The Truth vs. The Myth of Nitrous Oxide

Platinum,

I see we are back on the pros / cons of N20.. I'm going to through my 2 cents in.. Hope you don't mind..

"A recent BS flag by one of our members has led me to realize that most of us don't know jack about "the juice." Poor clueless saps see TF&TF and immediately think, "I need NOS." This is some of the stupidest thinking in high performance four cylinders. Four cylinders of the high performance variety make their power one of three ways: high compression, turbocharging, or supercharging. None of these three are compatible and shouldn't be used at the same time."

I personaly believe there are 4 ways to build a motor wheather it be 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 or even 5 cyl motors..

NA = Big cam, great flowing heads
Blower motor = supper charger
Turbo = self explanatory
N20 = Nice cold condenced Oxygen

My personal belief is no one has really ventured into the only N20 for 4 cyl motors.. Your have to have a very strong bottom end for big shots of N20. The motors have to be able to withstand a lot of heat, the cam has to be ground for the application, and the exhaust has to flow.. Most big shot N20 motors are forged internal motors. With the smaller shots 100-150 (V8's thats small) you don't need forged motors but it is nice..

How many forged 4 cyl motors are out there?
How many 4 cyl motors have been built for N20 specificaly?

Like I mentioned before, I don't think people have tried to build a N20 only 4 cyl..



"Now, once you have all the power that your built up four cylinder drag motor can make and you still aren't satisfied, you add some laughing gas, that's right N2O."

Not the case at all.. See by building a motor by the above stated you should be designing it for your specific application. Yes N20 can be an aid to your other means of HP but you should not relie on it to boost you farther. In all reality you could be setting yourself for disaster. Too much timing in a NA motor adding N20 is an issue, not enough fuel system is another issue for all of the above, increase cyl pressure is a huge problem for turbo and blown cars as well as increased heat.. As you can see, N20 mixed with others can be a disater.. It is better to use it to aid your slow spooling turbo..



"In my expert opinion as a mechanical engineer, the only safe nitrous is wet nitrous. This system consists of a fuel/nitrous MIXED injection immediately above the intake valve of each cylinder. The N2O can also be introduced into the fuel system using the stock fuel system, as long as the injectors are big enough and the static fuel pressure is high enough. If you are 17 years old and think a dry nitrous system is your ticket to a 12 second daily driver, you WILL have to rebuild your motor if you spray even twice a month."

Not true.. Dry systems are very safe as long as your fuel system is up to it.. You wouldn't use 28# injectors on a 500rwhp car would you? Think of it that way. If your planning on a 100 shot plan on increasing your fuel system wheather it be dry or wet.

In all reality, I could say wet is more unsafe than dry.. New vehicle intake systems are designed to cary air, not fuel.. By putting fuel through an intake, just think of what would be at risk with a back fire. Thats right, your whole intake and posibly your top end..

Dry is much more safe if you have the fuel system to support it.

That it.. I'm going on vacation.. Take it easy..

Re: WET or DRY?

206WRX_GDA said:

Hmm, sorry for the confusion. I thought that the dry application only has only one means of injection, thru the intake. And wet application injected gas into each cylinder. So that's one line via dry application vs. 4 (assuming it's a 4 banger) via wet, at least I thought that's how it worked. I never said anything about a "bigger" injector. My email says "extra"...

MY02 Cents...

B

Click to expand...

A little more on this for you.. I think you are still a little confused, but you at least seem to want to understand. Lets hope I can explain it real good this time..


Here are the basics..

Dry N20 systems only spray N20 and rely on your injectors / fuel pump to supply the added fuel needed. With this type of system you need to make sure your fuel pump and injectors are capable of supplying the amount of extra fuel needed.

Wet N20 systems supply both N20 and fuel in some way. I personally only know of 3 different ways to do this.

1) The 2 solenoid wet system.. This is the most standard way It uses 2 solenoids. One controls the N20 and the other splices into your stock fuel line, from there it runs to your intake system behind your MAF.

The way this works is when you arm the system you are now arming 1 relay that controls 2 solenoids. When you press your button at WOT the relay opens both solenoids. This flows the N20 and fuel. Your added fuel now runs through your air intake system along with your N20 and air from your air box.

The problem with this wet system is today’s intakes were not designed to flow fuel because of fuel injection. With a back fire you could be finding yourself buying a new intake for your car.

2) Direct port system.. This is what you were describing. This system supplies fuel to each cylinder with its own fuel line under the injector.

This one works just like the one described above but you don’t run the risk that comes with the above on backfires and so forth due to the fuel being supplied at the cylinder and not through the intake.

3) This one is brand new put out by NOS.. They refer to it as the NOSzle system. I don’t know a lot about it as I have never seen it in person. I think it is there version of a direct port system.



People typicaly go with the first wet one I described due to the cost of the other wet systems.


I hope that helps.. I didn’t mean to sound like a dick earlier, it just frustrates me when people talk about something acting as they know about it and don’t and they don’t even take the time to learn about it..