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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone... I thought I'd start a database of repairs at what mileage owners have performed on their Subbies... Please include current mileage with your year and model... List any unresolved issues or anything else you feel should be mentioned...

2006 Subaru Impreza WRX - 62,XXX

Repairs:

Secondary Air Pump @ 58,XXX
Resolution- Removed system, installed blocking plates, and deleted the DTC codes

Misfire in cylinder 4 @ 61,xxx
changed spark plug, swapped coil packs around, dealer checked out injector, checked compression
none of which were the cause, next is regrounding the coil pack... Turned out to be a damaged piston and scored cylinder wall

Major misfire in cylinder 3 @ 61,xxx
after compression test I put it back together in a hurry and cracked the spark plug

Engine replaced @ 62,xxx
installed new shortblock, rebuilt/resurfaced the heads and valvetrain, full gaskets and seal replacement, installed timing belt kit

Clutch Replaced @ 62,xxx
new clutch disc, oem flywheel, replaced throwout bearing, bled the system

Ac and alternator belts replaced @ 68,xxx
wasn't needed badly just thought it should be replaced due to a few small cracks in the bottom of them...

Front and rear breaks replaced @ 79,xxx
replaced break pads, turned rotors, adjusted emergency break cable...

replaced front bumper cover @ 82,xxx
bought sliders, bumper cover, had it painted and installed. (It looks so much better!)

Maintenance:
oil changes every 3,500 miles
brakes replaced by dealer @ 53,xxx
tires bfgoodrich Gforce 225/45/ZR17 @ 54,xxx
Spark plugs replaced @ 55,xxx
Compresstion test done at 61,xxx
Tires replaced again @ 61,xxx toyo proxes 4 225/45/zr17 (damn curb)
new clutch kit @ 62,xxx
Timing belt kit @62,xxx

Unresolved issues
My son has kicked the top part of my center counsel and it became unscrewed.
Pasanger side skirt has fallen off, need to buy some new plastic plugs to reattach it to the underside of the car.
Trunk key latch clip has slid out, need to locate the clip and put it back on.
driver's seat rear adjustment leaver heas became unscrewed, I need to slide the plastic cover back on and screw it back on to prevent it from falling off again.
 

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2002 Subaru Impreza WRX - 110K

Radiator: 6K, 90K
Gearbox output shaft bearing: 30K
ABS controller: 44K (optional recall by SOA)
Clutch set: 30K (recall by SOA)
Front right inner CV joint boot: 110K; replaced outer boot also while axle was apart
Battery: 50K, 88K
Battery retainer: 109K due to corrosion
Brake pads: 95K rear, 109K front
Tyres: Bridgestone RE92, 40K; Avon M500 205/55/16 75K; Goodyear F1 GS-D3 225/50/16 still on at 110K
Turbo overflow coolant supply hose clamp: 50K
Upper, lower radiator hoses: 109K
Small hose to water pump external connection plus clamps: 109K
9007 bulbs: 50K, 80K
Clearance markers within bugeyes shorted and/or burnt since 2004, now left off since then
Side clearance marker (on wing) burnt out on passenger side at 75K; lens cracked when replacing (due to excellent skills)
Fog lamp (cracked glass): 20K
Accessory belts: 90K (noise)
MAF cleaned due to CEL on two separate occasions; second time was after huge wildfire
A/C hose, high pressure side, leaking via pinhole since 95K
Driver's carpet mat retainer clip dislodged repeatedly, since new
Coolant hose from water pump (the lower small one): 109K
Inner front axle boot seeping on driver side now. 115K
Clutch pedal cruise control switch plastic grommet on pedal arm: 116K
Thermostat housing o-ring: 116K (don't use sealant, just use the factory o-ring style gasket and torque the bolts).
THermostat housing itself: 119K. Re-used o-ring from 116K. The fitting for the hose on the thermostat housing was pitted and did not seal properly. Had the change the housing itself. New housing working fine so far.

Issues:
Paint is metallic black swirl since new
Windscreen washer reservoir cap's retainer snapped
Driver floor mat torn at anchor point
Anchor point no longer attaches securely to carpet
Fabric on rear seats unsuitable for SoCal; faded from sun. Visible when seat belts are moved (tan lines).
Occasional electric problems -- radio dead for one evening, not repeated, and aux power dead for one drive, not repeated.
 

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3,856 Posts
2006 Impreza WRX TR:

Currently 93xxx miles
Oil Changed every 4500 miles at the latest
Spark Plugs: 60k
Transmission and Rear Diff Oils at 30k, 60k, and this weekend at 93k
Brake Discs: 60k
Brake Pads: 60k, 80k, and 90k, 80k was for more track oriented pads, 90k was for even more track oriented pads.
Brake Fluid: 85k (was overdue on that one)
Drive Belts: 85k
Next up: Coolant flush.

