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Discussion Starter #1
So as some of you may already know, my car will be ready to be picked up from the body shop today or tomorrow. When it gets home, it will be 2k miles away from the 7k mile interval of oil changes that the dealership put a sticker on my window for. After reading many posts on this site, AND getting a blown motor due to no oil, I'm deciding wether to go to that dealership, or try and perform my first oil change. I've heard it was very easy, but I'm still skeptical. I'm a 17 y.o. kid who would be performing this in his garage, I would first need to go to the auto store nearby for some jacks, or those ramps; Maybe i can even find some 2x4's downstairs I can pull up on for height. But any suggestions or advice on how this is done would be great, also, what parts/tools I will need.
 

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I don't recommend crawling under a car supported by 2 x 4's. Jackstands are cheap enough. Changing your oil is easy, theres youtube videos that show how to do it.
 

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I don't let anybody change my oil but me. That way I know things are done properly, or if something goes wrong I have nobody to blame but myself. Really, it's the easiest thing to learn to do and perform on these cars.

Definitely check out the YouTube videos suggested by maus, and I would absolutely suggest a jack and jackstands, simple because ramps limit you to the work you can do on the vehicle (no suspension or wheel/tire work can be done on ramps). If you expect to only do basic maintenence, ramps will do just fine for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Have you ever considered Race Ramps?
Are those the black ramps I would buy at autozone?

I don't recommend crawling under a car supported by 2 x 4's. Jackstands are cheap enough. Changing your oil is easy, theres youtube videos that show how to do it.
I can't disagree with you.

I don't let anybody change my oil but me. That way I know things are done properly, or if something goes wrong I have nobody to blame but myself. Really, it's the easiest thing to learn to do and perform on these cars.

Definitely check out the YouTube videos suggested by maus, and I would absolutely suggest a jack and jackstands, simple because ramps limit you to the work you can do on the vehicle (no suspension or wheel/tire work can be done on ramps). If you expect to only do basic maintenence, ramps will do just fine for you.
Okay, all I need is the oil, an oil filter, and a oil drip pan?
 

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Okay, all I need is the oil, an oil filter, and a oil drip pan?
Oil, filter, drain plug gasket, drip pan, funnel and make sure you have the tools necessary to remove the drain bolt (17mm wrench would suffice) and what is likely to be a stuck on oil filter since dealerships and other places enjoy tightening the damn things down MUCH more than they need to.
 

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you can get the filter(which comes with a new crush ring for the plug bolt) at any local subaru dealership: OEM or fail.

Make sure you have the correct amount of full synthetic oil in the correct weight (i believe ours are 5w-30). Im going to be using Mobil1, but asking about oil brand around here is like arguing politics or abortion.

There are plenty of videos, even wrx based so everything is in the same place, on youtube. You're also going to need a screwdriver to remove the splash guard under the engine.

I'm doing this today, first one myself as well. I like to be well read on this stuff before embarking on new adventures.:D
 

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If you don't have a filter wrench yet, you can jam a screwdriver through the filter to get some leverage on it and spin it off. It comes reaaaally tight from the factory. After hating the first-time filter removal, I got this Amazon.com: Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool: Automotive. When doing it myself, I only screw it on hand tight anyway.

I got a 6 pack of blue oil filters from a local dealer. They matched the price here Subaru Oil Filters & Washers - 6 Pack

I used Castrol full synthetic Titanium 5w-30. Many will recommend Rotella T6, 5w-40. I will use that after I render my powertrain warranty useless with mods. Walmart usually has the cheapest oil prices.

If you are approaching 7k miles on your original oil, do it NOW! My oil was dirtier than expected at 1,200 miles, with plenty of metal flecks in there too.
 

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Also, buying yourself a decent oil drip tray and ramps will save you tons of money in the long run versus getting synth. oil changes at a dealer or shop. Also, the ramps can be used for future mods, like exhaust, shift bushings, steering rack bushings, the list goes on and on! Good luck. There are tons of answers to oil change FAQs on this forum

EDIT: Also pick up a sealable oil container to put the used oil in for taking it to a facility (Pep-Boys, some service stations) for PROPER disposal. Your users manual gives you the basic procedure for changing the oil. You'll need a metric socket set too..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'll be performing this today or tomorrow when I get the car back. I need to save up some cash for those race ramps. I dont have 200 to spend in the next day or so as I'm only a junior in highschool haha. I believe i may have jacks at home. I need to double check
 

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Also, the ramps can be used for future mods, like exhaust, shift bushings, steering rack bushings, the list goes on and on!
One of the biggest is Sway bars. They need to be positioned and torqued while the suspension is under load so that it gets aligned properly.
 

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I'll be performing this today or tomorrow when I get the car back. I need to save up some cash for those race ramps. I dont have 200 to spend in the next day or so as I'm only a junior in highschool haha. I believe i may have jacks at home. I need to double check
I think my rhino ramps were 70 at pep boys
 

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Really? And all these ramps are sloped so that we won't scrap our bumpers, or that depends on the make and model of the ramp?
Ramps = Sloped surface, ha. But, yes you won't scrape without a lip kit.
 

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wait the 7500 miles that the dealer wants.

If you're not heavily modified, and you use the dealership's oil recommendations... then 7500 is plenty fine. You're just throwing away money.

Also, if you're in warranty, I'd recommend sticking with the Subaru synthetic oil.
 

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wait the 7500 miles that the dealer wants.

If you're not heavily modified, and you use the dealership's oil recommendations... then 7500 is plenty fine. You're just throwing away money.
In addition to Sinister's post. You should regularly check your oil level. Our cars consume some oil. When level get to the low tick, top off to full which should be around a quart. I run 7500 mile intervals and do about 70% highway and 30% city driving. My lab results seem to back up the new manual regarding achievable 7500 mile cycles with quality synthetic oils.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
wait the 7500 miles that the dealer wants.

If you're not heavily modified, and you use the dealership's oil recommendations... then 7500 is plenty fine. You're just throwing away money.

Also, if you're in warranty, I'd recommend sticking with the Subaru synthetic oil.
I do not have any performance mods, so I guess waiting the 7.5k shouldn't hurt. I do check my oil every morning before I leave for school (on weekends I dont check it unless I'm topping off wiper fluid or something of the sort. Now even though I'm stock, I still do get on it sometimes goin down the highway, but diffidently don't exceed what the car can handle.
 

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So every 7500 miles is the interval ? What about time? I put hardly any miles on my car because I live real close to work and everywhere else I go. Some years I only put 6k miles on her. Should you change oil after 6 months reardless of mileage ?
 
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