every time the dealership has been able to use one of their financing agencies to get me a better rate. Incidentally, credit unions often offer very good rates, but they can also be beat by the dealership's banking agencies.

Two companies that are pretty well respected for excellent prices and customer service here are Ramsey Subaru in NJ and Heuberger Subaru in CO. You may want to see what they can do . . . some folks report paying less even after shipping/flying costs have been factored in.

In my own case I found that buying locally worked out pretty well financial-wise . . . if I was willing to wait and order the car. I'm a patient man who doesn't need instant gratification so it worked out. What I did was call/e-mail all of the dealerships in my state, told them what I wanted in a car (pretty much you I was looking for a base model with little to no options) and asked for their selling price along with out-the-door price (tax, title, any other fees, etc.) I ended up going with the second lowest price . . . mainly because it was a dealership closer to me than the lowest price. It should be noted that I also make sure to compare the selling price against NADA, KBB, TrueCar.com, Edmunds, etc. to see if the price is in the ballpark. Incidentally I've done this with the last three cars I have purchased and it has been a relatively painless buying process as the actual trip to the dealership has averaged about an hour or so . . . maybe two hours tops . . . with none of the BS back-and-forth negotiating. I suppose I could try getting a few extra dollars at that point, but the truth is the dealership has to make money and if the price is fair I don't begrudge them. The truth is someone out there will always tell you about getting the better deal . . . but if you're happy and can afford the payments then all is good.

Now to answer your original question . . . 2015 WRX base model . . . $24,940 was the price. Here in Maine with the tax, title, doc fee and what have you the OTD price was $26,692. I made sure to look at both prices when comparing the quotes from dealerships and if I had a question as to what made the OTD price at one dealership so much higher at one place vs. another I would call -- and often find out that they had a much higher doc fee or some other BS fee in place. My current payment is $329.06/5 years . . . mainly because I was able to put $8,000 down and have a 2.14% interest rate on the loan. Again . . . I am sure other folks may have done better or been better negotiators, but my method worked for me and I am happy with the financial arrangement.
 

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Don't pay more than invoice. I got my 2017 $150 below, which was about $2k off MSRP. They had 4 of them on the lot.
 

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WRX's are in a high demand, so typically you won't be able to get a great deal on what is in stock. Putting an order in is the best way to go. I ordered my 2016 Limited (No options or accessories) for $27,900. Sticker was $31,190. I went through the Fleet Manager, and he gave me that price, with no negotiation. It was delivered with 4 miles on the ODO, and plastic Wrap still attached. It sucks waiting the 3 months on a order, but is the best way to get an unmolested wrx for a great price.
 

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Payments are irrelevant.

Secure your own financing via your credit union. If you don't belong to a credit union, join one. If you can't join one, don't buy a car until you can join one, or pay in cash.

Never discuss payments with a car dealer. It's a waste of your money.
This^. When I first went to buy my sti I had about 10K to put down and a over 740 credit rating but the dealership told me the best they could do was 15% interest and I would never find another place to get a loan for 26k. I laughed and went to a local credit union who gave me the loan at 4% initially and 3% after refinancing. Goto a credit union and save yourself money and time.
 

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I saw the Subaru of grapevine has some deals going on right now till the end of the month. Of course its subject to terms and conditions but if you meet the requirements then have some for 1500 off for base models.
 

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I'm meticulous about getting the best price for anything so I made a spreadsheet of all the dealership prices around me. A lot of them gave me the runaround over the phone, despite stating exactly which options/color I'm looking for. I'm in the process of purchasing from Heuberger. While their price is great, working with Clint has seemed straightforward and without the typical salesman BS I've encountered with CA dealerships. I just want to avoid that, seeing that I've received weird treatment being a woman.
I would second the credit union. I am able to get approved for approximately a 26k loan for around 1.59% interest. They work for you because your funds are already with them. I went in person and was able to talk the rate down down from 1.89%. Note that they looked at my FICO.
Good luck! And yes, don't rush! I am patient and mine is coming in late February/early March.


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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Random thoughts . . .

Know what you should be paying monthly before you go to the dealership . . . i.e. if you put down X amount for the downpayment and the price is Y you should be paying Z. That said, as others have mentioned, never allow a dealership to get you a loan based on monthly payments.

Have financing in place . . . even if you don't use it. I've used on-line financing to get some good rates (plus this way you'll have an idea what you may be paying each month at X APR) . . . but that said, every time the dealership has been able to use one of their financing agencies to get me a better rate. Incidentally, credit unions often offer very good rates, but they can also be beat by the dealership's banking agencies.

Two companies that are pretty well respected for excellent prices and customer service here are Ramsey Subaru in NJ and Heuberger Subaru in CO. You may want to see what they can do . . . some folks report paying less even after shipping/flying costs have been factored in.

In my own case I found that buying locally worked out pretty well financial-wise . . . if I was willing to wait and order the car. I'm a patient man who doesn't need instant gratification so it worked out. What I did was call/e-mail all of the dealerships in my state, told them what I wanted in a car (pretty much you I was looking for a base model with little to no options) and asked for their selling price along with out-the-door price (tax, title, any other fees, etc.) I ended up going with the second lowest price . . . mainly because it was a dealership closer to me than the lowest price. It should be noted that I also make sure to compare the selling price against NADA, KBB, TrueCar.com, Edmunds, etc. to see if the price is in the ballpark. Incidentally I've done this with the last three cars I have purchased and it has been a relatively painless buying process as the actual trip to the dealership has averaged about an hour or so . . . maybe two hours tops . . . with none of the BS back-and-forth negotiating. I suppose I could try getting a few extra dollars at that point, but the truth is the dealership has to make money and if the price is fair I don't begrudge them. The truth is someone out there will always tell you about getting the better deal . . . but if you're happy and can afford the payments then all is good.

Now to answer your original question . . . 2015 WRX base model . . . $24,940 was the price. Here in Maine with the tax, title, doc fee and what have you the OTD price was $26,692. I made sure to look at both prices when comparing the quotes from dealerships and if I had a question as to what made the OTD price at one dealership so much higher at one place vs. another I would call -- and often find out that they had a much higher doc fee or some other BS fee in place. My current payment is $329.06/5 years . . . mainly because I was able to put $8,000 down and have a 2.14% interest rate on the loan. Again . . . I am sure other folks may have done better or been better negotiators, but my method worked for me and I am happy with the financial arrangement.
I appreciate all the help man that's a lot of good information to know
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hey thanks to everyone for giving me your input I will take it all into consideration whenever I am ready to purchase my wrx.
 
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