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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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Yep, it is an oblong bolt, or something like that. Basically, if you turn it the bolt offsets the strut and moves the wheel slightly. You set the bolt where it needs to be and then lock it down with the nut on the other side.

That is a piss poor description, I'd just have to show you.

However, I wouldn't recommend monkying with it unless you have some sort of gauge. You could get some unpredictable handling characteristiques. If you do decide to mess with it, use some white out or a marker to mark a line on the bolt and the strut so you can line it back up semi-close to the original setting.

edit: I just took a look at that link. very good description of what to do. it actually shows the camber boltt marked with paint so it can be lined back up.

Another little tidbit that will help that I learned from some experienced people.....You don't need spring compressors for the stock springs, they arent under too much pressure. Just back the bolt off until it gets close to the end of the threads and then lay the assembly on its side and take it all the way off.. This is of course, if you have an impact gun.

THE BOLTS IN THE REAR STRUTS ARE TORQUED TO HELL AND BACK....BE PREPARED TO CURSE THEM AS YOU TRY TO BREAK THEM LOOSE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ah thanks.

Wow I don't see how that bolt could fix my camber. I dropped the front about 2 inches with my teins. The front wheels look like this /----\

Is there another way to adjust it in conjunction with the higher bolt on the shock? I just can't see that one bolt fixing it. Maybe my mind just doesnt' understand it at all.
 

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kit99bar said:
ah thanks.

Wow I don't see how that bolt could fix my camber. I dropped the front about 2 inches with my teins. The front wheels look like this /----\

Is there another way to adjust it in conjunction with the higher bolt on the shock? I just can't see that one bolt fixing it. Maybe my mind just doesnt' understand it at all.
You need to adjust the caster/camber at the top of the strut as well.

-Jim
 

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Have the alignment shop adjust the camber from the camber bolts first and give you a readout. If you don't like the reading and want to adjust it more, then use the camber plates on the coilovers. Make sure the camber plates are set to 0 when you first start off the alignment as well.

I dropped mine 2" in the front and my camber was fine with adjustments from the stock camber bolts only. You can run up to -1.5~1.7 without any issues up front. Most people ask for as much front camber as possible without touching the front camber plates. The most important thing is to make sure you're pretty even on both sides.

Calvin
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
awesome I get it guys :)

So I'll have them do the front bolts then use the Tein top camber adjustments.

thanks!

Now to get that passenger CV boot fixed and this alignment and it's kick butt time again :)
 

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/ \ that's the way you want your front tires to look-that's negative camber and static negative camber will aid in keeping a large contact patch when turning. I agree w/ cnk -1.5 is not excessive, particularly if your running 0 toe-performance w/o extra tire wear. I'm running -2.0 w/ no ill effects (0 toe). I also rotate my tires every 3000 miles-good habit to get into.

cnk also makes a good point on cross camber, make sure the alignment shop gets it within .1 side to side, accept no less.

Big Sky
 
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