Tires replaced at 40k to Khumo Ecsta SPTs, 75k to Falken Ziex ZE912s, 85k to Falken Azenis RT-615s, and at 93k to Falken Ziex ZE502s. Next up are Toyo Proxes R1Rs or Dunlop Direza Star Specs in the spring.

Headlight bulbs replaced once per year. Passenger side ALWAYs goes out before drivers side, warranting complete replacement of bulbs. Currently using H7 Osram Ralleye 65W bulbs.

Issues:
Clutch is beginning to show signs of wear. Throw out bearing has made noise since 60k, which is a common problem. Will likely be doing a complete clutch job in the spring.

Windshield has allowed air movement since installation. This is my 4th windshield in 5 years, I believe it was installed improperly causing a small crack where air can move. This is a minor sound inconvenience.

Really hates the friggid cold. In sub 20* weather it doesn't enjoy running when not at operating temperature and there is a small amount of gear noise on deceleration, I believe a changing of my gear oil will correct this to some degree. When it's greater than freezing though, it runs and drives beautifully without any issues.

Elective replacement:
Transmission Mount at 80k

I'd like to note that I'm on year 5 with my WRX with the original battery and all accessories, AC still works beautifully. Car runs like a champ with a stage 1 tune, no major issues what-so-ever, and it is used for occasional SCCA events. No major loss in oil between changes, maybe 1/4 quart at most.
 

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2005 WRX STI - 70K

Bridgestone Blizzak REVO1s - 25K
Routine maintenance - 30K / 60K
Falken RT-615s (replace crappy A/S tires from dealership) - 35K
ACDelco Brake Pads (OE wore out) - 40K
New license plate lights (OE burnt out) - 45K
Rust bubbles on roof (no idea on cause, dealership denied claim) - 50K
New various body panels and four new wheels (accident) - 55K
Hankook Ventus V12 Evo (RT-615s corded) - 60K
New windshield (crack) - 60K
New rear bumper (melted by previous owner near exhaust) - 60K
A/C drain line replaced with metal pipe (OE melted) - 65K
 

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2004 Subaru Impreza WRX - 61K

Maintenance:
Oil/Filter Change Every ~4K
30K Service done myself
60K Service done myself (except dealer did spark plugs)
Tire rotation & balance every ~8K
Coolant change beginning of every summer
Clean MAF and intake filter (Cobb SF) twice a year

Repairs:
Seatbelt chirp since I got the car, fixed using tape method
Battery at ~25K (strange corrosion problem...)
Leaky connection with an AC line, replaced entire line at ~35K
License plate bulb out at ~55K
Defective front O2 sensor threw a CEL, replaced at 41K

Issues:
Annoying door dings from people who aren't careful or considerate
It seems like I discover a new rattle every week
Clutch is sometimes noisy when depressed, probably a bearing... still functions 100%
Reverse is tricky to shift into sometimes
The unique wrx pop, pip, blurble, and grumble noises; you know what I mean...
 

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Just bumping this up with some information:

Changed my gear fluid again at about 94k.

If you have the opportunity to use Amsoil gear oil in your trans, skip it. It's the absolute worst trans fluid I have ever used in any of my vehicles. Going to change it out soon to Subaru fluid.

Amsoil will never see another cent of my money.
 

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What issues did you see with Amsoil? I prefer Subaru Extra-S. Can't go wrong with it.
 

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What issues did you see with Amsoil? I prefer Subaru Extra-S. Can't go wrong with it.
Difficulty getting into first across all spectrums of driving unless absolutely stopped, usually I can go into first below 20 MPH if I wish (have only needed that a couple times at autocross) and do so regularly when below 10MPH, but with this fluid and only after changing to it, has it been a problem. Refuses to go into second gear when cold. When warm, second, third, and 4th are notchy, 3rd occasionally grinding. Have to wait a moment to rev match downshift so that the gears have time to slide into place.

It's just bad all around. Extra-S is the fluid I have in mind. Uncle Scottys cocktail was quite good, Subaru fluid just below that, strict Redline just below that, and Amsoil a very far and distant last place.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Difficulty getting into first across all spectrums of driving unless absolutely stopped, usually I can go into first below 20 MPH if I wish (have only needed that a couple times at autocross) and do so regularly when below 10MPH, but with this fluid and only after changing to it, has it been a problem. Refuses to go into second gear when cold. When warm, second, third, and 4th are notchy, 3rd occasionally grinding. Have to wait a moment to rev match downshift so that the gears have time to slide into place.

It's just bad all around. Extra-S is the fluid I have in mind. Uncle Scottys cocktail was quite good, Subaru fluid just below that, strict Redline just below that, and Amsoil a very far and distant last place.
Does anyone have any opinions about Subaru's extra-S versus Uncle Scotty's Cocktail?
 

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Does anyone have any opinions about Subaru's extra-S versus Uncle Scotty's Cocktail?
Yes, I have one. I'd prefer a product manufactured under specific guidelines set by the auto maker. Since the auto maker has dealers that support a sizable fleet worldwide at least during the warranty period, such a product has a good chance of working as intended for the specified service interval.
 

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Extra S is great. Absolutely wonderful. Get it.

Also Scotty's cocktail breaks down extremely fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah... I figured that the Extra-S would be the better of the 2... I have that in there at the moment and it shifts silky smooth... I've heard good and bad about USC, but didn't know which one to listen too... Which one holds up better under shock and heat?
 

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2002 WRX Wagon
144,500 miles as of 5/5/2011

-Oil changes every 3,500 miles at the most
-New radiator replaced by purchasing dealer @ 117,xxx
-Front brakes replaced by purchasing dealer @ 117,xxx
-Passenger side lower control arm replaced at dealers expense @ 117,xxx after two failed alignment attempts. (Les Schwab told me the frame was bent but it was just the lower control arm due to an accident prior to my purchasing it.)
-Spark plugs (NGK iridium) replaced @ 119,xxx
-New Excedy clutch/ACT streetlite flywheel/pressure plate/throwout bearing @ 138,xxx (No CELs with the streetlite flywheel)

More details to come. I have all the maintenance I've done on it since purchasing 3/30/2010 with 117,xxx miles on it recorded in a book. I'll post more later.
 

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Does anyone have any opinions about Subaru's extra-S versus Uncle Scotty's Cocktail?
I changed my trans and rear diff fluid with Extra-S last fall. Runs great. It still has the typical difficulties engaging first above 10mph but I hardly ever need to do that anyways. Reverse is still a little difficult at times too. Maybe that's because it has over 144,5xx miles and, to my knowledge, has never been rebuilt.
 

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2006 WRX Ltd 99k km

I'll just list "unexpected" maintenance that I've had to do.
-fuel pump @ ~82k km (51k miles); seems to be common with 06/07 MY
-Front cv shaft @ 98k km (61 k miles)
 

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center carrier bushing makes rattling sound at WOT
It took me a few times under the car to figure out that I had a loose bolt that holds the carrier bearing bracket to the under body. Wasn't apparent in the multitude of times I checked the bearing itself for play, but the 1/4" of play in the bracket was enough to get the drive shaft shaking under WOT, low rpm. Might be worth checking if you haven't already. I had toyed with the idea of filling the void between the rubber and bearing race with Window Weld prior to that.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It took me a few times under the car to figure out that I had a loose bolt that holds the carrier bearing bracket to the under body. Wasn't apparent in the multitude of times I checked the bearing itself for play, but the 1/4" of play in the bracket was enough to get the drive shaft shaking under WOT, low rpm. Might be worth checking if you haven't already. I had toyed with the idea of filling the void between the rubber and bearing race with Window Weld prior to that.
Hmm... interesting.... I'll have to check that out... the dealer didn't really check it too much, but recommended I replace the whole driveline :screwy: cause its a nonserviceable item... thank you for the tip as well as the contribution to the database...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I changed my trans and rear diff fluid with Extra-S last fall. Runs great. It still has the typical difficulties engaging first above 10mph but I hardly ever need to do that anyways. Reverse is still a little difficult at times too. Maybe that's because it has over 144,5xx miles and, to my knowledge, has never been rebuilt.
Yeah... I'm going ti have to change mine out again here pretty soon and I think I'm going to stick with the extra-s... I can usually get into first around 15mph...
 

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Hmm... interesting.... I'll have to check that out... the dealer didn't really check it too much, but recommended I replace the whole driveline :screwy: cause its a nonserviceable item... thank you for the tip as well as the contribution to the database...
Just another thought, some people (i.e. the previous owner of my car) manage to put one of the bushings back on upside down as well, this is why the bolt was loose. It's pretty obvious when you take a close look at it if one is upside down; one half of the bushing is supposed to point up, the other points down. I think it's absolutely ridiculous that you can buy a carrier bearing for these bloody shafts.
 

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i read here that most of you are changing your oil around 3500-4500. the dealer is recommending 7500 on synthetic with my 2011. i was thinking of doing it every 5k. are you guy's running synthetic?
 
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